Unused 30 Amp Dryer Breaker/Circuit For EV Charging

[flyct]

Based on Your situation, I'd just hard-wire a good solid EVSE with thicker-gage wiring and avoid receptacles. I swear by my outdoor Canadian Grizzl-E.

Grizzl-E Classic ( https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Electric-Vehicle-Certified-Charging/dp/B082LMVSLY/ ) is a well know, highly rated, bulletproof and reliable EVSE.

My suggestion is if he didn't want to rewire then he could just remove the 30 amp dryer outlet and hard wire a Grozzl-E at the outlet box and set the Grizzl-E up as 24 Amps for 30A circuit breaker. Later if he wants more output he could always run #6 wire from breaker box, replace the 30 amp breaker and set it up as 40 Amps for 50A circuit breaker.

Since we also have Teslas we have a hard wired Tesla 48 amp set up for 60 amp breaker which we use to charge our Teslas and Lightning. As a backup I have a Tesla mobile charger with a Tesla 14-30 dryer plug which automatically sets the charger limit to 24 amps when plugged into my 4-wire dryer outlet. Unfortunately Ford doesn't offer that option with their mobile charger. A missed opportunity.

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[watts/up]

Since we also have Teslas we have a hard wired Tesla 48 amp set up for 60 amp breaker which we use to charge our Teslas and Lightning. As a backup I have a Tesla mobile charger with a Tesla 14-30 dryer plug which automatically sets the charger limit to 24 amps when plugged into my 4-wire dryer outlet. Unfortunately Ford doesn't offer that option with their mobile charger. A missed opportunity.

I have a 30A outlet in my garage that I had installed for a home brewing setup that I'm now using with Tesla's Mobile Connector, their 14-30 adapter and a NACS to J1772 adapter (I bought one from Lectron but A2Z also has one). As stated, the setup pulls 24A and if I recall correctly I get about 12-13 miles per hour of charge. I had intended to upgrade as others have recommended but so far the setup works perfectly fine for me.

 

[flyct]

I have a 30A outlet in my garage that I had installed for a home brewing setup that I'm now using with Tesla's Mobile Connector, their 14-30 adapter and a NACS to J1772 adapter (I bought one from Lectron but A2Z also has one). As stated, the setup pulls 24A and if I recall correctly I get about 12-13 miles per hour of charge. I had intended to upgrade as others have recommended but so far the setup works perfectly fine for me.

Thats what I use as a backup

Tesla $230 “mobile connector”
https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/mobile-connector https:/

The 14-30 Tesla adapter to mate with dryer outlet for mobile connector
shop.tesla.com/product/gen-2-nema-adapters

this is Similar Adapter I use to go from Tesla to J1772 Ford truck inlet for $39 https://www.amazon.com/𝐓𝐞𝐬𝐥𝐚-𝐉𝟏𝟕𝟕𝟐-𝐀𝐝𝐚𝐩𝐭𝐞𝐫-Compatible-Silver-Plated/dp/B0D22V5MNJ/

 

[Danface]

If you're only running 2-3 feet, why not just swap the 30 amp for 100 amp and run the charger at 80 amps?

 

[StevenC56]

If you're only running 2-3 feet, why not just swap the 30 amp for 100 amp and run the charger at 80 amps?

The Mobile charger can run on 100 amps? I've already ordered all the parts to do the 50 amp circuit. Figured that would be fine. (And probably a safer solution with my already maxed out service box)

 

[Henry Ford]

I can put a 50 amp breaker in place of the 30 and run 6 gauge wiring easy enough. I'm going to disconnect the dryer wiring, tag it and move it out of the way for now. The run from the breaker location through the back of my service box to the planned location of the garage wall receptacle is only 2-3'. I'm just not sure that's the best thing to do.

That is close to the best thing to do. The best thing to do is to replace the 30 amp circuit with an appropriately sized breaker and wiring for a hardwired charger that fits your needs.

In determining what fits your needs some things to consider are how much you drive, how you drive (infrequent long trips, frequent short trips, etc), discount rates at off peak times and probably other things I can't think of at this moment.

For example, my discount rate is 10 hours per day. I have a 40 amp circuit running to my 32 amp charger. I can add about 70 kWh* during my regular charge time. That's about 53% of my 131kWh battery and 140 miles at 2.0 kWh/h. If I drive more than 140 miles per day on multiple days I have to charge at off peak times or come up with some other plan.

I have an 80 amp charger at our vacation home that doesn't have a time of use discount. There's no additional planning required there.


* 240Vx32A=7,680W (7.7kW). Minus 10% for heat loss=7.0kW. X10 hours on the charger=70kWh

 

[Henry Ford]

The Mobile charger can run on 100 amps? I've already ordered all the parts to do the 50 amp circuit. Figured that would be fine. (And probably a safer solution with my already maxed out service box)

The hard wired Ford Charge Station Pro can run at 80 amps on a 100 amp circuit. Lightnings used to come with that charger and the, unhelpfully named, Ford Mobile Power Cord. I'm guessing @Danface confused the two chargers.

 

[TaxmanHog]

I have my 2024 Lariat on order as of today

Maybe the above commentor's should re-read the OP?!?
An FCSP is not appropriate for his new truck

 

[Calvin H-C]

to use your Ford MOBILE EVSE, on it's 240v adapter, though, you'll need to rewire the system with 8 or 6awg wiring on a 40 or 50amp 240v breaker set... pulling the new LARGER wiring is generally the issue, or the hardest part. Your EVSE wont need the NEUTRAL wire, but likely, it's best to wire it in anyway. My camper uses a 240v 50amp outlet just like this, but DOES need the Neutral.

If you want to save on cost, but future proof your installation, consider using conduit between the panel and your outlet (or EVSE, if hardwired).

Granted, conduit is an extra cost, but given copper prices it may be an alternative to consider.

We installed an Emporia EVSE that needed #6 conductors on a 60 A breaker (the grounding conductor can be #8, but I used #6 as I had it available). The conduit is sized to replace the two #6 hot wires with #3 or add a #6 neutral should either be needed in the future.

 

[Danface]

The Mobile charger can run on 100 amps? I've already ordered all the parts to do the 50 amp circuit. Figured that would be fine. (And probably a safer solution with my already maxed out service box)

The Ford charger runs at 80 amps but requires a 100 amp breaker and 3 AWG wire. I ran 70 feet and it got expensive but for few feet, the cost wouldn't be too bad.

 

[Danface]

The hard wired Ford Charge Station Pro can run at 80 amps on a 100 amp circuit. Lightnings used to come with that charger and the, unhelpfully named, Ford Mobile Power Cord. I'm guessing @Danface confused the two chargers.

I did and I have an extra 80 amp charger if anyone needs one!

 

[RocketGhost]

Technically there's a limit to the total available amps among all the breakers. If an electrician follows the books it may not be possible to change the 30 to a 50. But the reality is that it's unlikely that you will be running all your heavy loads at the same time such that it would reach the panel max.

 

[StevenC56]

If you want to save on cost, but future proof your installation, consider using conduit between the panel and your outlet (or EVSE, if hardwired).

Granted, conduit is an extra cost, but given copper prices it may be an alternative to consider.

We installed an Emporia EVSE that needed #6 conductors on a 60 A breaker (the grounding conductor can be #8, but I used #6 as I had it available). The conduit is sized to replace the two #6 hot wires with #3 or add a #6 neutral should either be needed in the future.

The proposed receptacle location inside my garage is literally back to back with my service box.

 

[TaxmanHog]

A 2024 Lightning Lariat with a SINGLE charge controller will only draw up to 48 amps, if future proofing is to be considered over the OP's current plan to use the Ford Mobile Charger, then a 60 amp breaker with appropriate wiring is good enough.

 

[StevenC56]

A 2024 Lightning Lariat with a SINGLE charge controller will only draw up to 48 amps, if future proofing is to be considered over the OP's current plan to use the Ford Mobile Charger, then a 60 amp breaker with appropriate wiring is good enough.

I have a 50 amp breaker on order, would a 60 amp be a wiser choice? The wiring will be 6 gauge on the hots and neutral, with a 10 gauge ground.

Edit: I should probably just stick with the 50 amp breaker from what I'm reading. 6 gauge wire on a 60 amp breaker would probably be ok for my short run, but for anything longer 4 gauge would be preferred.

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