Baffled and looking for advice, range vs plans

[cal]

Geeze I've never see this on any of the makes I typically I buy. Toyota, Honda, Acura, Lexus. Maybe it's been there and I just never knew (not sarcasm).

Very possible given how traditional car companies seem to try to impress you with tons of useless features.

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[invertedspear]

Here's a complaint from 2015 about the feature not being accurate: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1390413-distance-to-empty-really-lies.html

Some discussion in that thread about the feature and it's various levels of accuracy in older cars.

I know in my wife's 2014 wrangler the feature was buried in some menus. So it's totally possible you've just not discovered it before, and EVs really shove it in our face.

 

[Jseis]

So I had a similar thread - got some interesting feedback but for the most part i realized i jumped too soon on this EV ride. At least you are in an environment that remains above freezing. I am seeing close to 50% loss in range in 32 degree weather - terrified what sub zero will bring. All the feedback about 'don't use heat, drive 50MPH, head winds, elevation gain, - i get it but i did not realize i would have to change everything about my driving habits - had I done this level of grainular research before buying - i'd still be driving my ICE and happily paying for fuel.

Start simple: Set cabin heat at 65 F and Auto (heat) at 1 bar. Pre-condition.

Here’s the real issue. It takes about 30 minutes of driving for cabin energy use to average at 8% which it does in mid 30’s-40’s for me. Seat heat and steering wheel eat barely register if at all.

Sunny days in 30’s also allows solar insolation to assist in cabin heat due to the LT’s big “greenhouse“.

 

[Ventorum94]

So I had a similar thread - got some interesting feedback but for the most part i realized i jumped too soon on this EV ride. At least you are in an environment that remains above freezing. I am seeing close to 50% loss in range in 32 degree weather - terrified what sub zero will bring. All the feedback about 'don't use heat, drive 50MPH, head winds, elevation gain, - i get it but i did not realize i would have to change everything about my driving habits - had I done this level of grainular research before buying - i'd still be driving my ICE and happily paying for fuel.

It’s useful to monitor real-time efficiency in mi/kWh (or Wh/mi, which is the Tesla way). Can either use an OBD port reader to an app on your cellphone, or use the Lightning’s “Trip 1” screen and reset it frequently to see your present efficiency; you can then tweak your speed and/or climate controls to optimize your efficiency for the conditions, to make certain you have range-to-charger. No need to make the cabin uncomfortable, by assuming it’s climate control that’s using all the juice, when in reality it’s probably mostly other things. But your observation is correct, about acquiring new driving habits, in that it’s necessary to maintain an awareness of efficiency- kind of like traveling by small Cessna.

 

[TheBigBezo]

Agreed with the above, I've done several long trips this way as well. I typically use Android Auto and will ask Google what my miles to destination divided by battery % times 131kWh. Yes it's math but at least Google is doing it, that number it answers with is my minimum efficiency to continue, I then reset trip 1 and keep driving. If I'm under that number I stop early to charge, if not I continue. Typically, like many here, I charge to the minimum battery % to get to the next charger / destination with 10% leftover at 2.0 miles/kWh and it's never failed me. I usually do better than 2.0 and I can always double check my numbers while driving.

Considerably more work than driving a gas truck but I also do math like this for my day job so I found it very complementary.

 

[mr.Magoo]

On a side note, I'm traveling this weekend and have a Polestar 2 as a rental, and it has a toggle button so you can switch between GoM and realistic range.

Maybe that's an idea for Ford, keep the current mode default but add a switch to revert back to the way it was before GoM mode was introduced.

 

[1Jetpilot]

Tell your wife to figure out in advance the miles/kWh needed to make the trip. And accept that range drops dramatically at highway speed.

I recently planned a 260-mile foliage tour in northern Maine on a route with ZERO high-speed chargers; I knew I HAD to make it back to the CSP at our camp for a recharge. I calculated in advance that I needed to get at least 2.0 m/kWh (or shorten the trip.) When I make the frequent drive from Boston to our camp in Maine I get much less than 2.0 m/kWh because it’s mostly highway. But it’s not a problem because the trip is only 140 miles, and the CSP is waiting for me!

Well, the foliage tour was all on back roads, with an average speed of 45 MPH so I was hopefu I might get the 2.0 required. I charged to 100%, and set a start time of 8 AM. The truck turned on at 7:25 AM. I reset one of the trip meters, and then watched the miles/kWh carefully throughout the day. At the non-highway speeds, the miles/kWh stayed between 2.2 on the way up into the mountains, and increased to 2.4 by the end of the trip. I got back to the camp with 50 miles to spare.

It’s all about figuring out in advance the miles/kWh needed to make the trip.

Can you tell me the math behind figuring how many total miles (DTE) when you know your mi/kWh? For example, if you are burning 2.0 mi/kWh, what is your DTE?
Please explain the math behind that.

 

[RickLightning]

Can you tell me the math behind figuring how many total miles (DTE) when you know your mi/kWh? For example, if you are burning 2.0 mi/kWh, what is your DTE?
Please explain the math behind that.

2 x your battery size, which is either 98 or 131. If you're at 43% charge, multiply the answer x 0.43.

 

[1Jetpilot]

2 x your battery size, which is either 98 or 131. If you're at 43% charge, multiply the answer x 0.43.

So I have the ER Lariat, please show me because I get 320 according to Ford at 100%, so you are saying if I get 2.0 mi/kWh, that is the "2" that I multiply my battery size (131) then take 90% of that number? That gives me 235 DTE

 

[Maquis]

So I have the ER Lariat, please show me because I get 320 according to Ford at 100%, so you are saying if I get 2.0 mi/kWh, that is the "2" that I multiply my battery size (131) then take 90% of that number? That gives me 235 DTE

Yes. 2 X 131 X .9 = 236.

ETA…in cold weather, your battery capacity will be somewhat lower than 131. Plan conservatively.

 

[RickLightning]

So I have the ER Lariat, please show me because I get 320 according to Ford at 100%, so you are saying if I get 2.0 mi/kWh, that is the "2" that I multiply my battery size (131) then take 90% of that number?

No, you get 320 according to the EPA calculation.

2 x 131 = 262. That's your range at 100% charge, going to empty.

At 90%, your range would be 262 x 0.9 = 235.8.

But, you don't go to empty, you recharge at say 10%. So, it's 90 - 10 = 80%. 262 x 80% = 209.6 is your distance from 90% to 10%.

In reality, on the road, you charge from say 20 to 80%, then back down to 20%, then ... So...

0.6 x 262 = 157.2 miles between stops, after leaving your house with 100%, which if you went down to 20% gives you the 209.6 on the first leg.

 

[RickLightning]

To get 320, you'd need to achieve 320/131 = 2.44. Unless you do a mix of highway and city driving, and it's warm, and you don't drive fast, you won't ever get that.

 

[Maquis]

No, you get 320 according to the EPA calculation.

2 x 131 = 262. That's your range at 100% charge, going to empty.

At 90%, your range would be 262 x 0.9 = 235.8.

But, you don't go to empty, you recharge at say 10%. So, it's 90 - 10 = 80%. 262 x 80% = 209.6 is your distance from 90% to 10%.

In reality, on the road, you charge from say 20 to 80%, then back down to 20%, then ... So...

0.6 x 262 = 157.2 miles between stops, after leaving your house with 100%, which if you went down to 20% gives you the 209.6 on the first leg.

He was asking about calculating DTE, not how far he can go.

You told him what he needs to know, not what he asked!

 

[hturnerfamily]

the first time our LIGHTNING PRO's 'low on power' alert went off, my wife jumped three feet in the air, and almost lost her lunch.

now, though, after 40,000 miles and many of those while TOWING, and the lower range included, she just chalks up the 'alert' to the same as any other vehicle's 'dummy' light... like her old car when the 'engine' light would come on: it was only due to the gas cap not being 'clicked' three times from her last fill up, not that the engine is about to 'blow up'.... : )

PLAN, PLAN, PLAN...never leave your house without PLANNING. Sorry, but that's just the reality of EV driving. When we have DC Fast Chargers on EVERY corner of every TOWN, just like our current gas/diesel infrastructure, you'll THEN be able to 'relax', and not worry about range, miles, or charging.

 

[1Jetpilot]

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