Battery Preconditioning.

[Heliian]

If you have access to any 120volt outlet a L1 charger can supply the "<1kW" of temperature maintenance power - to hold the battery temperature, prior to a pre-sent charging schedule.

The truck does not precondition the battery on level 1, it only charges. You might see some residual heating but not the battery maintaining that it does on level 2.

The J1772 connection is rated for 80A.

It is, I was thinking the wall side of it. We just have to be careful with extensions as the connectors can be a weak point, not to mention the added length of the cable creates added losses.

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[NW Ontario Ford Lightning]

The truck does not precondition the battery on level 1, it only charges. You might see some residual heating but not the battery maintaining that it does on level 2.

If the battery is already warm from a trip, and you park and plug in a L1 cord, say while your at work for 8 hours, would it use the 1500-1800W available to maintain the battery temps to the 60F range until your next departure ?

 

[Heliian]

If the battery is already warm from a trip, and you park and plug in a L1 cord, say while your at work for 8 hours, would it use the 1500-1800W available to maintain the battery temps to the 60F range until your next departure ?

The lightning maxes out at 1200w on level 1, even if you have a 20a 110v evse. As far as keeping the battery warm I guess it would depend on the outside temp. I tried it the first winter I had the truck while parked at work and it didn't do much, more hassle plugging and unplugging if anything.

 

[NW Ontario Ford Lightning]

The lightning maxes out at 1200w on level 1, even if you have a 20a 110v evse

15A x 120 v = 1800W
1200 W is only 10Amp draw.
1000 W (ie 1kW) is 8.3 Amp x 120 v = 1,000W

In any case, the truck right now is drawing "less than 1kW" per FordPass - waiting for the schedule charging at 11:00PM. maintaining battery temp (minus 18C at the moment) with less than 1200W is clearly possible.
If I had a L1 charger I would plug it in to try it out. The comment earlier - guy charges at home, goes to work for 8hours - wondering about how to maintain battery temperature - not charging - while at work. Any 15A 120 plug would likely do what he is after. But without a L1 cord I can't confirm it.

Edit N. American standard since 1984 is 120V

 

[Altivec]

I know this sounds crazy and dumb but is it possible to charge the truck with a lvl 2 by plugging the other end into your 30amp propower in the back? Obviously you won't gain any charge and lose some due to the transfer losses but won't that allow for preconditioning to kick in. I would assume most of the energy used would go straight to the preconditioning. Just a thought for science, please go easy on me if its crazy.

 

[TMND]

I can confirm on the ford mobile connector plugged into 110 that ford pass app will show “preparing cabin and battery” at intervals, even if the charge has been stopped. How much warming it’s doing I can’t say cause the mobile connector doesn’t give you any data like that. When it’s in negatives, though it will keep you above the lower line for battery temp.

 

[NW Ontario Ford Lightning]

I can confirm on the ford mobile connector plugged into 110 that ford pass app will show “preparing cabin and battery” at intervals, even if the charge has been stopped. How much warming it’s doing I can’t say cause the mobile connector doesn’t give you any data like that. When it’s in negatives, though it will keep you above the lower line for battery temp.

Makes sense.
and as you say, if it is cycling on and off, it must be reaching it's desired set point.
For OP (@Iroc34a ) if you can find any 120-15A outlet at your work, you could maintain the battery temp with a L1 charger. In some places block heater plugs were common back in the day, but even an exterior convenience plug on a building wall would work to do what you need.

 

[NW Ontario Ford Lightning]

I know this sounds crazy and dumb but is it possible to charge the truck with a lvl 2 by plugging the other end into your 30amp propower in the back? Obviously you won't gain any charge and lose some due to the transfer losses but won't that allow for preconditioning to kick in. I would assume most of the energy used would go straight to the preconditioning. Just a thought for science, please go easy on me if its crazy.

it is only as crazy as expecting to lift yourself up by pulling on your own boot laces...but if you plug into Pro-Power on a Lightning parked beside yours... LOL

 

[Iroc34a]

Makes sense.
and as you say, if it is cycling on and off, it must be reaching it's desired set point.
For OP (@Iroc34a ) if you can find any 120-15A outlet at your work, you could maintain the battery temp with a L1 charger. In some places block heater plugs were common back in the day, but even an exterior convenience plug on a building wall would work to do what you need.

Yeah well, other Karen's crying they should get free gas if I get free electricity. I just might try the portable generator.

 

[luebri]

120v does provide a minor benefit from a heat standpoint via just charging or attempting a preconditioning schedule, but nowhere near the desired 60 Fahrenheit in frigid conditions. I have previously done tests showing this, and I also did just return from a six day vacation with the truck outside on 120 V at an airport lot In Milwaukee, which for much of that time was subzero and was low single digits during the day yesterday when I picked it up, I purposely adjusted my precondition time for when I would return back, so hopefully the battery was as warm as it could get it to. I was also hoping to time the bulk of my charging to be nonstop the last two days of my trip, but unfortunately, even without a schedule the truck would randomly start charging again and I would have to check on it via FordPass periodically to stop it so it got to too high of SOC so I was not able to charge the night before in which temps were well below zero. I did start charging in the morning and have preconditioning set up and truck did get to 17 Fahrenheit. My guess is if I would’ve been able to time it with 48 hours plus of nonstop charging the temp would’ve been a bit higher. Power gauge was at 90% so other than my driving efficiency being poor, 120 V juice did the job for an extended time and very frigid conditions to get charged up.

 

[RickLightning]

If the battery is already warm from a trip, and you park and plug in a L1 cord, say while your at work for 8 hours, would it use the 1500-1800W available to maintain the battery temps to the 60F range until your next departure ?

No. There is no "maintain the warm battery".

 

[Heliian]

"less than 1kW" per FordPass

FordPass isn't overly accurate on any of its reporting.

 

[Heliian]

much warming it’s doing I

Zero, it does zero warming.

 

[TMND]

Then explain to me why I can plug it in when it’s in the orange and -15 and after a few hours, it’s out of the orange. I know that’s from trickle charging, but that said trickle charging does warm it a little.

 

[Zprime29]

15A x 120 v = 1800W
1200 W is only 10Amp draw.
1000 W (ie 1kW) is 8.3 Amp x 120 v = 1,000W

The lightning will only draw at most 12A when on L1 charging, which is standard 80% for a 15A outlet. Thus, you will only get 120 * 12 = 1440w ( less when accounting for efficiency loss ). This is a big annoyance for many, but Ford has chosen this route to prevent less than smart people from over loading a circuit.

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