Charge Fault with two different at-home chargers (Tesla and Charge point)

[desiderata2001]

I have read everything I can find on the subject without resolution (including Reddit).

I have a 14-50 outlet that I use with the Ford mobile charger, and it works fine, no issues at all.

I traded my Tesla for the Lightning and already had a Gen 3 Wall charger for the Tesla. I never had an issue charging the Tesla (or other electric cars) but as soon as I hooked up my Lightning I got a charge fault. (Red ring only one time). I read that Ford can be a little fussier. I checked all wiring gauges, breakers, etc. and everything seems fine.

I sold my Tesla charger and got a Charge Point hardwired and hooked it up with 6-3 and a 60amp breaker (non GFCI). No issues with anything on the charger but still getting Charge Fault with Lightning. I have noticed one thing, when I first plug in and then go to the Ford Pass App and look at energy, it starts off with 1 kwh and goes up to 8kwh and then back down to 1kwh and then back up several times until it does the charge fault.

I have never had any issues charging anywhere (DC fast charging, etc.) but at my house. I am starting to suspect something is awry with my electrical panel but wanted to check here first. I have deleted my preferred charge times just in case.

I am not electrician, but I know enough to do simple installs.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Sponsored

 

[Grumpy2]

It is possible you are getting low voltage that the Lightning doesn't like. Perhaps when you were drawing 30 amps or so with the Ford mobile charger you were still maintaining about 240 volts, with the higher demand of 40-50 amps perhaps the voltage at the outlet has dropped enough for the truck to refuse it.
You can easily test 120 volt circuits inexpensively with the following device at a plug-in near the charger that may provide a clue. I am hoping if the 240 voltage drop is the issue, you will see a measurable drop on a 120 plug when the charger cycles on/off trying to charge the truck.

Low voltage to your 240 volt wall charger plug could be caused by several things, so before chasing that rabbit it would be good to gather more info.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Consumption-Electricity-Backlight-Protection/dp/B0D5QMK3BP/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2LDV2YTB2JBHF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zvT4Y30IhnlhuQG5JXIBTuRvyJSZLcOxxxCTcNuLfqQ5Pdinw0z02wpgsofLKW6GTHnnD74jbEvkLMQODdb8w44zOOK6aLs6Hlkf3A7zSTQBZmi8p6XfiR3TfN088-5KRO5_HAwLwBAauKcKE-v5b5s7OJUr5oaXH8HNmjOF16_jjyAlzuAEbzY6Uy3G7w1XDQTfsS7Ldk2cduLHZYdUrTu2iCKdN0zXrIOez4WDDmZHW9cXT3Y1I7TBz9KqJVW-M9AU33DuYjjlHBj30bYoukJF1Mmzz7OuNcHx3c3NgYE.YNMtQxlp5zWErUnLt_3NCixmwrXHDTIAKjx3WhdlQCY&dib_tag=se&keywords=watch+a+watt+plugin+device&qid=1727235991&sprefix=watch+a+watt+plugin+device,aps,217&sr=8-2

 

[Maquis]

It is possible you are getting low voltage that the Lightning doesn't like. Perhaps when you were drawing 30 amps or so with the Ford mobile charger you were still maintaining about 240 volts, with the higher demand of 40-50 amps perhaps the voltage at the outlet has dropped enough for the truck to refuse it.
You can easily test 120 volt circuits inexpensively with the following device at a plug-in near the charger that may provide a clue. I am hoping if the 240 voltage drop is the issue, you will see a measurable drop on a 120 plug when the charger cycles on/off trying to charge the truck.

Low voltage to your 240 volt wall charger plug could be caused by several things, so before chasing that rabbit it would be good to gather more info.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Consumption-Electricity-Backlight-Protection/dp/B0D5QMK3BP/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2LDV2YTB2JBHF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zvT4Y30IhnlhuQG5JXIBTuRvyJSZLcOxxxCTcNuLfqQ5Pdinw0z02wpgsofLKW6GTHnnD74jbEvkLMQODdb8w44zOOK6aLs6Hlkf3A7zSTQBZmi8p6XfiR3TfN088-5KRO5_HAwLwBAauKcKE-v5b5s7OJUr5oaXH8HNmjOF16_jjyAlzuAEbzY6Uy3G7w1XDQTfsS7Ldk2cduLHZYdUrTu2iCKdN0zXrIOez4WDDmZHW9cXT3Y1I7TBz9KqJVW-M9AU33DuYjjlHBj30bYoukJF1Mmzz7OuNcHx3c3NgYE.YNMtQxlp5zWErUnLt_3NCixmwrXHDTIAKjx3WhdlQCY&dib_tag=se&keywords=watch+a+watt+plugin+device&qid=1727235991&sprefix=watch+a+watt+plugin+device,aps,217&sr=8-2

Low voltage cannot cause problems. You can supply 120V to a 240V EVSE and it will charge. There is a problem with the charger in his truck.

 

[Grumpy2]

You can supply 120V to a 240V EVSE and it will charge.

What led me down that path was the OP's experience with the Truck taking juice from a Ford mobile charger.

 

[kcoates2]

It could be the truck. I could DCFC, but level 2 charging would always fault. Here is the thread of my experience and what module was replaced on the truck. https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...rging-with-autel-50a-fix-replace-sobdm.21241/

I hope this helps.

 

[desiderata2001]

It could be the truck. I could DCFC, but level 2 charging would always fault. Here is the thread of my experience and what module was replaced on the truck. https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...rging-with-autel-50a-fix-replace-sobdm.21241/

I hope this helps.

I read your post before, but I have used other level 2 chargers successfully and that's why I was thinking it was something with my charger (or electrical panel), but I will call service today and see what codes they are seeing.

 

[desiderata2001]

I read your post before, but I have used other level 2 chargers successfully and that's why I was thinking it was something with my charger (or electrical panel), but I will call service today and see what codes they are seeing.

I am also going to throw a meter on it tonight just to see what I am getting.

 

[Adventureboy]

Hoping you aren't running the 14-50 plug on a 60amp breaker..... ;-)

I've had charge issues on my 2023. I've had to do a 12v reset to reset the onboard charger a few times (and it worked). I would get the red ring of death on all EVSEs until I did the reset. I didn't however test it on the Ford Mobile Charger but it wouldn't work on the Ford charger at the dealer either. Ford eventually had to replace the onboard charger since the 12v reset wouldn't work anymore.

I'd try the 12v reset first. Then if it continues, book it in at the dealer.

 

[desiderata2001]

Hoping you aren't running the 14-50 plug on a 60amp breaker..... ;-)

I've had charge issues on my 2023. I've had to do a 12v reset to reset the onboard charger a few times (and it worked). I would get the red ring of death on all EVSEs until I did the reset. I didn't however test it on the Ford Mobile Charger but it wouldn't work on the Ford charger at the dealer either. Ford eventually had to replace the onboard charger since the 12v reset wouldn't work anymore.

I'd try the 12v reset first. Then if it continues, book it in at the dealer.

No, the 14-50 is on a 50 amp. I will give the reset a try. Thank you.

 

[chl]

No, the 14-50 is on a 50 amp. I will give the reset a try. Thank you.

1) The 14-50 outlet should be derated and on a 40A breaker (80% rule for continuous loads).

2) The mobile charger will draw about 30A-32A and work fine on the 14-50 outlet on a 40A breaker (I have one in my garage I used before getting a FCSP).

3) Your truck/EVSE is apparently trying to charge first pulling 1kW then 8kW (240V x 33A) and encounters a problem using a Charge Point EVSE hard wired on a 60A breaker on #6-3 wire.

The handshaking between the truck and the EVSE seems to be saying the EVSE and the truck are expecting to be able to provide 48A (11.5kW) but the EVSE is saying it can't handle that ampacity (is it set to provide 48A?) so it stops at 33A (8kW) apparently unable to function even at that level. The mobile charger does not go above 32A so would not encounter that issue.

What could be the issue?

The main culprit is usually temperature/excessive heat on the conductor/terminals.
That can be either because the wire is undersized (I assume you used the correct wire size and type the EVSE specified) OR because the wire conductors are not torqued down at the EVSE terminals correctly (too loose).

There have been some reports on the forums of some FCSP that faulted out because the terminals were not torqued enough, so I suspect that could be your problem.

If so the remedy is to torque down the terminals to the specified pressure. To do that you need a torque driver.

Remember to be sure the power is off BEFORE trying to torque down the terninals!!!
Death or serious injury may result if done while powered!!!

If that doesn't solve the issue, possibly the Lightning charge on-board circuitry is as fault.

Good luck.

 

[GoodSam]

1) The 14-50 outlet should be derated and on a 40A breaker (80% rule for continuous loads).

I think this statement is incorrect. The 14-50 should be on a 50A circuit breaker, with properly sized wiring. But 40A is the maximum continuous load that can be put on a 50A circuit breaker (80%).
On a 50A circuit breaker, one might be reasonably worried that the the 30A/32A rated Ford Mobile Electric Vehicle Service Equipment (EVSE) will not be protected, but it must protect itself because the instructions say it is OK.

Sponsored