DIY: Installing ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) and LKA (Lane Keep Alert) to 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT

[Azgunguy]

where can I find the terminal ends so I cam crimp them myself? or the part number? I just received the 4 correct color wires today.

For going into the IPMA connector? Check one of my previous posts in the last couple pages. I have everything listed there. Let me know if you need anything else

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[captcory]

So, the Gen14 forum says these are terminals for the IMPA connector:


Then the correct pins: https://www.digikey.com/en/products...5-1/5437424?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIwE4wBYEFY0Fo4gLoF8g
and crimp them myself.

thanx got it

 

[cam29906]

I started with a small project to get familiar with Forescan as well, rain sensing wipers. Cheap and easy install with minimal programming.

Can you confirm the p/n for the rain sensor? or include a link if its just foscan settings? Thanks

 

[rio]

Finally ready to attempt this in a couple days. Does anybody know what the torque spec is for the six 21-mm bumper bolts?

 

[Azgunguy]

Finally ready to attempt this in a couple days. Does anybody know what the torque spec is for the six 21-mm bumper bolts?

2 ugga duggas. Tight as a tiger.

 

[cam29906]

Hi Guys, I installed the CCM today, got all the forscan updates completed and calibrated the CCM successfully. However when I press cruise control I get a pop up that Adaptive Cruise is not available. I do not have any DTCs anymore. Any ideas what to look for?
Also used the new version of Forscan and got checksum errors on every write. I’m not sure why but it seemed to work okay considering I got all the DTCs reset and the CCM calibrated.

All good after I left it for a few hours.

 

[captcory]

Can you confirm the p/n for the rain sensor? or include a link if its just foscan settings? Thanks

part number is. LU5Z-17D547-B

 

[rio]

Done with the hardware / electrical! Doing the FORscan changes now. I will run out of daylight by the time I'm done. CCM calibration should be fine to do at night, correct?

 

[ZSC100]

Done with the hardware / electrical! Doing the FORscan changes now. I will run out of daylight by the time I'm done. CCM calibration should be fine to do at night, correct?

yea, radar is RF has nothing to do with light. It's just recording and figuring out an RF baseline I believe.

 

[rio]

Success! Just got back from calibrating / testing and everything worked out smoothly. Thanks to @Azgunguy and @ZSC100 and everyone else who has contributed to making this amazing mod accessible.

I have a '23 Pro with missing wires at the IPMA. (I have max tow and pro power, but no tow tech). Following @Azgunguy's footsteps, I ran wires directly from the CCM pigtail to the IPMA. For the bumper removal process I followed @KurtsRPMGarage's excellent video.

I took the great advice from @ZSC100 to incorporate a Deutsch DT connector for easy disconnect in case of future bumper removal. You can see the four green wires from the CCM pigtail going into this connector in the picture below. From the other side of the Deutsch connector it was more or less a straight shot through the firewall into the IPMA. I bought the color-coded wires and wrapped them in automotive fabric tape.

Routing the wires was relatively straightforward. I did the same thing as @Azgunguy: pierced through the large rubber grommet at the firewall and fed the wire in from the inside.

Here's what it looks like from the inside:

And here's a couple pictures of the before and after adding the wires to the IPMA connector. I bought the crimp connectors from DigiKey (part # 1924955-1) and for $3.31 I also bought the IPMA connector (part # 2288276-1) just so that I could practice some crimping and inserting. Thanks to @ZSC100 for providing these part numbers. I already had a good crimping tool.

I took my time with FORscan (maybe about 1.5-2 hours) and got everything working first try! I used Livinitup's spreadsheet to cross check each item listed on post #1. I found a couple minor cases where I had to use different values based on my truck's build features. CCM calibration was straightforward - took about 3-4 minutes to get to 99% (before having even encountered a single other car on the road), then it hung at 99 until I reached the highway and found other cars to drive behind, then it finished in a matter of minutes. ACC and LC started working right away.

I am thrilled with the result and still in disbelief that I managed to put the truck back together without breaking anything. If anybody is interested, I have about 17 feet left of the wire bundle (4 wires with the correct color codes, twisted and wrapped in fabric tape). PM me if interested and it's yours.

 

[Azgunguy]

Success! Just got back from calibrating / testing and everything worked out smoothly. Thanks to @Azgunguy and @ZSC100 and everyone else who has contributed to making this amazing mod accessible.

I have a '23 Pro with missing wires at the IPMA. (I have max tow and pro power, but no tow tech). Following @Azgunguy's footsteps, I ran wires directly from the CCM pigtail to the IPMA. For the bumper removal process I followed @KurtsRPMGarage's excellent video.

I took the great advice from @ZSC100 to incorporate a Deutsch DT connector for easy disconnect in case of future bumper removal. You can see the four green wires from the CCM pigtail going into this connector in the picture below. From the other side of the Deutsch connector it was more or less a straight shot through the firewall into the IPMA. I bought the color-coded wires and wrapped them in automotive fabric tape.

Routing the wires was relatively straightforward. I did the same thing as @Azgunguy: pierced through the large rubber grommet at the firewall and fed the wire in from the inside.

Here's what it looks like from the inside:

And here's a couple pictures of the before and after adding the wires to the IPMA connector. I bought the crimp connectors from DigiKey (part # 1924955-1) and for $3.31 I also bought the IPMA connector (part # 2288276-1) just so that I could practice some crimping and inserting. Thanks to @ZSC100 for providing these part numbers. I already had a good crimping tool.

I took my time with FORscan (maybe about 1.5-2 hours) and got everything working first try! I used Livinitup's spreadsheet to cross check each item listed on post #1. I found a couple minor cases where I had to use different values based on my truck's build features. CCM calibration was straightforward - took about 3-4 minutes to get to 99% (before having even encountered a single other car on the road), then it hung at 99 until I reached the highway and found other cars to drive behind, then it finished in a matter of minutes. ACC and LC started working right away.

I am thrilled with the result and still in disbelief that I managed to put the truck back together without breaking anything. If anybody is interested, I have about 17 feet left of the wire bundle (4 wires with the correct color codes, twisted and wrapped in fabric tape). PM me if interested and it's yours.

That’s awesome! Congrats!

 

[Jasontn316]

If anyone is interested, I will sell them the distance sensor without the bracket for $250 shipped. I sold my XLT and upgraded to a Lariat. Rather than pulling the whole truck apart, I just removed the sensor. I did crack the holder housing, not the sensor, and glued it back. You can see it on the bracket's left side where it is glued, but it isn't going anywhere. The sensor was used for 10 months and works fine. (ml3t-9g678-ah) and this is the bracket you will need ML3Z-14C022-B to complete ML3Z-9E731-G. Also if interested, I will sell a rain sensor for $20 shipped or $15 together.

 

[rraustad]

Success! ACC works like a charm and lane keeping assist is tighter now. The only glitch was having to program APIM and IPMA values before copying IPMA 706-19-01 through 706-19-04 to CCM 764-01-01 through 764-01-04 because the CCM module did not show up prior to programming IPMA. The other thing was when changing ABS 760-03-01 *xxx -- (4 to C) the truck freaked out a little and reported several things weren't working (e.g., one pedal drive, pre-collision assist, etc.) but everything calmed down once all programming was completed. I don't even have to touch the accelerator or brake when driving in city traffic. Thank you @Brotato for this post. The only negative is ACC turns off when stopped at a red light. That's not that big of a deal since I just one-button restart cruise control when the light turns green.

 

[bpcunning]

First off, great instructions and a really nice DIY upgrade, thanks for all the guidance.

I did the remote auto windows change to test out Forscan and didn't have any issues, but I'm wondering if I got something off when doing this upgrade. Each time I start my truck now, in addition to the "Return to Sport?" I get an additional prompt for "Pre-Collision Assist" and the box is slightly different than the Sport mode (slightly wider or more to the right, text at the top instead of centered, highlighted option is a little different), almost like it's from a different version of the UI. If I press OK it goes back into Sport regardless of which dialog is on top and I can't dismiss the Pre-Collision Assist, I just have to wait for it to time out. In fact pressing OK again puts me in Calm Screen (as shown). Did I get a digit wrong somewhere? I haven't seen anything else about this in the thread or on reddit. Notably one Forscan change was different for me, I had 388 for BCM 726-16-01 xxxx x*** xx-- (384 to 390), and changed it to 390 to follow the instructions. I also had the same issue as @rraustad regarding the APIM and IPMA changes needed to be done first to enable/see CCM, but after that it seemed to work fine (other than me forgetting the SCCM change to enable the buttons on the first drive, that I know was user error)

 

[ZSC100]

First off, great instructions and a really nice DIY upgrade, thanks for all the guidance.

I did the remote auto windows change to test out Forscan and didn't have any issues, but I'm wondering if I got something off when doing this upgrade. Each time I start my truck now, in addition to the "Return to Sport?" I get an additional prompt for "Pre-Collision Assist" and the box is slightly different than the Sport mode (slightly wider or more to the right, text at the top instead of centered, highlighted option is a little different), almost like it's from a different version of the UI. If I press OK it goes back into Sport regardless of which dialog is on top and I can't dismiss the Pre-Collision Assist, I just have to wait for it to time out. In fact pressing OK again puts me in Calm Screen (as shown). Did I get a digit wrong somewhere? I haven't seen anything else about this in the thread or on reddit. Notably one Forscan change was different for me, I had 388 for BCM 726-16-01 xxxx x*** xx-- (384 to 390), and changed it to 390 to follow the instructions. I also had the same issue as @rraustad regarding the APIM and IPMA changes needed to be done first to enable/see CCM, but after that it seemed to work fine (other than me forgetting the SCCM change to enable the buttons on the first drive, that I know was user error)
(images removed)

What remote auto windows change are you talking about. Link to thread?

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