Installed FCSP, Generator Inlet, MTS, Subpanel, Conduit, and my entire body hurts.

[Runaway Tractor]

I noticed the gen plug in your 1st picture is different than what's connected to your truck in a later picture - did you swap out the cable?

I had temporarily put a 14-50P end on the cable to use it for something else a few months ago. Put the 30 amp twist lock back on when I was ready to start using it again.

Sponsored

 

[Danface]

AWESOME!

 

[StaggerLee]

@Runaway Tractor, Curious for your thoughts on that Reliance inlet box. Some of the online reviews knock it for being too skinny, forcing wires inside to bend a lot. But it looks heavy duty enough...

 

[Runaway Tractor]

@Runaway Tractor, Curious for your thoughts on that Reliance inlet box. Some of the online reviews knock it for being too skinny, forcing wires inside to bend a lot. But it looks heavy duty enough...

Every device sucks when terminating rather stiff large gauge wires in a box. Annoying, yes. Difficult or impossible, no. Especially if you use #10 wire, and don't needlessly oversize it.

 

[chl]

For the code nazis, close your eyes for 30 seconds. The ground is disconnected where the generator cable enters the subpanel. This prevents the truck's GFCI protection from tripping due to the house's ground-neutral bond. The truck and the cable are protected by the truck's ground and GFCI. The subpanel onward are protected by the house's ground-neutral bond as it always is. It is perfectly safe, there is absolutely no loss of protection of any kind anywhere. If you're going to make 2 page long rambling comment about how this is wrong, save your keystrokes please.

Not many keystrokes required - using copy and paste for a common and dangerous wiring error.

Neutral is grounded at two places - not safe, not code, good luck, better have life insurance and liability insurance.

If you don't know why that is dangerous and think it is safe, well, that is why we have the NEC, and licensing of electricians, and local building codes, geeze Louise, and "code Nazi's.'

OTHERS READING THIS - DO WHAT THE OP DID AT YOUR PERIL.

-----
Per Article 250.142, the neutral to ground connection is allowed on the supply side or within the enclosure of the AC service disconnecting means. This connection is also allowed at separately derived systems.

If the grounded conductor is grounded again on the load side of the service, the connection between the grounded conductor and the EGC on the load side of the service places the EGC in a parallel circuit path with the grounded conductor [NOTE: translation the NEUTRAL is the grounded conductor - you created a parallel path for return current through the earth].

Another issue that can arise out of multiple bonding locations is the risk the grounded conductor being disconnected on the line side of the service.

This could cause the EGC and all conductive parts connected to it to become energized because the conductive path back to the source that would normally allow the overcurrent device to trip is not connected.

In this case, the potential to ground of any exposed metal parts can be raised to line voltage, which can result in arcing and severe shock hazard.
---

Read up on the NEC requirements for generators, too (simple summary in pdf form attached). The Lightning is a "separately derived system" and one should use a neutral switching transfer switch (a mere $400 item) to avoid the GFCI trip instead of having the neutral grounded in two places and disconnecting the ground wire.

Better yet, have an experienced electrician do the install and a building inspector check it for code compliance so nobody get electrocuted.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Neutral is grounded at two places - not safe, not code, good luck, better have life insurance and liability insurance.

No it isn't. There is only one bond, and it's the one in my panel. Fault current does exactly what it would do on main power. Every breaker in the house will trip just like it normally would. Every GFCI and AFCI will work like normal. Literally NOTHING will operate or behave any different than it did 5 minutes ago. And the truck's built in protection will do exactly what it is supposed to do.

You're literally the person I didn't want to make some ridiculous comment about how this perfectly safe configuration is going to kill me and everyone else. You're wrong.

Your long rambling reply has no useful purpose. We've had this debate beforevin other threads. And every time you fail to identify any actual danger. NONE. You just ramble about code compliance in this situation where it is not practical due to the truck's design. Please don't try to ruin this thread like you do all the others.

 

[Maquis]

No it isn't. There is only one bond, and it's the one in my panel. Fault current does exactly what it would do on main power. Every breaker in the house will trip just like it normally would. Every GFCI and AFCI will work like normal. Literally NOTHING will operate or behave any different than it did 5 minutes ago. And the truck's built in protection will do exactly what it is supposed to do.

You're literally the person I didn't want to make some ridiculous comment about how this perfectly safe configuration is going to kill me and everyone else. You're wrong.

Your long rambling reply has no useful purpose. We've had this debate beforevin other threads. And every time you fail to identify any actual danger. NONE. You just ramble about code compliance in this situation where it is not practical due to the truck's design. Please don't try to ruin this thread like you do all the others.

There’s a handy “ignore” feature on this forum to filter out his AI-generated responses.

 

[The Weatherman]

What @Maquis said.

 

[v2h8484]

It's actually the relays, not the lugs. The FCSP relays get warmer than anything else.

I was just going by the photo captions. Don't know how hot it gets in the summer where you are but it seems possible the relay temps could get close to or exceed the wiring rating.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

I was just going by the photo captions. Don't know how hot it gets in the summer where you are but it seems possible the relay temps could get close to or exceed the wiring rating.

In my garage in the hottest of the summer it may be 80ish. Outdoor it could be 90-105. Idk how hot that would enable the lugs to get. But I'd want it in the shade for sure.

 

[Maquis]

I was just going by the photo captions. Don't know how hot it gets in the summer where you are but it seems possible the relay temps could get close to or exceed the wiring rating.

There will only be a problem if the wire temp exceeds the temp rating of the wire. Other components don’t matter. My oven is wired with 60C wire, but I’m sure the heating element exceeds that by far.

 

[chl]

Well Excuuuuuse me...lol.

Beach all you want, call me a "code Nazi" if you like, fine, but the fact is there are only two LEGAL ways per NEC code to power your bonded neutral house panel with a BONDED neutral source (the Lightning is a bonded source - the neutral is bonded) and they are, drum roll please:

1) un-bond the neutral at the source - not easily done with the Lightning (nor advisable); or
2) use a neutral switching transfer switch.



Period end of story.

There was actually a post a while ago from someone who was powering a house under construction with the ground wire cut between the Lightning and the house, he touched the Lightning body and got a shock.

Believe it or not.

Ignore the NEC code at your own peril.

 

[Nolander]

The ground is disconnected where the generator cable enters the subpanel. This prevents the truck's GFCI protection from tripping due to the house's ground-neutral bond. The truck and the cable are protected by the truck's ground and GFCI. The subpanel onward are protected by the house's ground-neutral bond as it always is. It is perfectly safe, there is absolutely no loss of protection of any kind anywhere.

Amazing write up an admirable job! Kudos! So regarding the grounding situation. I have an existing generator setup like yours which is grounded. I too disconnected the ground for the truck. My question is, when using the gas-powered Honda gen on the same set up, is the generator not grounded thus requiring the original ground wire? Sorry I am an electrical idiot.

 

[Marcelo Zanetti]

Excellent, well detailed and documented job. Good work... Thanks for sharing.
Oh! And good luck with your battle as well... God Bless You.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Well Excuuuuuse me...lol.

Beach all you want, call me a "code Nazi" if you like, fine, but the fact is there are only two LEGAL ways per NEC code to power your bonded neutral house panel with a BONDED neutral source (the Lightning is a bonded source - the neutral is bonded) and they are, drum roll please:

1) un-bond the neutral at the source - not easily done with the Lightning (nor advisable); or
2) use a neutral switching transfer switch.

Aware. Same response as above. Thank you.

Sponsored