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Chargepoint charger failure

Nomoregas

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I had a chargepoint charger fail yesterday and it has left me confused about some things, hoping electricians or anyone that knows how this could happen help me understand.

I went to my garage in the morning and could smell that burning electrical smell and discovered my charger plug was damaged and burnt. Thank god the truck managed to fully reach 80 percent charge and must have stopped charging before this went to an all out fire. When I opened this receptacle up both the hot lines were burnt with no insulation for about 3-4 inches from the end of the wires, ground was fine.

I have had my lightning since Oct 2022 and have 97,000 km on it and almost 100 percent charged at home on this chargepoint charger. Last night was -15 C (5F) so i know it harder on the charger at cold temps. I have run this charger 5 times a week all night until 80 percent charge never an issue.

if you know the chargepoint chargers, they are remotely set for maximum charger amperage via Wi-Fi and chargepopint, you cannot set the max rate like you can on the ford charger they do it for you.

I called chargepoint today and they seemed to have some concern over this and are quietly asking for pics and when reviewd decided to replace my charger at no cost to me and want this one returned.

I think my real concern here is, ok the charger failed in some way but why did my 40 amp breaker not fault/trip?

Ford F-150 Lightning Chargepoint charger failure IMG_0619


Ford F-150 Lightning Chargepoint charger failure IMG_0617


Ford F-150 Lightning Chargepoint charger failure IMG_0615


Ford F-150 Lightning Chargepoint charger failure IMG_0620
 

Maquis

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That receptacle is not one of the few available industrial-grade devices. When used continuously, they will all melt at some point. Your breaker didn’t trip because the charge current never exceeded the breaker rating. Once the connection points in the receptacle start to fail, the resistance increases and it overheats without any abnormal increase in current flow.

The best solution is to hard-wire the EVSE and eliminate the receptacle as a point of failure.
 
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Nomoregas

Nomoregas

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Thank you for that but... the receptacle is 50 amp, ok it is not designed for continuous load (i didn't know that they were not) but why the wire melted like that, it seems as if one leg was pulling a lot of current.

I will get an continuous use receptacle and replace this stove one.
 

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but why the wire melted like that, it seems as if one leg was pulling a lot of current.
Thermal cycling of the connections or the tension of receptacle blade receivers weakened overtime, leading to increased resistance and heat.
 

Heliian

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The torque on the connection needs to be set so that it doesn't loosen off.

Many heat cycles can on a loose connection can lead to what you see here.
The problem with those cheap outlets isn't duty cycle, it's plug cycles. Every time you unplug and plug it in the connections get weaker, your stove is rarely if ever unplugged so you are unlikely to see a problem there. That's why a commercial version is better. They now sell one marketed to ev's but it's a scam, the commercial one will do just fine.

Also, exposed nomex wire is unlikely to meet code.

Torque the terminals to the recommended value and you shouldn't have this problem again.
 

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Nomoregas

Nomoregas

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I am pretty sure the chargepoint charger is a plug option only and cannot be hardwired. My ford charger at another location is hardwired.

I never unplug this so it was not caused by unplugging the unit but I do understand the lug likely was not tight after 2.5 years of hot and cold, also you cannot tighten these lugs well as it is a robby screw and i know the ev receptacle will likely have allen head screws to torque

In any event I did purchase Leviton EV receptacle to replace this one.
 

RickLightning

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if you know the chargepoint chargers, they are remotely set for maximum charger amperage via Wi-Fi and chargepopint, you cannot set the max rate like you can on the ford charger they do it for you.
I don't believe you are correct.

It should have been set at time of installation to 32amps. If it was not, that contributed to your problem.
 

Pioneer74

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I am pretty sure the chargepoint charger is a plug option only and cannot be hardwired. My ford charger at another location is hardwired.

I never unplug this so it was not caused by unplugging the unit but I do understand the lug likely was not tight after 2.5 years of hot and cold, also you cannot tighten these lugs well as it is a robby screw and i know the ev receptacle will likely have allen head screws to torque

In any event I did purchase Leviton EV receptacle to replace this one.
Chargepoint can be hardwired. You have to remove the plug, which isn't good anymore anyways.

And what the heck is a "robby" screw?
 
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Nomoregas

Nomoregas

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Chargepoint can be hardwired. You have to remove the plug, which isn't good anymore anyways.

And what the heck is a "robby" screw?
LOL Robertson screw, I am not using this charger chargepoint is replacing it, I did not realize that plug was removable.

In any event I am moving in a few months and removing this entire wire, my next house I will run a bx line to the charger and hardwire it.

As for the other fellas comment chargepoint does remotely set the charge rate you cannot, the charger will not function out of the box until you call them when it is live and connected to your wifi, they then go through the process of asking what setup you have electrically, such as breaker and wire.
 

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Maquis

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LOL Robertson screw, I am not using this charger chargepoint is replacing it, I did not realize that plug was removable.

In any event I am moving in a few months and removing this entire wire, my next house I will run a bx line to the charger and hardwire it.

As for the other fellas comment chargepoint does remotely set the charge rate you cannot, the charger will not function out of the box until you call them when it is live and connected to your wifi, they then go through the process of asking what setup you have electrically, such as breaker and wire.
I think for initial setup, you can enter the info online an it gets set. Once that’s done you may have to contact them for changes.
 

kibo

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ChargePoint sells a plug version as well as a hardwired version of the Home Flex

You set the max amperage via the ChargePoint app when you first install the EVSE. You can remove the charger from your account and then re-add it to set the amperage to a different value (either reducing it for safety/derating reasons, or increasing it if you've added a higher capacity capacity+breaker for instance).

If you're unable to do this for some reason, you can call them and they can do it remotely.
 

The Weatherman

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What he said ^^^^^

I installed a ChargePoint Home Flex in shop building last year and yes it can be hardware and get a full 48Amp output. If you use the plug option 14-50R plug you get 40amps.

There are two different apps for the unit. One is for the user and works via WiFi. Mine is not on a WiFi network. The outer for the installing electrician to use and it asks if this a hardware or pug based installation. Based on that answer it sets the initial output amperage accordingly.
 

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I see two possible issues. The outlet is not rated for ev use. I had the same issue years ago with my first ev a leaf. I had a 30 amp circuit and I changed the outlet to match my charger with a Leviton from Home Depot. Needless to say it didn’t last the outlet fried after a few years. I ended up rewiring the entire circuit with 50 amp and added a Hubble outlet. Also make sure your charger is set to 80% the limit of your circuit so a 30 amp circuit should have a charger pushing no more than 24 amps.
 

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Thank you for that but... the receptacle is 50 amp, ok it is not designed for continuous load (i didn't know that they were not) but why the wire melted like that, it seems as if one leg was pulling a lot of current.

I will get an continuous use receptacle and replace this stove one.
Hubbell and Bryant should be on your short list, but direct wiring is best!
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