Class Action Lawsuit - Home Integration System

[tearitupsports]

I don't have a critical load panel, it's going straight to the main panel done by a license electrician. He double checked the wiring yesterday from the Delta diagram. I will be showing this thread to my electrician.

What you are describing is perfectly valid. It may be that you are not testing it properly. In your case the whole home backup would be between your main service wires and your panelboard.

Are you shutting off the main breaker in your panelboard? In your particular setup, this would be wrong and the reason why it doesn't work.

Did they add a different main breaker or disconnect before the WHB where the utility comes in? That is likely what you need to shut off to test.
Maybe take a picture of your installation?

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[darknla]

What you are describing is perfectly valid. It may be that you are not testing it properly. In your case the whole home backup would be between your main service wires and your panelboard.

Are you shutting off the main breaker in your panelboard? In your particular setup, this would be wrong and the reason why it doesn't work.

Did they add a different main breaker or disconnect before the WHB where the utility comes in? That is likely what you need to shut off to test.
Maybe take a picture of your installation?

Thanks for your help and insight, I really appreciate it. I will talk to the electrician tomorrow see what he thinks. He did mention that he didn't think shutting of the Main Breaker would be a good test. I told him that's how most people were doing it online.

 

[Zaptor]

What a fiasco, Ford... I have 2 of these trucks and want this sooooo badly for backup but I'm also not a gambler, especially a $10k+ ante bet.

Really wish they had gotten this right, and hope they will at least open up the software capabilities for third party 2-way charging in the future.

Ford, if you're listening: if you offered a money back guarantee this would work, I'd order it today... but not rolling the dice with 5 figure sums on this sort of success rate


Cheers
Zap

 

[tearitupsports]

Thanks for your help and insight, I really appreciate it. I will talk to the electrician tomorrow see what he thinks. He did mention that he didn't think shutting of the Main Breaker would be a good test. I told him that's how most people were doing it online.

The power goes from 1 ->4 in that order if it is wired correctly. I assume that you should be shutting it off where the yellow circle is.
To test the system you have to be able to disconnect it between 1 and 2. It sounds like wherever you are testing it now is somewhere between 2 and 3, which will not work.

 

[tearitupsports]

What a fiasco, Ford... I have 2 of these trucks and want this sooooo badly for backup but I'm also not a gambler, especially a $10k+ ante bet.

Really wish they had gotten this right, and hope they will at least open up the software capabilities for third party 2-way charging in the future.

Ford, if you're listening: if you offered a money back guarantee this would work, I'd order it today... but not rolling the dice with 5 figure sums on this sort of success rate


Cheers
Zap

Assuming your truck is at 6.14 and you can park fairly close to the FCSP (bluetooth range), the system is working reliably now.
The HIS hardware is actually really good and has a lot of the capabilities of other systems like sol-ark, EG4, etc (although max power might be lower than those depending on model).
I have the home battery which should be up and running by this weekend, so I don't have to even rely on the truck. It will just augment.

To be honest the issue is that the system is going to be hard to purchase just when it is ready for primetime.

I agree with you in that I hope that 3rd party options will work, but that may not happen with the existing model years. Ideally the communication will go through the charge cable like it is supposed to. I believe that is how the Silverado works, but not certain.

 

[Ekiehn]

Sorry that it is not working great for you. On my system I can park the truck fully in the driveway (although I have not tested with the garage door closed). I will also say that my charge station pro is just inside the garage by the door as well. I have not had to do anything else crazy like put the seat down or open the windows, etc. I intend to have the truck fully in the garage under power outage conditions.

I will say that I don't think there is any reason why you would ever have to re-pair the bluetooth, or cycle power to any device (other than the truck itself). After a lot of testing and figuring things out, I am fairly confident that the FCSP and delta pieces are not the actual culprit in systems not working. I am quite sure it is the truck modem. For the people who get their systems working after letting the CSP sit for 24 hours, etc. I believe it is actually the truck resetting after that time that is getting the systems to work.

With the recent updates, I no longer have any issue except when the truck modem is out. The truck modem has plenty of other symptoms to identify it as well. I also believe after recent updates, the truck modem issue is from using the sync Alexa app primarily.

What software of the truck, FCSP, and Delta inverter are you on? I think we can get your system a lot more reliable without Ford, Sunrun, etc.

In my case i know it is the FCSP the Bluetooth signal from the FCSP barely meets the minimum required (as specified by Ford and Sunrun) 2 ' straight in front of it...

 

[darknla]

The power goes from 1 ->4 in that order if it is wired correctly. I assume that you should be shutting it off where the yellow circle is.
To test the system you have to be able to disconnect it between 1 and 2. It sounds like wherever you are testing it now is somewhere between 2 and 3, which will not work.

I got my electrician working on it but it seems the WHB is not wanting to send power to the grid. The electrician disconnected it between 1 and 2 and it didn't work. Same issues. Do you know if there is a setting in the m professional app that I need to change or enable?

 

[tearitupsports]

I got my electrician working on it but it seems the WHB is not wanting to send power to the grid. The electrician disconnected it between 1 and 2 and it didn't work. Same issues. Do you know if there is a setting in the m professional app that I need to change or enable?

Unfortunately it is really hard to see how this is all connected in your setup. Even in a grid outage the WHB still needs to be connected to your panel board. I was hoping there was a disconnect in that box but it is just wire nuts. I am not sure how you can simulate an outage without disconnecting the meter can.

 

[darknla]

Unfortunately it is really hard to see how this is all connected in your setup. Even in a grid outage the WHB still needs to be connected to your panel board. I was hoping there was a disconnect in that box but it is just wire nuts. I am not sure how you can simulate an outage without disconnecting the meter can.

Let me know if this picture helps. I disconnected the WHB from the grid.

 

[tearitupsports]

Let me know if this picture helps. I disconnected the WHB from the grid.

That looks like it should be correct. When you did this, did the truck come on correctly? This sounds silly but your main panel breaker is still on correct?

Here is how it is wired.

 

[darknla]

That looks like it should be correct. When you did this, did the truck come on correctly? This sounds silly but your main panel breaker is still on correct?

Here is how it is wired.

The truck comes on and is transferring power, I see the meter is connected to the WHB in the diagram and mine is connected to the main panel. Solar and EVSE show voltage but no amps running through in the M professional app. The main breaker is also on.

 

[tearitupsports]

The truck comes on and is transferring power, I see the meter is connected to the WHB in the diagram and mine is connected to the main panel. Solar and EVSE show voltage but no amps running through in the M professional app. The main breaker is also on.

The consumption meter should actually turn off, when the power goes out. My meter is inside the WHB. The CTs should be on the grid side of the WHB.

When you disconnect the grid power you should hear the relay in the WHB click over.

At this point it is very hard to tell what is going on without looking at all the wiring. I am quite sure there is something in there. It might just need a complete reset. It would be really nice if your electrician could add a disconnect between the grid and WHB. That would make this much easier to troubleshoot and test.
Did you take pictures of all the device wiring before the covers were put on? If so those might be helpful to look at.
I am about to go test mine for the first time since re-wiring it with proper conduit and adding in my solar system. It is working fine in grid mode and has the solar backfeeding the grid. My system has the WHB between the main panel and a sub panel though so it is quite easy to test without disturbing anything in the house.

 

[darknla]

The consumption meter should actually turn off, when the power goes out. My meter is inside the WHB. The CTs should be on the grid side of the WHB.

When you disconnect the grid power you should hear the relay in the WHB click over.

At this point it is very hard to tell what is going on without looking at all the wiring. I am quite sure there is something in there. It might just need a complete reset. It would be really nice if your electrician could add a disconnect between the grid and WHB. That would make this much easier to troubleshoot and test.
Did you take pictures of all the device wiring before the covers were put on? If so those might be helpful to look at.
I am about to go test mine for the first time since re-wiring it with proper conduit and adding in my solar system. It is working fine in grid mode and has the solar backfeeding the grid. My system has the WHB between the main panel and a sub panel though so it is quite easy to test without disturbing anything in the house.

The meter shuts off, we do hear it click over, but power is t being sent to the WHB, I will try to take off the covers tomorrow and take pictures of everything.

 

[tearitupsports]

The meter shuts off, we do hear it click over, but power is t being sent to the WHB, I will try to take off the covers tomorrow and take pictures of everything.

The WHB will not be powered. It actually disconnects the grid circuit when it goes offline. The power meter will shut off too. The critical part is that your E8-DBI inverter still has to be connected to the WHB in order to correctly form the neutral. That is what that big transformer in the WHB is doing. This is why you can't turn off your main breaker, because that breaks the connection between the 2 and the inverter will fault.

I know it is irritating to you right now, but your system is likely one small detail away from working properly. The hardest part to make work is working great for you.

 

[tearitupsports]

I'm aware the inverter CAN work in both directions. Just like it would with a 400vdc power wall.

What I'm saying is that no engineer with a brain would set it up to allow that. Arbitrarily pushing random excess power into the truck battery is dangerous and unrealistic. And again, where is this "feature" documented?

Assuming what the guy says is true and actually happened, that sounds like a configuration problem on the inverter since I'm not aware of any documentation for this to be enabled.

All that said, if it was mine, I'd probably try to configure it to do that, but very very carefully with safety of the truck battery in mind.

I have confirmed with my own system today, that excess solar charges the truck when in off grid mode.. Its slow as its only morning and my solar system faces south west. Even the Delta app shows power flowing to the truck with animation.
For reference my truck charge % has gone up since being on the home backup system. I have only a small 100W fan running so almost all of the solar is going into the truck.

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