Factory 14-50 30 Amp Mobile Plug works with RV 50 Amp plug (at local RV resort)?

[Firn]

A Campground or RV Park's MAIN PANEL is not like your home.
(this is not referring to the pedestal at the campground site, which you plug into, but the pedestal MAIN PANEL it is fed from, somewhere on the campground property, usually within several hundred feet, and each site has it's own breaker WITHIN that main panel. The main panel generally serves several sites)

This main panel IS supportive of ALL potential breaker loads, from each and every site, not just 'some' breakers... Your home is different, as it is designed to support many loads at the same time, but, yes, can have more individual breakers that add up to more than the rated MAIN CUT OFF breaker, such as 200amps.

Campground pedestals, though, typically have a 50amp 240v outlet, a 30amp 120v outlet, and a set of 20amp 120v GFCI outlets... and are typically fed back to the Main Panel where they are under a 100amp 240v breaker, for that site's individual circuit, which is PLENTY to handle all the needs of that single site. The main panel, itself, might be under a 600amp main breaker, serving 6 different and individual sites.

Anyone who tells you that campground or RV park outlets 'share' power from a common circuit are just incorrect, though many may continue to believe that.
One of the aspects of camping is that the camper or RVs themselves, with their OWN breaker panels, can trip a breaker WITHIN the camper, when the owner decides to use too much power at one time, such as the air conditioner with the microwave with the converter with the electric water heater...all at the same time.
They then, unfortunately, 'assume' that the campground is the culprit.

Whenever a campground or RV park's site pedestal's breaker DOES trip, the owner may also automatically assume that the campground electrical wasn't designed properly. That's just bunk.
The breaker for the outlet is doing exactly what it is designed for.

Now, can there be a 'weak' or 'overused' campground breaker...ABSOLUTELY.
I've run into this many times, as I know very well that a typical 30amp 120v campground outlet can run both of my 13.5 roof air conditioners at the SAME TIME, but ONLY when the campground's 30amp breaker is newer and has not been weakened by years of use, overuse, and tripping on and off when campers are hooking up and unplugging... this is, unfortunately, very COMMON, and can add to the misunderstanding that many camper owners are faced with when a breaker trips.

I've had campground owner's jaws drop when I proved this to them. When THEIR breaker tripped, I would ask THEM to replace the 30amp breaker at my site, which they would initially balk on...

they had always 'heard' themselves for so many years that there is 'no way' you can do this... but when I convinced them to simply try replacing the 30amp breaker....'VOILA...suddenly both a/c's worked flawlessly and continuously for hours and hours on end.

'Tales' come from many places, and have for many years, and not because people aren't smart, in their own rights, but we, as humans, tend to 'spread' information that we've heard, and not what we've actually learned ourselves.
As a DIY'r, I don't take ANYBODY'S 'tales' as fact. Most of them are untrue, or off-base, at best.

Enjoy! I'm enjoying another RV park today, even using a 50amp extension cord for my camper to reach the 50amp outlet at the power pedestal...

That is not a correct statement, the size of the service is based upon demand factors, not the sum of the individual sites.

NEC 551.73(a) identifies that for campgrounds of over 36 sites the main service may be as little as 41% of the combined load. On top of that each pedestals is not calculated as a sum of each plug on the pedestal.

The individual circuits can FAR exceed the supply.

In your own example those 6 sites can utilize a service that is 60% of the sum of all sites.

https://up.codes/s/calculated-load

 

[hturnerfamily]

I don't think you've ever looked at the MAIN supplies at campgrounds and rv parks. They are not the 'minimum' you describe - they are completely suitable for ALL LOADs and ALL at the same time, for each individual site.
A typical 100 amp 240v Main breaker panel for each individual site means that they are COMPLETELY covered for all continuous uses - each site's breaker panel, itself, only consists of a total of up to 80/60 amps @ 120v on each side(combined 120v/240v), though it is almost inconceivable that ANY rv or any size would ever get to that Maximum, on it's own. It's own internal breaker(s) would trip before the campgrounds.
Each individual camper or rv or motorhome also already has their OWN internal main panels, designed more like your home's panel, and THAT is where the trip for overuse would typically happen, not at each site's breaker box, or even the park's Main Panel. In some instances the campground's site breakers are used so often that they become 'weak' from overusage, and sometimes they will 'nuisance' trip - but that is not due to park power being 'less than needed', but only because the BREAKER itself needs to be replaced.

 

[1Jetpilot]

It's really important you get the correct dogbone for charging an EV from a 30amp campground pedestal. I have this one and can confirm that it works. Remember, you will only get 120v out of the TT-30 receptacle at a campground so charging is much slower.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2MT4T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I kept getting charging error messages when using the dog bone I bought at a camping store. Is the link above made only for TVs? My motorhome was plugged into the 50 Amp and I tried to plug my dog bone into the 30 Amp and kept getting the error message. Would this one solve my problem and why?

 

[ddbrooke]

I kept getting charging error messages when using the dog bone I bought at a camping store. Is the link above made only for TVs? My motorhome was plugged into the 50 Amp and I tried to plug my dog bone into the 30 Amp and kept getting the error message. Would this one solve my problem and why?

It will and it has to do with the way it is wired internally. This video explains it in a long winded way but accurately shows how the dogbone adaptors are wired differently.

 

[Firn]

I don't think you've ever looked at the MAIN supplies at campgrounds and rv parks. They are not the 'minimum' you describe - they are completely suitable for ALL LOADs and ALL at the same time, for each individual site.
A typical 100 amp 240v Main breaker panel for each individual site means that they are COMPLETELY covered for all continuous uses - each site's breaker panel, itself, only consists of a total of up to 80/60 amps @ 120v on each side(combined 120v/240v), though it is almost inconceivable that ANY rv or any size would ever get to that Maximum, on it's own. It's own internal breaker(s) would trip before the campgrounds.
Each individual camper or rv or motorhome also already has their OWN internal main panels, designed more like your home's panel, and THAT is where the trip for overuse would typically happen, not at each site's breaker box, or even the park's Main Panel. In some instances the campground's site breakers are used so often that they become 'weak' from overusage, and sometimes they will 'nuisance' trip - but that is not due to park power being 'less than needed', but only because the BREAKER itself needs to be replaced.

You have been give THE electrical code, if you want to disagree with it and claim every campground ever put in more supply than needed then go ahead.

 

[1Jetpilot]

It will and it has to do with the way it is wired internally. This video explains it in a long winded way but accurately shows how the dogbone adaptors are wired differently.

Will this work with my RV 50 Amp extension cord?

 

[flyct]

Will this work with my RV 50 Amp extension cord?

NO NO NO!!! No neutral in that adapter. Beware of adapters listed for EVs since a neutral isn't required for an EV yet it is absolutely necessary for an RV.

What are you trying to use it for?

If you want to power your 50 amp RV from your Lightning 240 bed outlet this adapter works great. I have it and use it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6DQDQK4/

This one will also work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CDW1WKNR/

 

[1Jetpilot]

Ppppp


NO NO NO!!! No neutral in that adapter. What are you trying to use it for?

If you ant to power your 50 amp RV from your Lightning 240 bed outlet this adapter works great. I have it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6DQDQK4/

This one will also work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CDW1WKNR/

just trying to charge my Lightning in an RV camp site when only a 30 Amp is available since my RV is using the 50 Amp outlet. Need an extension cord for the Lightning so thought I would use my RV extension cord with the dog bone Parkworld dog bone.

 

[ddbrooke]

NO NO NO!!! No neutral in that adapter. Beware of adapters listed for EVs since a neutral isn't required for an EV yet it is absolutely necessary for an RV.

What are you trying to use it for?

If you want to power your 50 amp RV from your Lightning 240 bed outlet this adapter works great. I have it and use it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6DQDQK4/

This one will also work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CDW1WKNR/

Read his original question. He wants to charge his truck from a campground TT-30 receptacle so this is exactly what he needs for that purpose and that purpose only. The adaptor has a tag on it stating "EV Charging Only". Adding the extension cord for charging purposes changes nothing, it just extends his reach.

 

[flyct]

just trying to charge my Lightning in an RV camp site when only a 30 Amp is available since my RV is using the 50 Amp outlet. Need an extension cord for the Lightning so thought I would use my RV extension cord with the dog bone Parkworld doggone.

JetPilot Jerry,

The RV 30 amp outlet is only 120 volts. With the Ford mobile charger the only 2 options are 240v charge at 32 amps (7.6 kWs) and 120 volts at 12 amps (1.4 kWs) . If you use the RV 30 amp TT-30 receptacle you would need an adapter to convert the TT-30 to a standard household 120 volt 15 amp receptacle. Then use a standard extension cord to plug onto your Ford Mobile charger.

The 120 volt charger will be painfully SLOW. It only outputs 1.4 kws. At that rate if would add about 3 miles of range each hour plugged in. If towing you will get about 1 mile or towing range per hour on 120 v charge.

If you are there with your RV then a simpler solution if you need to charge with the L1- 120 v charger is to use your Ford mobile charger with it's 120v pigtail plugged into one of your RVs external 120 v outlets. You would still only get the same 1.4 kWs added per hour.

Signed, another Jerry with 3000 hours PIC

 

[potato]

just trying to charge my Lightning in an RV camp site when only a 30 Amp is available since my RV is using the 50 Amp outlet. Need an extension cord for the Lightning so thought I would use my RV extension cord with the dog bone Parkworld dog bone.

As others have said, the 30 amp is only 120 volts and the Lightning will only use 12 amps of it. So it's really really not a good option for charging.

Best setup is to use the 14-50 to charge the Lightning, at 30-40 amps depending what EVSE you use, then run the RV from the 30 amp outlet in the Lightning. Unless you actually need more than 30 amps for the RV.

 

[Maquis]

As others have said, the 30 amp is only 120 volts and the Lightning will only use 12 amps of it. So it's really really not a good option for charging.

Best setup is to use the 14-50 to charge the Lightning, at 30-40 amps depending what EVSE you use, then run the RV from the 30 amp outlet in the Lightning. Unless you actually need more than 30 amps for the RV.

The dongle sets the current. It doesn’t care about voltage. I know for a fact that if you feed the 120V dongle with 240V, the truck charges at 240V, 12A, doubling the normal L1 charge rate.
I suspect using the adapter shown will feed 120V to the 14-50 (30A) dongle resulting in charging at 120V, 30A.

 

[tls]

Aren't both 32 amp units?

No. The Ford mobile connector is limited to 30 amps while the second-generation Tesla UMC is limited to 32 amps. The first generation Tesla UMC will go to 40 amps.

Unfortunately the 120V current limitation is a vehicle firmware issue, not something imposed by the mobile connector. This means that even if you have a Tesla adapter and a Gen1 UMC in your truck, as I do, you cannot charge at 16A on a dedicated 20A 120V outlet, nor can you charge at 24A on a campground TT-30.

This is an idiotic restriction in the truck, a bug really, but it seems likely that demand for Ford to change it is low enough that they never will.

 

[1Jetpilot]

JetPilot Jerry,

The RV 30 amp outlet is only 120 volts. With the Ford mobile charger the only 2 options are 240v charge at 32 amps (7.6 kWs) and 120 volts at 12 amps (1.4 kWs) . If you use the RV 30 amp TT-30 receptacle you would need an adapter to convert the TT-30 to a standard household 120 volt 15 amp receptacle. Then use a standard extension cord to plug onto your Ford Mobile charger.

The 120 volt charger will be painfully SLOW. It only outputs 1.4 kws. At that rate if would add about 3 miles of range each hour plugged in. If towing you will get about 1 mile or towing range per hour on 120 v charge.

If you are there with your RV then a simpler solution if you need to charge with the L1- 120 v charger is to use your Ford mobile charger with it's 120v pigtail plugged into one of your RVs external 120 v outlets. You would still only get the same 1.4 kWs added per hour.

Signed, another Jerry with 3000 hours PIC

If I had to use a 120V, then what's the use? It would be like plugging it in the kitchen at home. I thought the 30 Amp would be a little less than the 240Amp but plenty faster than the 120V outlets, but I guess not. See no need to buy the EV Only pigtail from parkworld

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