do i need bigger battery upgrade if only using 1 or twice a year of long road trips?

[LightningShow]

I'm buying the extended range for the extra HP and torque and, to lesser degree, resale value. I already have a Chevy Bolt. It's not hard to manage the range with normal driving. I rarely take extended road trips beyond a few hundred miles but the extra time spent charging if it's only once a year, or less, really isn't worth $7000 for me. If I was driving 500+ miles every weekend I wouldn't buy an EV in the first place.

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[astricklin]

I'm buying the extended range for the extra HP and torque and, to lesser degree, resale value. I already have a Chevy Bolt. It's not hard to manage the range with normal driving. I rarely take extended road trips beyond a few hundred miles but the extra time spent charging if it's only once a year, or less, really isn't worth $7000 for me. If I was driving 500+ miles every weekend I wouldn't buy an EV in the first place.

It's an even bigger decision when going from a Pro to an XLT ER. That's $20k.....I could buy a maverick for that.

 

[Kickaha]

While driving my current EV, there has never been a time I have said to myself "I sure am glad I dont have all that extra range - what a waste."

There is no substitute for range!

 

[shutterbug]

While driving my current EV, there has never been a time I have said to myself "I sure am glad I dont have all that extra range - what a waste."

There is no substitute for range!

The question is not what you thought. It's whether you actually made use of that extra range. If you only drive around town and never exceed 100 miles in a day, then 300+ miles of range is definitely a waste. It's a waste because of extra cost of the bigger battery. It's a waste of energy, because hauling of the extra weight of the battery. It's a waste of resources, because most car makers are limited by the overall battery build capacity.

 

[Brian Head Yankee]

hmmm, by your logic all cars are a waste. Everyone could get by with a 10 mile battery or a 20 hp ICE engine with a 1 gallon gas tank.

 

[shutterbug]

hmmm, by your logic all cars are a waste. Everyone could get by with a 10 mile battery or a 20 hp ICE engine with a 1 gallon gas tank.

If you don't drive at all, sure, but then any car is a waste. Look, if yo normally drive 30 miles a day, and occasionally drive about 100 miles in a single day, having a battery that gives you 300+ miles range rather than 200, really is wasteful. This assumes you can charge overnight at home. For those who think that range is all important, try this theoretical example: A car the size of Winnebago with 4 seats, 1,000 mile range and $500,000 price. Is this a waste?

 

[SteffanG]

If you don't drive at all, sure, but then any car is a waste. Look, if yo normally drive 30 miles a day, and occasionally drive about 100 miles in a single day, having a battery that gives you 300+ miles range rather than 200, really is wasteful. This assumes you can charge overnight at home. For those who think that range is all important, try this theoretical example: A car the size of Winnebago with 4 seats, 1,000 mile range and $500,000 price. Is this a waste?

There is one big advantage of having a bigger battery other than the range. Less battery charging = less cycles on the battery = less battery degradation.
Plus with the ER battery you get 25% more HP and faster charging speeds which is quite significant.

 

[shutterbug]

There is one big advantage of having a bigger battery other than the range. Less battery charging = less cycles on the battery = less battery degradation.
Plus with the ER battery you get 25% more HP and faster charging speeds which is quite significant.

Sure, there are advantages to bigger battery. And if those advantages are important, then by all means. If you're going to tow, bigger battery helps. If you are going to go on frequent long trips, you should get the bigger battery.

Your point about battery degradation is a bit overstated. If the Pro trim is what you are satisfied with and you are not a fleet customer, the bigger battery will cost you $20K. that's 50% more, or $200+ per month over 8 years (are you planning to keep it longer?). Are you really expecting $20K worth of degradation?

Same with charging speed. DC charging speed does help on long trips. But after you've driven 100 miles around town in a day, even the mobile 32A charger will be enough to replenish your SOC to 100%. Besides, to take full advantage of 80A charging speed, you're going to need to install a 100A circuit. That's 50% of what a typical new home has. For older most homes, a 100A circuit will require a significant upgrade.

 

[SteffanG]

If you're comparing the pro to an xlt er then yes it is not worth it, though that $20k difference is a lot more than just a bigger battery.
I am in Canada where the Pro is not even available.
I am talking the difference if you're already thinking of getting an xlt or lariat, then the ER battery is only approx $7k more and includes the charger as well. I'm guessing that it is possible to install the charger on a lower breaker and just dial back the max charge current on the truck, but no one would know that until more info comes out.

 

[shutterbug]

If you're comparing the pro to an xlt er then yes it is not worth it, though that $20k difference is a lot more than just a bigger battery.
I am in Canada where the Pro is not even available.
I am talking the difference if you're already thinking of getting an xlt or lariat, then the ER battery is only approx $7k more and includes the charger as well. I'm guessing that it is possible to install the charger on a lower breaker and just dial back the max charge current on the truck, but no one would know that until more info comes out.

So far as I know, no EV on the market today allows you to "just dial back the max charge current". You need to do that on the charger. Even so, if you are charging at a lower rate, then the advantage of faster charging disappears.

 

[SteffanG]

Tesla will let you select what charge current you want to use. A lot of people won't be able to do the full 80A, but if they could charge at 60A, it is still above what any other charger will do while not requiring a service upgrade from 100A if it isn't done with a permit. If a permit is pulled, it is doubtful even a 40A charger would be able to meet the demand requirements on a 100A service.

Dialing back on the charger is better as then it doesn't matter what gets plugged in, it won't exceed that current. I wouldnt say it is "waste" as the 80A charger is "free" with the ER battery as opposed to buying a separate one.

 

[Fastnf]

So far as I know, no EV on the market today allows you to "just dial back the max charge current". You need to do that on the charger. Even so, if you are charging at a lower rate, then the advantage of faster charging disappears.

Hyundai Kona Electric also allows you to turn down current accepted from the car.
It has a high medium and low setting.

 

[shutterbug]

Hyundai Kona Electric also allows you to turn down current accepted from the car.
It has a high medium and low setting.

I wasn't aware of it, but how does high/low/med translate into amperes?

 

[Fastnf]

I wasn't aware of it, but how does high/low/med translate into amperes?

Haven't used it much so I had to go check the amps again.

On 240volts
Maximum is 7 kw which is 30 amps
Reduced is 6.3 kw or 26 amps
Minimum is 4.3kw or 18 amps

Can be used easily on a Nema 14-30 plug at the minimum setting

You can also set it for 120 volts but then the amps are getting really low. I think the % reduction is the same.

My charger has adjustable amps which is why I don't use the car setting much.

 

[LightningShow]

It's an even bigger decision when going from a Pro to an XLT ER. That's $20k.....I could buy a maverick for that.

I think the Pro is a fine choice for anyone on a strict budget.

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