ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[PJnc284]

yeah I wouldn't do anything less 75amps since the battery is tiny and those updates can draw 60amps+ for several hours. Some have piggy backed two PL2320s and still had the update crap out. You "might" get away with it by making sure the 12v is fully charged and you're only doing one non-usb update but not sure I'd chance it for a few hundred dollars. I used a Powermax PMBC-75 (~$300) when I did my 6hr+ marathon. The 100 amp options range from a little over $400 for the clore pl6100 to $500+ for the shumacher INC100.

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[21st Century Truck]

There are cheaper options out there that work. Maybe someone else can chine in with what they used; or check the FDRS thread on the Mach E forum for other options. I know @Mike G used two Clore PL2320's at the same time for a while with success.

I believe You can piggyback the Clores. Several on Mach E Forum have reported this with success.

 

[Mike G]

I believe You can piggyback the Clores. Several on Mach E Forum have reported this with success.

You can but they need to be plugged in to separate household circuits in order for one of them to not 'quit' in the middle of programming. I've done it. But others have reported that when they did it one of the two units stopped producing power and so their voltage dropped as a result. I suspect they had both 2320s plugged in to the same extension cord when that happened.

I did go out and buy a Clore PL6100 two years ago and have had no problems since.

However there are plenty of alternatives to a $400 powersupply and lots of folks on here have come up with their own.

My favorite is the Iota DLS-75 which will do the job nicely. Right now somebody is selling one on Ebay for about 50 bucks. So it doesn't have to be expensive. Just gotta look around.

A note on the Iota units. Unless there's a load on them they are completely silent and have no LED to indicate that power is being supplied. So you might think it's not working when it is. The internal fan won't kick in until a load is being pulled.

 

[bmwhitetx]

One other thing to remember is to keep the 12V charge cables as short as possible. You should put the charger close to where you’re connecting to the vehicle and just run a longer 120V extension cord to the wall outlet.

Iota puts out a document that explains this and has recommended cable length for various currents and wire size:
https://www.iotaengineering.com/api...14/2024+14:15:16&DOC_Type=Technical_Bulletins

I have decided to use 3 feet of #8 which is good for 65 amps. But you could also get by with 1.5 feet of cable and #10.

Poor practice would be to put the charger 10-15 feet away and run 12 gauge. At 60 amps the voltage drop would be significant.

 

[sstevetx]

I initially went the dual 2320 route since I already had a 2320. Seemed like a much cheaper alternative at the time. Worked well at first (separate circuits), but some updates used more than the 40a and there were a few pucker moments when I dropped in the 9v range. I ended up buying a pl6100 and run it off the dedicated circuit my EV charger uses. It is definitely a better power supply with plenty of room at 100a max. I no longer suggest the dual pl2320s due to the 40a max limit.

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