Charging cable run under garage door

[chl]

Has anyone one come up with a good way to run their ford charging cable under the garage door. I park my new flash outside the garage and just had my charger installed today. I’ve noticed that the garage door doesn’t close all the way and I also want to try and protect the cable.

I am using one of those under garage door cord protectors I bought on ETSY for $10.00 right now temporarily - to keep the door bottom level and keep out pests, I put some 1x2 under the rest of the garage door when using the protector.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1042599140/ev-charging-cable-garage-door-pass?ref=cart

But my upgrade plan is to put a pass through port/hatch like this which was designed for a FCSP CCS1 cable:
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https://makerworld.com/en/models/661390#profileId-588627

Description
This is a cable hatch sized for a CCS1 style EV Charger. The model consists of 3 parts: the 2 pieces that clamp onto the cable and the body. The body is sized to fit through a 5inch hole created by a hole saw. This was designed to clamp onto the cable provided by a Ford ChargeStationPro, but can be resized to fit whatever diameter cable is needed. I have to modify the mounting surface for mine to fit on my angled siding, but this is different for each use case. Adjust the mounting surface angle as needed. Magnets are required for the two clamp bodies. The main body is screwed to the siding with a ¼" flat head screw. The two combined clamp bodies are then rotated into place to secure. If desired, additional magnets can be used to secure, but this is optional.
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But I think a regular dryer vent, RV pass through hatch, or the like, modified a bit if needed, will work as well.

https://www.amazon.com/LCGP-Electri...d_r=1d66cfaa-cd8e-497a-8444-27cee2206d33&th=1

See also:

https://dougnet.home.blog/2018/09/01/evse-garage-pass-through-instructions/

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[Webbo85]

I did not change the seal out, felt it was unnecessary and the door still maintained water tightness and no bugs ever got in. I would just use this protector and call it a day.

I think it just depends on the age of your seal. My seal on the door was at least 15 years old, probably closer to 20. So it needed to be replaced. But if your seal is stuff puffy and not to flattened it would definitely work as you found out.

 

[BlueLightning]

Just install a 30 amp plug outside on the wall.

 

[chl]

Just install a 30 amp plug outside on the wall.

One cannot use a "30 amp plug" for the FCSP or the Mobile Power Cord, both of which will draw at least 30 or more amps at 240V. (I am assuming that it is not rated for more than 30A but I haven't looked at the specs.)

Instead, one would need at least a 40A circuit and a 50A outlet for the Mobile (because it uses a 50A plug) - the Mobile will pull 30A with the 240V dongle - the NEC continuous load rule applies so has to be on a 40A circuit breaker and wire.

For the FCSP, it must be hard-wired according to the install manual.

If the FCSP were wired with a 50A plug, the current would have to be turned down (with the dial on the circuit board) to no more than 40A through a 50A plug/socket, and on a 50A circuit breaker and wire (NEC 80% rule for continuous loads).

I saw a YouTube video of someone who did that, wired a FCSP with a 50A plug, but not recommended.

However, unfortunately, the latest NEC rules and local codes that have adopted them, are requiring such garage/outdoor EV outlets to be protected by GFCI which it has been reported often causes tripping of the breaker with many EVSE's. Most EVSE's have GFCI built-in. Hard wiring eliminates that tripping problem.

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