New EVSE option: a BReAKER with built-in EV Charging: EATON

[Fastnf]

Here is a site that list it for $679.20 other sites seem to be higher. This is the lowest price I have found so far.

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[Maquis]

Here is a site that list it for $679.20 other sites seem to be higher. This is the lowest price I have found so far.

At that price, stick a fork in it - it’s done.

 

[Maquis]

Maybe it will survive as a new construction option? Ultimately, price will determine it's fate.

That’s probably the most likely application - new construction where the architect designs the garage space to specifically accommodate it.

 

[Fastnf]

Found a site with it for $482.44.

 

[PrimeRisk]

Here's an amazing new option for 'at home' charging: A new EV Charging BREAKER, all-in-one build... taking the place of our traditional EVSE MODULE...

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.BREVEM2040.html

https://videos.eaton.com/detail/videos/featured-videos/video/6346408151112/smart-ambinent-monitoring-30-sec-spot?autoStart=true&q=smart breaker

and, they also make this in a 'plug in' type if you already have an outlet nearby...

This could be very interesting, especially if your breaker box is in your garage or on the outside wall. Have you seen any pricing? I did a quick Google search and even hit up Greybar and Grainger, but nothing.

 

[PrimeRisk]

Found a site with it for $482.44.

I defer to your superior search skills.

Yikes, at $500, I'll stick with traditional EVSE equipment.

 

[Heliian]

Ya, why wouldn't you want to take up double the space in your panel for a limited power evse that costs more than standard options and requires an electritian to replace when it fails. .

Really though, once you look at the actual product line you'll see the market it's aiming for and it's expanded capabilities. It's good for multipoint, compact and billable applications. I would not recommend this to any homeowner.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I think the 'like' to this Eaton 'Built-in EVSE' Breaker set is that you are not only replacing the many different and various EVSE module options that all of us choose from, and replace it with a Dedicated 'direct from the panel' J1772 charge cable... but, this design is NOT simply just the Breaker, itself, it is the 'package' of the Breaker, the J1772 CABLE, a wall hanger, and, if you wish to run from much farther away from the panel, a 'connector' box that then allows this to run from much farther away... or, even the 'Plug In' option, if you have a NEMA 14-50 already nearby. The 'box', then, provides the new Breaker set, with the built-in EVSE, although you are powering it from an existing 50amp breaker set from somewhere else...

someone also mentioned the 'fit' to existing 'other model' panels, and yes, true, the individual breaker module WOULD have to fit your existing, or new, panel.... but, if you go the 'PLUG IN' option, using an existing 50amp outlet, you'll not need to worry about the breaker 'fit', since it will be within the 'box' that they provide.

I'm not sure the interchangeable fit between Eaton breakers and other makes... there is a 'push on' type, and a 'bolt on' type.

 

[Henry Ford]

$500 for a sub panel, breaker/EVSE, and cord actually seems very reasonable.

 

[chl]

I had bought the following during the Amazon Prime days for $120 CDN:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C8HP6NYC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Installed it at the cottage and it has been amazing. I was blowing my 40amp bussman fuses all the time - it would cost me $20 each time I had to replace one and over the summer I replaced them 3x.

I don't know why that was happening since my charger was setup at 32amps. So I installed this a few weeks ago and no issues. Plus it also gives me access to a 30-amp RV outlet as well as a GFCI protected 20-amp outlet.

Possibly a surge current blowing the fuse.
Was it a so-called time-delay fuse usually used to power reactive circuits, like motors, that have rush currents that exceed the 40A fuse running current rating?

 

[chl]

$500 for a sub panel, breaker/EVSE, and cord actually seems very reasonable.

Only a 40A circuit though, so it's a 32A EVSE.

Not that great time-wise for charging up a large ER battery.

Ford provides/sells you one of those 32A EVSE's, the Mobile Power Cord, with your Lightning purchase...for $500.

Not a fan of a wifi controlled breaker although I have no experience with them, but find wifi to be generally buggy and subject to all sorts of interference.

Might be a good option for some homes and charging situations, depending on the existing wiring etc.

 

[stickyfingers]

Possibly a surge current blowing the fuse.
Was it a so-called time-delay fuse usually used to power reactive circuits, like motors, that have rush currents that exceed the 40A fuse running current rating?

I am not sure. I can't use the Ford mobile cord that I have - it always blew my fuse. It's a 40A charger that can't be dialed down.

I have an amproad ev charger that I set to 32A charging which was still blowing the fuses. By adding this panel (no wifi), the fuses, hopefully, won't blow rather the breaker on this panel will trigger.

The bussman fuses are time-delayed.

 

[Mmiketa]

As it has been mentioned, I think this fits better for new construction. I work in that field and can see myself specifying this if we are doing residential work. 32A chargers are really the most common EVSE being specified at the moment on the projects I've been part of.

 

[chl]

I am not sure. I can't use the Ford mobile cord that I have - it always blew my fuse. It's a 40A charger that can't be dialed down.

I have an amproad ev charger that I set to 32A charging which was still blowing the fuses. By adding this panel (no wifi), the fuses, hopefully, won't blow rather the breaker on this panel will trigger.

The bussman fuses are time-delayed.

The MPC is supposed to draw 30A (or 32A some say) but yes it needs a 40A circuit b/c considered a "continuous load."

There have been some reported MCP failures/meltdowns so apparently it may not be suitable for everyday use anyway. Possibly the failed ones were drawing too much current for some reason and the components couldn't handle it.

Your fuse blowing indicates an overload above the rated 40A current for some reason.

I am assuming the 40A fuse circuit was dedicated to the EVSE only - that is, no other loads were on that circuit - and it had adequate sized wires, e.g., #8 AWG THWN for the hots (assuming a reasonable length of the wire run)?

I'm curious if the fuse blew right away or after running for some time?

I have seen some posts of people using fuse box circuits for their EVSE's without problems, so it is baffling.

I am an EE so determining the cause of these failure events interests me.

 

[stickyfingers]

The MPC is supposed to draw 30A (or 32A some say) but yes it needs a 40A circuit b/c considered a "continuous load."

There have been some reported MCP failures/meltdowns so apparently it may not be suitable for everyday use anyway. Possibly the failed ones were drawing too much current for some reason and the components couldn't handle it.

Your fuse blowing indicates an overload above the rated 40A current for some reason.

I am assuming the 40A fuse circuit was dedicated to the EVSE only - that is, no other loads were on that circuit - and it had adequate sized wires, e.g., #8 AWG THWN for the hots (assuming a reasonable length of the wire run)?

I'm curious if the fuse blew right away or after running for some time?

I have seen some posts of people using fuse box circuits for their EVSE's without problems, so it is baffling.

I am an EE so determining the cause of these failure events interests me.

Nice to emeet a fellow EE however I’m not a practicing professional.

The EV outlet is a dedicated circuit. We use the charger sparingly when we go up to the cottage maybe 6-8 times a year and usually only charge the truck once to
100% for our return trip home. My place is old and has the old bussman fuse panel (think of those screw in fuses). I use a bussman p-type time delayed cartridge fuse for the 40-amp circuit. I’m using 8 awg wire with approx 50ft run that goes under ground through a conduit.

Anyways, I can’t say for sure if this new panel install outside will resolve the issue. Time will tell. Haven’t been up to the place much lately to test it fully but the handful times we tried it’s been working.

what’s odd is that for a whole year I had no issues. Something over the past 6-months has caused this and nothing changed on the Infrastructure side. Maybe it was a truck update. Idk. In any event, I feel this outdoor panel may work.

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