Front brake caliper bracket torque

[408sbfmustang]

Hello, looking for the Ford publication that states what the front brake caliper brackets to knuckle should be torqued to and if the bolts are one time use.
I’m asking due to my truck had the ball joint recall two weeks ago and they ended up replacing both steering knuckles . Well after the brake assist/ABS kicked on yesterday the left front caliper came loose and was making a noise when I would hit a bump or reflector.
They are claiming they didn’t torque them correctly but I tried to see if I could tighten them before I call them and I couldn’t tighten or loosen the bolt. I was able to spin the washer.

 

[TaxmanHog]

184 ft/lb, note those bolts are single use, probably with Loctite on factory replacements

 

[408sbfmustang]

Thank you

 

[Whammy Bar]

IMO, don't touch anything. They touched it last, they broke it. They get to fix it. Park it and get it put on a flatbed back to that dealershit.

The minute you touch it, you might be the one to own it. These are the times we now live in.

 

[Henry Ford]

Those bolts were installed finger tight. One time use or torqued to spec is not critical. Actually using a wrench is super critical.

While I appreciate what @Whammy Bar is saying I'd probably just fix it myself and check the torque on anything else that was worked on. Whoever did that has already proven they don't have the aptitude, process, and/or respect for your safety to do any more work on that.

 

[408sbfmustang]

So when I called them today they sent out a tow truck right away and got me a rental car. The service manager and head service writer had their lead tech inspect the work and torque all the bolts that were touched per the manual. I’m going to ask if the caliper bolts were changed.

 

[Heliian]

When installing these bolts, my rule of thumb is always tight as you can go with a standard wrench and then a couple of hits with a hammer on the wrench to lock them on real good.

But ya, RTFM.

 

[TaxmanHog]

While I appreciate what @Whammy Bar is saying I'd probably just fix it myself and check the torque on anything else that was worked on. Whoever did that has already proven they don't have the aptitude, process, and/or respect for your safety to do any more work on that.

The technician and dealership need to QA kick in the ass and maybe firing, feedback to the dealer via UNTOUCHED is the right answer, many of us shade tree mechanics could fix the issue, but not the poor quality of the technicians future work.

 

[RickKeen]

When installing these bolts, my rule of thumb is always tight as you can go with a standard wrench and then a couple of hits with a hammer on the wrench to lock them on real good.

But ya, RTFM.

If tightening torque is not specified or a torque wrench is not convenient, torque until they yield, then back off 1/4 turn.

 

[RickKeen]

I had a dispute with a shop that worked on my brakes (long time ago on a previous vehicle) and they wanted to charge me several extra hours because they snapped off a couple of the caliper bolts trying to get it apart. They tried to blame it on whoever worked on the brakes last, the age of the truck, and sometimes these things happen.

Problem was, they were the one who did the previous brake job on the truck a few years earlier and I still had the receipt in the glove box. They tried to still charge me full book price for the brake job.

I stuck to my guns and only paid what they had advertised in their promotional brake job price which was the whole reason I brought it to them to start with.

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