Level 2 from home.

[WhipSticks]

Good advice for future-proofing. But there is really no need to run copper to the subpanel. #1 aluminum is 1/3 the cost of #3 copper.

Yes. I often find myself using "copper" as shorthand for wiring in general. I'm old.

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[Maquis]

Yes. I often find myself using "copper" as shorthand for wiring in general. I'm old.

I wondered if that was the case. All good.

 

[Danface]

My 2 cents, use AWG #3 100 amp copper wire and just use the appropriate breaker for the amperage of the charger. No sense stepping over the dollars to save the pennies if you don't have to.

I got my wire at: https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/

 

[Danface]

Good advice for future-proofing. But there is really no need to run copper to the subpanel. #1 aluminum is 1/3 the cost of #3 copper.

Check to make sure you will not have any issues attaching the aluminum to the charger because of the diameter difference. My understanding is the lugs are just the right size for #3 copper

 

[Maquis]

Check to make sure you will not have any issues attaching the aluminum to the charger because of the diameter difference. My understanding is the lugs are just the right size for #3 copper

We were talking about powering a subpanel in the garage, not the FCSP. It is copper wire only.

 

[Ecstatic]

Ford Mobile Charger works great for me. No issues. I’m in Spokane. Gets down to zero degrees a few times a winter. The FMC was included with the truck. If I was buying a Lightning now there are better choices for EVSE at lower cost.

 

[djwildstar]

no garage. 0 to -10 degrees at the worst. i wonder if the fmc is insulatable, or if i can just replace it with a sturdier product? i don't want to use the ford pro because i will have to get a new breaker system.

If you have enough capacity to add a 14-50 outlet, you do NOT need a new breaker system to install a hard-wired charger for your truck. ALL of the Ford chargers can be "turned down" via an internal switch so that they can be installed on a lower-capacity circuit and breaker than the maximum possible. So the Ford Charge Station Pro that is included with your ER truck can be installed on a 100A circuit to provide 19.2kW (80A) charging power ... but also can be set to as little as 12A (2.88kW) so that it can be installed on a 15A circuit.

The Ford Charge Station Pro technical data lists its operational temperature range as -40F to +113F with a UL/NEMA Type 4 environmental rating. It should be just fine for use on the exterior of your house, without insulation or other protection. Available power levels (and the corresponding circuit breakers) are 2.88kW (15A), 3.84kW (20A), 5.76kW (30A), 7.68kW (40A), 9.6kW (50A), 11.52kW (60A), 15.76kW (80A), and 19.2kW (100A).

The other Ford hard-wired chargers (the Ford Connected Charge Station and the Ford Pro AC Charging Station for commercial/fleet customers) are similar but not identical. The Charge Station Pro actually has the best environmental protection and lowest operational temperature of the three. All have the ability to operate at lower power levels, all the way down to 2.88kW.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

Is there a detailed webpage with all the specs my electrician will need to know, in terms of volts/amps/breakers for the installation of a 240v outlet on the side of my house? I'm at the Ford website and they focus on the Ford Pro system. Maybe there's a thread somewhere here? Thanks.

1st; which EVSE are you installing? 2nd; all the specifics are in the manual for that EVSE.

For FCSP it's a 100A breaker and #3Cu with a #8Cu ground . If the distance you're running is significant (over 100') you might consider bumping up the wire size to stay at/under ~1.5% voltage drop. NEC recommends a max drop of 3%. Upsizing the current carrying conductors will also require upsizing the ground.

For any other 48A unit (include Ford Connected) #6 Cu with a 60A breaker and #10 Cu ground is the spec. Same caveat for voltage drop as above.

Highly recommend hardwiring the EVSE so you can get full ampacity. It's one less connection to get hot and fail in a high amperage circuit.

 

[chl]

Is there a detailed webpage with all the specs my electrician will need to know, in terms of volts/amps/breakers for the installation of a 240v outlet on the side of my house? I'm at the Ford website and they focus on the Ford Pro system. Maybe there's a thread somewhere here? Thanks.

Tell him/her to read the NEC section 625 at a minimum.

 

[F150LAQS]

1st; which EVSE are you installing? 2nd; all the specifics are in the manual for that EVSE.

For FCSP it's a 100A breaker and #3Cu with a #8Cu ground . If the distance you're running is significant (over 100') you might consider bumping up the wire size to stay at/under ~1.5% voltage drop. NEC recommends a max drop of 3%. Upsizing the current carrying conductors will also require upsizing the ground.

For any other 48A unit (include Ford Connected) #6 Cu with a 60A breaker and #10 Cu ground is the spec. Same caveat for voltage drop as above.

Highly recommend hardwiring the EVSE so you can get full ampacity. It's one less connection to get hot and fail in a high amperage circuit.

i've heard the FCSP can be dialed down to accommodate a lower amperage, say 48A. If so, I wouldn't need a 240 installed, and I wouldn't need a 100A circuit?

 

[TaxmanHog]

i've heard the FCSP can be dialed down to accommodate a lower amperage, say 48A. If so, I wouldn't need a 240 installed, and I wouldn't need a 100A circuit?

That configuration would require wiring and breaker for 60 amp at 240 volts.

 

[Lucky Larry]

See post #22 for all of the FCSP amperage settings.

 

[Jseis]

so a scenario like this? 240V x 40 amp = 9.6 kW ( use 50 amp NEMA 14-50 plug which is fairly common and needs 50 amp circuit). The Ford mobile charger is plugged into this it maxes at 32 amp so 7kW. I know its not fast, but it will work for my needs.

I used a 40 amp breaker (AWG 8 copper), but otherwise that’s exactly as I did and… cooked the Ford mobile charger after ~40,000 miles. I’d guess “mobile” doesn’t mean daily.

Swapped the 40 amp for a 50 Amp breaker and plugged in a Chargepoint Home Flex and it has worked very well for 8,800 miles. It recharges the ER’s battery at 9 KW 5 days a week nightly at 36-40 KWh and typically in ~4+ hours. In a garage that stays at 40 F in winter, 60 F in summer

 

[cdherman]

I decided to put a sub-panel in my dad's garage. The run from the main to the sub was only a few feet so I used copper. But I agree with the folks that suggest AL for a longer run.

I decided to run a 125A sub panel. In my case, the EVSE first installed will be on the outside wall, since the setup is NOT for the vehicle currently parked in the garage. I am thinking in the future, there will be the need for charging inside the garage as well (second EVSE) and I may as well be ready.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

i've heard the FCSP can be dialed down to accommodate a lower amperage, say 48A. If so, I wouldn't need a 240 installed, and I wouldn't need a 100A circuit?

Unless you have a VERY compelling reason to derate the device and the conductors, I suggest installing the full ampacity. You're introducing a potential hazard when the next owner (who does not know WTF they are doing) decides they want to charge at full rate, removes the software crutch, and burns up the wire.

Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I've seen how dumb even smart people can be. I see it as a potential future hazard. Ever yourself, an intelligent EV owner, mixed up the nomenclature by stating "I wouldn't need a 240 installed."

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