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What to look out for when going over towing capacity?

ryun

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I don't ever, ever plan to do this but maybe I'm in a situation where I need to tow a few hundred pounds over my truck's 5000 lb capacity. Would one just keep an eye on temperatures on the gauge and keep off the highway when possible?

I'm curious here partly for preparedness, but also because the only thing that seems to separate my trim from max tow (providing 7700 lbs) is additional cooling. Lightning's all seem to be structurally built to a 10,000 lb towing capacity regardless. And I haven't read anything that says the brakes are stronger on one trim level than the other.
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TaxmanHog

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What is the Ford F-150® Lightning® towing capacity?

The F-150® Lightning® XLT and LARIAT models have a maximum conventional towing capacity of 10,000 pounds.

Models featuring the standard range battery can tow up to 7,700 lbs. *

*Max towing on XLT and LARIAT models with available extended-range battery and Max trailer tow package. Max towing varies based on cargo, vehicle configuration, accessories and number of passengers.

I would watch the motor & battery temps, the Max Tow package helps keep temps under control in the worst of conditions, if you don't have that option, you're not likely to encounter a problem unless pushing the limits and duration in hottest climates, driving slower can help control the situation.

Also pay attention to the weight rating sticker in the door jam.

Ford F-150 Lightning What to look out for when going over towing capacity? 1699821595542
 

Heliian

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You bring up a good point. 5000lbs is probably the rating of your hitch/ball. Going over that would exceed its design capacity even though the lightning can handle up to 10k lbs.

Also, depending on your jurisdiction, trailers over a certain size/weight have to have their own brakes.

Overloading or exceeding any design specification puts you at risk.
 

lister coggs

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Does anyone have experience or trip reports doing this? I have a Lariat SR with Tow Tech, but no max tow. Planning on towing a 6500lbs camper about 80 miles, flat terrain, about 86 degrees F.

Is this extremely reckless? or no big deal?
 

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Exceeding weight limits could theoretically cause your insurance policy to become null and void in the event of an incident if experienced as described, even if not at fault.

*This is not legal, or any other type of, advice
**The driver is always responsible for their vehicle, trailer, load, and proper insurance
 

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TomB985

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Exceeding weight limits could theoretically cause your insurance policy to become null and void in the event of an incident if experienced as described, even if not at fault.

*This is not legal, or any other type of, advice
**The driver is always responsible for their vehicle, trailer, load, and proper insurance
That is 100% false. We carry insurance because we’re sometimes negligent and get into accidents. There’s nothing you can hook to your truck that will cause your insurance company not to cover a claim.

Does anyone have experience or trip reports doing this? I have a Lariat SR with Tow Tech, but no max tow. Planning on towing a 6500lbs camper about 80 miles, flat terrain, about 86 degrees F.

Is this extremely reckless? or no big deal?
No big deal. My truck is an ER without max tow, so I have the same battery cooling as you do. I recently posted a thread about my experiences towing my 5,500 lb boat. My truck is rated for 7,700 lbs because of the larger battery, but I’ve never seen temperatures above normal. My battery temps slowly climbed to ~10º above ambient, which was still cooler than I’ve seen while DC fast charging.

You have the same motors, frame, brakes, bearings, and cooling as my truck. You’ll be just fine, just keep track of efficiency and speed to make sure you make your destination without having to stop to charge.
 

lister coggs

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That is 100% false. We carry insurance because we’re sometimes negligent and get into accidents. There’s nothing you can hook to your truck that will cause your insurance company not to cover a claim.



No big deal. My truck is an ER without max tow, so I have the same battery cooling as you do. I recently posted a thread about my experiences towing my 5,500 lb boat. My truck is rated for 7,700 lbs because of the larger battery, but I’ve never seen temperatures above normal. My battery temps slowly climbed to ~10º above ambient, which was still cooler than I’ve seen while DC fast charging.

You have the same motors, frame, brakes, bearings, and cooling as my truck. You’ll be just fine, just keep track of efficiency and speed to make sure you make your destination without having to stop to charge.

Thanks, I'll have to investigate the insurance issue as that seems like the most serious issue with exceeding the rating.

I wonder if Ford just made these tow ratings to encourage buyers to purchase higher end trim packages. I can see the logic behind your vehicle overheating less if it has more horsepower, though.

On another post I made, an owner suggested turning off cabin AC when exceeding tow rating to pass more cooling to the battery.
 

TomB985

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Thanks, I'll have to investigate the insurance issue as that seems like the most serious issue with exceeding the rating.

I wonder if Ford just made these tow ratings to encourage buyers to purchase higher end trim packages. I can see the logic behind your vehicle overheating less if it has more horsepower, though.

On another post I made, an owner suggested turning off cabin AC when exceeding tow rating to pass more cooling to the battery.
Ford and most other OEMs operate proving grounds, dynamometers, and other machinery that they use to push vehicles to the max before releasing them for production. They have to be sure that they can survive the absolute worst-case user through the warranty period, otherwise they’re on the hook for a very expensive failure.

1,500 lbs over your tow rating is only 10% over the gross combined weight rating. That’s way less strain on the powertrain than pulling the rated weight across I-70 in Colorado. If it can survive that repeatedly for 100,000 miles, it’ll survive your tow with 6,500 lbs.
 

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You bring up a good point. 5000lbs is probably the rating of your hitch/ball. Going over that would exceed its design capacity even though the lightning can handle up to 10k lbs.

Also, depending on your jurisdiction, trailers over a certain size/weight have to have their own brakes.

Overloading or exceeding any design specification puts you at risk.
The one I use is rated at 10,000 and I use is a, convertaball system so any sized ball can be instantly used without wrenches or loss of ground clearance. I tow lots of different trailers.
 

Heliian

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The one I use is rated at 10,000 and I use is a, convertaball system so any sized ball can be instantly used without wrenches or loss of ground clearance. I tow lots of different trailers.
Perfect! Just make sure your trailers hitch is also rated. Usually stamped on the tongue.
 

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Perfect! Just make sure your trailers hitch is also rated. Usually stamped on the tongue.
Yes, all need that rating. People often pay little attention to the ball which is the most important part.

Here is what I have been using since the early 80's and its still available. To change balls you just push out the pin remove and replace with the size you need. The ball mount stays on the hitch. The pin dosen't come out it is part of the ball assembly so it dosent get lost. Tim always towing dofferent trailers with differnt size balls and with these two minutes and I'm ready for any. They do make a 6,000 pound system so be sure you order the 10,000 pund stainless one. Another advantage is it dosent interferr with the ground clearance like many of the other multiball system do.

https://www.trailerpartsusa.com/944-902p-convert-a-ball-3-ball-ss.html
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