F150 Lightning Audio Builds (Anybody Done One?) Why Not?

[BennyTheBeaver]

Do you mind sharing the model # or a link for the Infinity Reference speakers?

REF-6532IX

I bought it from Crutchfield. They include all the parts needed. I bought the speaker baffles off Amazon, they aren't necessary.

They sound good compared to the factory speaker, highs and mids are much clearer in the back. The original paper cones were so muddy. I didn't want to install a component system and adding a tweeter. This serves its purpose for under $100.

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[kvasiir]

@kvasiir did you get that system installed yet? If so what are your thoughts?

The shop im using received (or ordered) the wrong harness so waiting for another one to come in. Install is happening next week regardless (may just cut the wires).

My kit had a lead time of six weeks, so I'm not expecting to see any equipment until mid-January. Then I've gotta figure out how to schedule my life to get some good blocks of time together for installation. I'll certainly report in here as it comes along!

 

[GDN]

I pulled the trigger a few weeks back and bought a system from MTI. More than I ever thought I'd spend on such, but it arrived in 5 BIG boxes the last week or so. Luckily with a quiet weekend and I hope a couple of days off this next week I'm hoping to finish the install this week. It is time consuming if you treat the doors as they all suggest.

The rest of the doors will go just like this first one, I'll put a full post together after its done, but the factory speakers have such small "motors" / magnets, super super cheap.

I do want to get the 4 doors finished and hear new quality speakers with the factory amp just to see the difference they make - then I'll swap in the new amps and sub.

 

[Greased Lightning]

@G That access panel is interesting. I assume thats in case the window/motor should ever need servicing. Looks like an excellent source or rattle in a high powered system.

let us know your thoughts after hearing the new speakers on the b&o amp. I suspect it will be significantly better and low to mid level volumes but have the same frequencies cut at higher volumes.

@kvasiir you did mention that lead time previously. If it’s hard for me to wait for your system to arrive I can only imagine how you feel.

I love my Lightning so much, but I spend at least 2 hours a day alone in the car and really like to jam out. The stock system really kills my mood when I try.

 

[GDN]

@G That access panel is interesting. I assume thats in case the window/motor should ever need servicing. Looks like an excellent source or rattle in a high powered system.

let us know your thoughts after hearing the new speakers on the b&o amp. I suspect it will be significantly better and low to mid level volumes but have the same frequencies cut at higher volumes.

@kvasiir you did mention that lead time previously. If it’s hard for me to wait for your system to arrive I can only imagine how you feel.

I love my Lightning so much, but I spend at least 2 hours a day alone in the car and really like to jam out. The stock system really kills my mood when I try.

The sound material is behind the edge of the access panel too, but I don't know why they added the cut outs - those are machine screws with locking nuts, but there is no way to take the inner panel off without taking the bigger panel off. Both MTI and SGS - Sounds Good Stereo, use these panels (I don't think SGS has the inner cut out).

Knowing that both MTI and SGS use them even on their highest end builds I don't expect them to rattle (they are 1/4" thick) but I do have a couple of questions I'm sending to MTI about the inner panel cut out.

 

[Greased Lightning]

@GDN Oh, that’s part of the kit? Factory would be the flappy plastic? I’m sure that will be a huge improvement over the sheet of plastic.

 

[GDN]

@GDN Oh, that’s part of the kit? Factory would be the flappy plastic? I’m sure that will be a huge improvement over the sheet of plastic.

Correct - it is rigid and has about 16 screws in it. I'll take a picture of what came out - it is just a heavy plastic. I will note that it had a very good bead of sealant around it. Ford has done a pretty good job evolving the F150 and the build is good.

The insane thing I've found - for a DOOR - there is a HUGE amount of wiring and modules in it. Kind of blows you away. I don't see any reason they would put a "control module" (the big square one down low which I did not remove) in the door, seems it would be much better protected just inside the dash with any wires needed running to sensors in the door. Very near the middle of the door you'll see a sensor held in with two screws, I looked the part number up and it is a collision sensor that would trigger air bags, that one I understand.

 

[nanohead]

I too was wondering about upgrading the audio. I've had installs in some of my cars that cost more than the car itself. Have some great speakers on the shelf in my garage that I will install. Have multiple sets of Hybrid Audio 6.5 inch widebands that I plan on putting a set into the front doors at least. Rears, we'll see, probably some 2 way something or other.

FYI, like the JL audio part, there are DSPs that are super low draw at 12V, as well as some compact Class D amps that actually do make noise. I've had good luck with both Mosconi as well as Helix (my preferred units lately, better SW)

And Soundstream makes a really decent line of tiny amps that you can get close to the speakers... called Stealth. I've used them in 2 of my kids Jeep Cherokee's where there's literally no room for any real amps.

12V current draw is definitely going to be a challenge here for amplification.

Curious if anyone will make a T Harness that we can draw speaker level outputs from behind the head unit.... We also have a Mach E and I believe there is a T Harness that is available.

 

[kvasiir]

12V current draw is definitely going to be a challenge here for amplification.

This forum post has a Ford bulletin that says 55 A are available for aftermarket equipment. 660 W (plus some battery buffering) should be good enough for me. I guess we'll find out! Presumably there is some headroom in the full 220 A available from the DC/DC anyway.

 

[nanohead]

This forum post has a Ford bulletin that says 55 A are available for aftermarket equipment. 660 W (plus some battery buffering) should be good enough for me. I guess we'll find out! Presumably there is some headroom in the full 220 A available from the DC/DC anyway.

Thanks for that. It was informative. 55A is super tight, OMFG. Enough for maybe a DSP and a 500W amp at most. I guess I'll amplify the front speakers only (door wideband and tweeter). No idea how to power a sub AND the front soundstage....

Wow, that's like nothing. Fortunately, we can all work with hyper sensitive and efficient speakers if we can find them.

I wonder if we can remove the power circuit requirement to the factory amp to free up some more current supply.

 

[kvasiir]

Well, you’re also taking out the old amp. So that will give you some room just by itself. And then if you don’t run a bunch of other 12 V stuff at full blast you’ll have a lot more capacity to work with.

My kit from SGS has ~1000 W worth of amplifiers. You’ll see here how well it ends up working out!

Edit:
And now that I think about it there are plenty of kW of 120 V available all over the truck. Worst case we should be able to get a huge 12 V DC power supply and just use that. The EE in me chafes at the inefficiencies of going from 400 Vdc to 120 Vac to 12 Vdc, but whatever gets the job done, I guess.

Edit 2:
Example

 

[GDN]

Thanks for that. It was informative. 55A is super tight, OMFG. Enough for maybe a DSP and a 500W amp at most. I guess I'll amplify the front speakers only (door wideband and tweeter). No idea how to power a sub AND the front soundstage....

Wow, that's like nothing. Fortunately, we can all work with hyper sensitive and efficient speakers if we can find them.

I wonder if we can remove the power circuit requirement to the factory amp to free up some more current supply.

I'm in the same boat as @kvasiir - I'm putting in a 660/6 for the doors/tweeters and 500 for the sub. That is maximum output. I'm in this more for SQ than loudness. The system will never pull all of that power. MTI tells me they've installed multiple Lightnings with no problem. I'll know in a week or so.

 

[nanohead]

I'm in the same boat as @kvasiir - I'm putting in a 660/6 for the doors/tweeters and 500 for the sub. That is maximum output. I'm in this more for SQ than loudness. The system will never pull all of that power. MTI tells me they've installed multiple Lightnings with no problem. I'll know in a week or so.

Same here. Only really care about SQ....

 

[Greased Lightning]

The 8 speaker b&o system is rated at 640 watts. I would assume that’s peak, so you’re freeing up around 320watts by not utilizing the stock amp. Either way I’m installing a 1000w RMS 5 channel amp and we’ll see how it goes.

 

[TX_Gator]

I’m in the planning phase on my audio upgrade and am already opportunistically picking up some components. My Lightning Lariat is scheduled for build this week.

I’m comparing solutions to convert the A2B digital audio signal to pre-amp RCA signal, while retaining the factory radio functionality and audible alerts.

Has anybody tried any of the A2B interface solutions? The effectiveness of the NavTV Zen A2B interface option is well documented for ICE F150s and it looks like a very reliable solution.

However, I am very intrigued by the offerings from Metra Axxess and Mobridge that combine the A2B interface with a built in DSP. Neither of these solutions seem to get much talk or publicity, but they look like an ideal ‘two birds with one stone’ option. I’m apprehensive to go with an unproven solution, but think I might roll the dice on one of them.

NavTV Zen
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp6a-a2b.html

Metra Axxess
https://metra-static.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/INSTAXDSPX-A2B2_web.pdf

Mobridge
https://www.wirelessaircard.com/mobridge-da-g2-pro-a2b-ford/

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