It's detailed somewhere in the thread. If you hook directly to the battery for both terminals, it can interfere with the module responsible for maintaining battery voltage.
Should have more clear. Not connecting directly to the negative battery terminal but rather connecting after the battery monitoring electronics on the negative body side of the battery. That point your connected to is a 10 gauge wire directly to that point on the battery. It has a large flat connector which is easier to connect to.
The nut at the other end of that cable works pretty well, too.This is the best location I have found to connect the negative lead to the truck. The other locations in this thread didn't work for me. I'm using the maintainer recommended.
I agree. That makes sense electrically. . . . And I tried it. Unfortunately, on mine there is gunk from the factory on the underside of that flat piece of metal and it made for a poor connection. However, the nut that holds that flat piece to the battery management sensor makes for a great ground. My NOCO Genius 10 held 12.9-13V during my entire 4.5-hour update session. And since the nut, the flat piece of metal, the cable attached to that metal and the grounding bolt on the other side of the cable are all downstream of the battery sensor, none of these potential negative alligator attachment points should mess up the sensorās calibration.
I completed my updates with no battery issues. Are you suggesting that I follow that wire back, which is closer to the battery? There is a nut which appears to be just before the battery monitoring system and the negative post. (Looks like someone posted just before I did confirming my question.)
Every tech that works for ford NEEDS to read this thread!!
My PB never went higher than 12.1. I didn't attempt the updates using a VX Nano. I should have checked the voltage in Forscan before purchasing a 2 day license.
I guarantee they are and probably saying well they doing it we wonāt bother dealers yet.
The other problem with the Noco smart chargers are they use PWM(Pulse width modulation) or equivalent to charge these batteries. I tried a noco and when I would plug in my laptop my mouse would go all crazy. Unplug the noco and all is fine. So a good conventional analog battery charger with 10/20/30 amp capabilities I think is best.re: battery, i use the schumacher INC100. used it when doing DME flashes on BMWs and it works perfect for this. the problem with the Noco and others is it only puts out 1, 2, or 5 amps (some do 10 i think?). my schumacher will do 10+ regularly even without programming. it does up to 100a in "flash/reprogram" mode for this specific type of work.
once you brick your BMW's most expensive piece of electronics, you don't screw around with subpar maintainers anymore
EDIT: anyone in the austin, TX area that needs some help, feel free to come on by as well.
nothing wrong with PWM, it's better than a lot of analog chargers as it's more efficient with the charging curves required for various batteries. however, as you noticed, sometimes in digital systems it can be a bit weird depending on how the respective circuits are designed to isolate from ground.
Totally agree, nothing wrong with them when used in the right application. They are just fine without a laptop connected to your truck writing to your modules. Not sure if would affect them but if itās messing with my mouse it could be messing with the Nano, Mongoose or VCM. Heaven forbid it tries to write a 2 in place of a 1 or 0. Blues screen of death one of our modules ???
I donāt agree with a blanket bash of NOCO chargers. I used a Genius 10 in power supply mode and it maintained a consistent 12.9-13V for more than four hours this morning and didnāt exhibit any of the irregularities you indicate. Sometimes itās the charger. Sometimes itās how you use it.
Not bashing them just voicing what Iāve seen. Youāre right though could be something with my charger or a combination of charger, surface tablet power supply and powerboost. I have the Noco 7200 and tried it in normal charge mode, AGM, AGM+ and power supply and got the same results. I ended up using 2 6 volt batteries (From my holiday trailer) in series (12 volts) connected to my truck with jumper cables and a charger on the 6 volt batteries charging in 12 volt mode. Constant 12.9 volts all the time. May have been over complicating it but the extra batteries gives the truck greater capacity to handle the draw.
