ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[RellIk&5]

Are you sure that isn’t the IPC update? I had that happen to me and that 99000 update blocks takes about 5 hours.

Afterwords you may get a bunch of orange modules but do a test on each one with a clear DTC and retest and they should come back green.

How do I test each orange box and clear it? I didn’t see how to do that in FDRS.

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[speedracercjr]

My truck is going to fight me the whole way it seems, but I'm more stubborn. Finally the GWM finished updating and got out of the restart loop and is now at the right level. Currently working on the TCU and I guess the last big APIM is after that.

 

[Snakebitten]

Your tenacity is inspiring!

 

[TJSparky]

My truck is going to fight me the whole way it seems, but I'm more stubborn. Finally the GWM finished updating and got out of the restart loop and is now at the right level. Currently working on the TCU and I guess the last big APIM is after that.

Go get’m brah!

 

[tonesto7]

My truck is going to fight me the whole way it seems, but I'm more stubborn. Finally the GWM finished updating and got out of the restart loop and is now at the right level. Currently working on the TCU and I guess the last big APIM is after that.

I think you will have another APIM and GWM after those. :|

 

[RellIk&5]

I’m on my second battery charger and neither have been able to keep my battery charged during the IPC update. I’m at 40k blocks out of 90k and down to 6.3v. Not sure why it keeps draining the battery and the charger is not able to keep it charged.

 

[TJSparky]

I’m on my second battery charger and neither have been able to keep my battery charged during the IPC update. I’m at 40k blocks out of 90k and down to 6.3v. Not sure why it keeps draining the battery and the charger is not able to keep it charged.

I ended up with one of these as it provides a power supply as if the vehicle is running. It’s the one iceman recommends in the instructions he created.

Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ESQW0...t_i_5R7REJ3BY85GC7YE6BFH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[iceman77]

I’m on my second battery charger and neither have been able to keep my battery charged during the IPC update. I’m at 40k blocks out of 90k and down to 6.3v. Not sure why it keeps draining the battery and the charger is not able to keep it charged.

What kind of charger are you using ? How many AMPs can it supply ? 6.3V is dangerously low! I would be “pooping my pantalones” should my battery voltage drop below 11.5V. Ford recommends maintaining 12.5V or more during module SW update. You are risking bricking your module

 

[iceman77]

I ended up with one of these as it provides a power supply as if the vehicle is running. It’s the one iceman recommends in the instructions he created.

Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ESQW0...t_i_5R7REJ3BY85GC7YE6BFH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That’s the one I am using myself! I am very happy with this charger/maintainer. It has a power supply mode, which serves well for this purpose

 

[RellIk&5]

What kind of charger are you using ? How many AMPs can it supply ? 6.3V is dangerously low! I would be “pooping my pantalones” should my battery voltage drop below 11.5V. Ford recommends maintaining 12.5V or more during module SW update. You are risking bricking your module

it was a duralast 15amp. It had 3 amp maintain. I exchanged it for the duralast 75amp ( https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...amp-engine-starter-battery-charger/567693_0_0) so we’ll see if that works. The update fails once my battery hits 5.7 and then I have to jump my truck.

I do have that one you recommended on order but Amazon probably won’t deliver it until late tomorrow afternoon. Worst case is I try again with this other Duralast charger and if it still won’t maintain my battery then I just shutdown FDRS before my charge drops too low below 11volts and start the update again once Amazon delivers

 

[RellIk&5]

Also. Are you all using the negative battery terminal or the big ground post next to the battery?

 

[iceman77]

Also. Are you all using the negative battery terminal or the big ground post next to the battery?

There is a long bolt sticking out next to the battery securing the battery strap. That’s where I have connected the negative terminal of the charger/maintainer

 

[JEB]

There is a long bolt sticking out next to the battery securing the battery strap. That’s where I have connected the negative terminal of the charger/maintainer

That’s what I use as well. The owner’s manual says to not connect anything to the negative battery terminal, including a charger. Apparently, it messes with the truck learning the battery state of charge.

As for a charger/maintainer, I use a 10 amp NOCO. Works great. Kept the battery above 12v during a 4-hour IPMA update. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Snakebitten]

I too would be nervous at anything under 12 on these trucks. They are rolling computers on wheels.
I'm a bit skeptical, to be honest. At that low of voltage I'd expect the truck to be dormant. Unresponsive. Certainly wouldn't start, right?

 

[Bob_Mac]

There is a long bolt sticking out next to the battery securing the battery strap. That’s where I have connected the negative terminal of the charger/maintainer

This has been added to the doc. Also added, my friend that's a retired Ford Master Tech stated to use the 10amp setting on the charger/maintainer at a minimum.

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