Moving, and taking FCSP with me

[marlin1060]

Right now I have my FCSP installed in my garage, the wire runs through the ceiling, along the wall and into the charger. When I move I'm taking the FCSP with me, and want to know what would be the correct way to leave the end of the electrical wire?

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[Maquis]

I would install a breaker lock in the panel (should only be a few dollars) and tape up the loose wires.

 

[Pioneer74]

When I move, I'm removing the circuit completely.

You could install a lockable disconnect in place of the FCSP. That would make everything safe and code compliant.

 

[marlin1060]

I'll have to see if google can help me out with what you're talking about.
Thanks for the response.

 

[Pioneer74]

I'll have to see if google can help me out with what you're talking about.
Thanks for the response.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens...e-Safety-Switch-with-Neutral-GF223N/205623364

 

[chl]

Consult an electrician who will properly terminate the wire by placing them inside a standard junction box and capping the ends with wire nuts and tape.

The wires could be relocated up into the ceiling and the junction box put there.

This often requires a permit and inspection to ensure it has been done correctly.

If you had a long run of #3awg copper wires and #6awg for the ground wire (for the max 80A current the FCSP can handle) then you may want to have the wire removed and reclaimed - the electrician might do that in exchange for keeping the wire. The wire is pretty expensive.

In that case, the electrician can remove the breaker and reclaim it as well, being sure to close up the space where the breaker was located using approved closures.

I am not a licensed electrician but I have read up on this situation before in the NEC.

 

[RickLightning]

Great advice.

Another option, turn off breaker. Tape note over it. Cap each wire, then tape them together into a bundle, so it is just a big tape clump at the end. Label it.

 

[Toby57]

I suggest you bring what is left up to local code.
If you sell the property, the buyer may have it inspected. Before close they will want it fixed, on your dime.

 

[Maquis]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens...e-Safety-Switch-with-Neutral-GF223N/205623364

Or a 100A subpanel for about 1/4 the price of that switch.

 

[HHI-Lightning]

I would install a 50amp dryer outlet, and swap the breaker to 50 amp.

 

[flyct]

A sub panel, a 50 amp outlet etc will not work if the original FCSP was wired without a neutral. I would just have an electrician properly disable the circuit.

My cabin must have had a hot tub installed on the patio at one time. You can see the outline on the cement deck where it was installed. There’s a 50 AMP GFCI in the breaker panel and the wires are capped in a junction box on the patio wall. It’s nice that they left it all there so in the future I could repurpose it if I had a need.

 

[SpaceEVDriver]

In our area, new builds are required to include a >= 50A EVSE service connection (not the EVSE, just the circuit).

Assuming you're selling the place:
I would consider terminating the wires in a junction box at the former location of the FCSP, labeling it as "EV Charger" and swapping the 100A breaker for a 60A breaker in the panel. Then you can advertise the place as "EV Ready." Heck, for just a few hundred dollars more, I'd even consider having a L2 EVSE installed so it's fully ready for the new owners. Since the main cost of labor to install the circuit is already paid, it's a relatively cheap upgrade that could potentially open up your buyer market a bit more.

 

[Pioneer74]

Or a 100A subpanel for about 1/4 the price of that switch.

The lack of a neutral wire is what made me think the disconnect would be a better option.

 

[Pioneer74]

In our area, new builds are required to include a >= 50A EVSE service connection (not the EVSE, just the circuit).

Assuming you're selling the place:
I would consider terminating the wires in a junction box at the former location of the FCSP, labeling it as "EV Charger" and swapping the 100A breaker for a 60A breaker in the panel. Then you can advertise the place as "EV Ready." Heck, for just a few hundred dollars more, I'd even consider having a L2 EVSE installed so it's fully ready for the new owners. Since the main cost of labor to install the circuit is already paid, it's a relatively cheap upgrade that could potentially open up your buyer market a bit more.

The fusable disconnect would work in this situation. You leave the 100 amp branch circuit alone, snd fuse the disconnect at the appropriate size for the new load.

 

[Maquis]

The lack of a neutral wire is what made me think the disconnect would be a better option.

Good point.

I used a subpanel ($28 without the breaker) for my local disconnect and labeled it accordingly. If I ever move and take the FCSP with me, I’ll leave this panel.

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