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Electrician wants to put in a Disconnect for the FCSP

Maquis

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There is no code problem with this, but you could conceivably run into a grumpy inspector who tries to find or invent one.
I have a special disdain for inspectors who try to make up their own rules. I wouldn’t hesitate to go over his head.
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Zprime29

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I don't recall a disconnect for my FCSP install, however the main panel is on the same wall, just on the exterior. They ran about 5-6ft of conduit and then straight through the wall into the garage. I suppose the proximity to the main panel counts?
 

ddimit

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I don't recall a disconnect for my FCSP install, however the main panel is on the same wall, just on the exterior. They ran about 5-6ft of conduit and then straight through the wall into the garage. I suppose the proximity to the main panel counts?
To a reasonable person/Inspector, Yes. however YMMV.
 
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jt253035

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Lightning (the sky type) likes underground cables. With a separate breaker in-between your house and the charge point you lessen (not eliminate) the chance of house entry of a strike.
I am having a whole home surge protector put into the main panel, anyone else do this and have recommendations on what kind to use?
 

Maquis

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I am having a whole home surge protector put into the main panel, anyone else do this and have recommendations on what kind to use?
I have a Square-D SDSA1175 installed on my panel. I’m brand-loyal to Square-D going back to my days as a plant engineer when we used their industrial power distribution and motor control equipment. I’ve had no failures of electronics that I can attribute to power surges, but can’t prove that’s because of this protection - you can’t prove a negative.
 

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I am having a whole home surge protector put into the main panel, anyone else do this and have recommendations on what kind to use?
I installed a Siemens First Surge FS-140. Can't prove a negative, but it has persevered through severe electrical storms.
 

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I am having a whole home surge protector put into the main panel, anyone else do this and have recommendations on what kind to use?
I had this installed at the recommendation of my electrician.

Ford F-150 Lightning Electrician wants to put in a Disconnect for the FCSP 1713468560902-zl
 

farmtruck

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All three FCSPs I have installed were with disconnects per code requirement. The energy audits required a new transformer at one site, thankfully no cost to me.
 

reffahcs

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That is not a propor disconnect.
Which is why I wanted to bring it to the attention of the op.
These disconnects are designed for AC units and not for 100% usage, invest in a knife-style lockable disconnect.
Yeah I've seen the video a few times. That's exactly the reason why I posted it, so the op wouldn't end up in the same situation as the poor man in the video.
 
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jt253035

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Which is why I wanted to bring it to the attention of the op.

Yeah I've seen the video a few times. That's exactly the reason why I posted it, so the op wouldn't end up in the same situation as the poor man in the video.
Really appreciate all of the information as I am may be spending a little more money on the install but I will have a lot less stress knowing that what I am getting is going to be correct. Plan on copper the whole way and getting a fused disconnect. My electrician was very happy to talk about each component and can’t wait for it to go in. Thank you all for the great information.
 

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Maquis

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I had this installed at the recommendation of my electrician.

1713468560902-zl.png
For maximum effectiveness, the wires from the surge suppressor to the breaker should be as short as possible, not looped like that.
 

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Oversizing wire on long runs keeps the Voltage drop down and then when an EVSE is limiting current, say 40A, the total kW of power is better, right? Or does Voltage matter that much?
 

Newton

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Voltage does matter which is why your electrician or engineer will do calculations if the runs are really long. However oversizing the wires will not give you any more performance. I like the way you are thinking, though, so the better approach is to have the electrician wire in a hefty subpanel near to your charger and attach from there. That gives you options for the future. Even better would be to do a consultation with a green energy company to see what they recommend for an electrical backbone assuming that you go whole hog into solar and batteries - a nice fat subpanel located near the batteries, ev, and solar entry point would be a good thing to have.

Even if the current technology doesn't meet you needs, the field is changing rapidly (and prices are falling for lithium) so there might be some really compelling stuff in the near future. I really wish I had done a subpanel, I added a heat pump hot water heater, heat pump + air conditoner and now a second EV charger for the Lightning. My garage is beginning to look a little sloppy, and now we are talking about solar and batteries.
 

belement

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Highly recommend a fused disconnect. I had a 60amp sub panel in my garage and ended upgrading it to a 100amp knowing that a lightning could be in my future but left the wiring for the old 60amp service. Well then the GF picked up a Kia EV6 so I thought why not just utilize the old 60 amp service for her charger so I could still use my charger at full power. Besides code it comes down to not having to run into the house in case something bad happens and I even went with old type fast blow fuses instead of slow blow to help protect.
Ford F-150 Lightning Electrician wants to put in a Disconnect for the FCSP 1000001832
 

Mmiketa

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#1 AL or #3 CU.
You can't really give that answer as it will depend on how long his run is. You have to account for voltage drop over the run which could require he upsize his wiring, the rule of thumb is 3% for a branch circuit.
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