Request: A concise answer to how to connect Pro Power to a generator inlet

[mekuhl]

Searching through this forum about connecting Pro Power to a generator inlet results in many well informed extensive discussions, but I can't seem to find concise instructions. I see many mentions of dealing with neutral wires that often turn into debates on the merits of various approaches. I'm down for a good debate when I understand the subject area, but I'm at sea for this topic. Searching the web gets lots of generator inlet tutorials but nothing specific to Pro Power as far as I can find.

Reason I'm asking is that I'm having a generator inlet and interlock installed soon, but I don't know if I need to tell the electrician anything special about Pro Power or if I can let them do a typical installation and I just need to get a specific cable for Pro Power.

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[Henry Ford]

ProPower has GFCI protection which will trip if neutral touches ground at any point other than the frame of the truck. There's no getting around that fact.

If you plug ProPower into a power inlet box connected to a breaker with an interlock on your panel the GFCI will trip and you won't have power because every circuit in your house connects neutral to ground at the panel.

In order to use ProPower to power your house you need a solution that switches the neutrals of every circuit you want powered. There are various ways to go about this. I have yet to see a code compliant way to do this so I'll stop here.

I know you are looking for a quick answer but there really isn't one. I suggest reading threads about the Generac 6852 to educate yourself about the capabilities of ProPower, the options available, and the threats of using each option.

 

[mekuhl]

OK, after even more searching I might have found a concise answer:

Best would be to tell him you would like to put in a generator transfer switch, for a 10 kW generator with a bonded neutral, and a 14-30R receptacle to plug the generator into. Then whether you use the truck or an actual generator to power your house, you are all set.

Thoughts?

 

[Amps]

Thoughts?

IMHO, you already got the best answer from @Henry Ford if you don't want to use extension cords directly from the truck. It may not be elegant, but it's not bad for areas with fairly reliable grids.

I suggest reading threads about the Generac 6852 to educate yourself about the capabilities of ProPower, the options available, and the threats of using each option.

 

[carys98]

OK, after even more searching I might have found a concise answer:


Thoughts?

This is exactly what you want.

 

[v2h8484]

Reason I'm asking is that I'm having a generator inlet and interlock installed soon, but I don't know if I need to tell the electrician anything special about Pro Power or if I can let them do a typical installation and I just need to get a specific cable for Pro Power.

Tell the electrician you need to connect a "separately derived system" generator in a way that is compliant with your local building codes and any permit/inspection requirements.

 

[Henry Ford]

Tell the electrician you need to connect a "separately derived system" generator in a way that is compliant with your local building codes and any permit/inspection requirements.

Oh look, an open can of worms.

 

[Box Cat]

OK, after even more searching I might have found a concise answer:


Thoughts?

Not only you would have to tell the electrician that the generator is neutral bonded, but that it has GFCI.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I simply use the same exact NEMA14-50 I normally use to charge... at least this is MY way of doing it, many may warn against it, but it works, and has several times I've needed it:

 

[TaxmanHog]

OK, after even more searching I might have found a concise answer:

Link from blocked source [de-linked]

 

[Newton]

It should be no problem for a decent electrician. It is a separately derived system as v2h8484 said. You will need a three wire transfer switch like the Generac Homelink 30A ($379) and any circuits that you want backed up moved to it. It is no big deal but may cost a bit more time than you expect since it involves more fiddling around in your circuit panel than if you did not have to do it. Should not cost an arm and a leg, though.

If you are in Washington make sure that the electrician installs a label onto the inlet that says something like "WARNING FOR CONNECTION OF A SEPARATELY DERIVED (BONDED NEUTRAL) SYSTEM ONLY." They have gotten picky about that here.

If you have another generator you will have to follow the instructions to convert it to a bonded neutral system if you want to use it with that inlet.

Bonded vs unbonded neutrals are a pain, NEC really should have required different plugs for the two scenarios.

If you are in Canada then there are some extra complexities.

 

[intensifi]

While everyone who has posted is trying to provide good & safe info, please understand this is now obsolete information.

the new meter collars with generator input provide the functionality you want.

 

[ctuan13]

I simply use the same exact NEMA14-50 I normally use to charge... at least this is MY way of doing it, many may warn against it, but it works, and has several times I've needed it:

So wait just to clarify, you're back feeding power into the nema 14-50 receptacle you normally use to charge?

 

[GoodSam]

Backup power transfer meter manual:
https://www.pge.com/assets/pge/docs...er-transfer-meter-manual.pdf.coredownload.pdf

Max 30Amps or 7.2kW load (matches the pro power bed outlet 240Vac available) so one would need to drop excessive loads like hard start air conditioning, etc.
I would think solar systems would need to be dropped as well as the truck may not be able to take in power if fully charged.

Great way to go by saving much higher costs of a separate panel and wiring. Especially if PG&E will provide and install for free!

 

[Pioneer74]

While everyone who has posted is trying to provide good & safe info, please understand this is now obsolete information.

the new meter collars with generator input provide the functionality you want.

They are only an option if your utility has approved them.

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