F150 Lightning Audio Builds (Anybody Done One?) Why Not?

[Greased Lightning]

Has anybody done a full audio replacement? I tried to search and the most I could find was people adding a subwoofer. I’m picking up my truck on Saturday and want to pull out the 8 speaker B&O system and replace with component 6x9s up front, 6.5” two ways in the rear and two shallow mount 12” woofers under the back seat. Going to run it all through a JL fix86 processor and a 5 channel amp. I have the processor, amp, and subs from my gladiator I just sold, just need to pickup the speakers. I read up a little on the 12v system and think it will be ok, but what do I know. The amp is 1000w rms total and 2000w peak. Would love to see some full build if anybody has done one. Also wouldn’t mind somebody telling me not to do it if they can give me a good reason of verifiable negative impact to the electrical system.

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[hturnerfamily]

while the 12v battery's ability to handle a high-amperage setup is in question, it's interesting that we now have a 120v 20amp outlet access in both the cab front and cab rear areas to tap into for almost 'unlimited' power, if you have any type of amp that could make use of that.
I have a underseat subwoofer that I tapped into the 12v rear outlet for power, using a plug-in 12v male adapter in the 12v outlet, but it would have been easier if the subwoofer had some type of 120v power option, though I can only imagine that there is little to nothing in the market for 120v power... at least yet. The other option might be some type of 120v to 12v 'brick', such as what we all use for our phone and laptop charging.
...or maybe even...

 

[Greased Lightning]

I’ve seen a handful of people suggest tapping into the 120v system and it seems like an unecossary complication. Also I believe the average draw of the amp would be around 26a and I’m sure those outlets are fused as 20a at best. Peak draw from the amp would be significantly higher. My only real hesitation comes from the literature I’ve read on how the 12v system charges from the high voltage system. It’s not a continuous charge like you get from an alternator in an ICE vehicle, but rather intermittent based off low voltage. It also seems to prefer to charge the 12v system when the vehicle is plugged in and only charges the 12v system in motion when it gets to an even lower voltage threshold. The below thread is where I first saw the information.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...–-w-12v-battery-power-and-ground-points.7461/

 

[GDN]

I've been researching since day 1. SGS - Sounds Good Stereo and MTI - Mobil Toys both deal with a ton of F150's.

I've got a price sheet for purchasing from MTI I just haven't pulled the trigger. I want it bad, but am slightly hesitant to put several thousand more into the truck.

I'm planning on Focal Flax Speakers - running all active from a JL Audio 6 channel VXi Amp with a JL Audio thin Woofer in a box with dedicated amp to go behind the seat. I don't want to interfere with the storage under the back seat.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I’ve seen a handful of people suggest tapping into the 120v system and it seems like an unecossary complication. Also I believe the average draw of the amp would be around 26a and I’m sure those outlets are fused as 20a at best. Peak draw from the amp would be significantly higher. My only real hesitation comes from the literature I’ve read on how the 12v system charges from the high voltage system. It’s not a continuous charge like you get from an alternator in an ICE vehicle, but rather intermittent based off low voltage. It also seems to prefer to charge the 12v system when the vehicle is plugged in and only charges the 12v system in motion when it gets to an even lower voltage threshold. The below thread is where I first saw the information.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/f-150-lightning-electrical-system-overview-–-w-12v-battery-power-and-ground-points.7461/

right, but don't confuse 120v 'amps' with 12v 'amps'... as most even any high-amperage home-based amp that plugs into a wall outlet doesn't come anywhere close to any 120v 20amp breaker's tripping point, or PA systems' amps. They plug into regular wall outlets.

 

[bmwhitetx]

Also I believe the average draw of the amp would be around 26a and I’m sure those outlets are fused as 20a at best.

As @hturnerfamily says you're confusing input and output current. The input current on the 120VAC side is much less that the output at 12 VDC. For example, this Meanwell 12VDC 29A power supply has input current of 6.8 amps AC. https://smile.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-350-12-Computer-Project/dp/B07VTLJS18

 

[Greased Lightning]

@hturnerfamily & @bmwhitetx, both valid points I overlooked. That does seem like a viable route, but I’d rather go with a traditional 12v install if possible. At this point I haven’t been able to find anything that specifically says the system cannot support it, so I’m thinking I give it a try and see what happens. Worse case scenario I kill a 12v battery and am stranded somewhere. It would be nice to have a baseline for life expectancy of the 12v battery. Everybody I know with teslas have had to replace and or jump the 12v batteries within the first 24 months of ownership.

 

[mr.Magoo]

P=U x I
W = V x A

Ohms law, Google it

1000W amp on a 12(14V) circuit = ~75A
1000W amp on a 120V circuit = ~8.5A

Before the fact checkers of the Internet joins, it's obviously not that simple, power factors, efficiency, heat loss, bla blah blah...
But, point is that, amps are not a constant between circuits with the same theoretical load and different voltage. the PUI formula will give you a ballpark estimate of what your current draw will be with a given power output and voltage.

 

[Greased Lightning]

I picked up the truck yesterday. I hoped that the stereo would be passable for some time but as suspected it’s not loud enough and there is next to zero bass. I had to fold down the back seat to make sure the woofer was even on. I’m going to see if my local stereo shop has any speakers I like before I order some on Monday. I will report back as the install progresses.

 

[ivan256]

I don't doubt that the stereo can be enormously improved with aftermarket components. However before giving up on the "B&O" system from the factory, try going into the audio settings and changing the sound mode to "Surround." In the default "stereo" setting it sounds like everything comes from one weak center channel. In "surround" mode, it's better enough that I don't feel like it's worth spending money to mess with it.

 

[Greased Lightning]

I went back and forth between stereo and surrounds several times. It’s not that. I could live with the sound stage in either setting. My issue is with the DSP. If we could control that it would be fine. There’s like a sweet spot in the volume where things sound decent (maybe 12 if I recall), but it’s not loud enough. When you crank it louder the dsp limits frequencies (all around) and the subwoofer all but cuts off. I see why a lot of people go with just adding an aftermarket sub, but I know that wouldn’t be enough for me. I normally do all my installs myself, but I paid a local shop yesterday to do it. I’m providing all the components and they’re doing the install with a custom amp rack. They explained the b&o amp(dsp) would have to stay, but the fix86 would be there to flatten and clean everything up. They have to order a harness and as soon as that comes in they’ll do the work. I’ll ask them to take pictures along the way. I imagine it will happen sometime next week.

 

[Pioneer74]

I don't doubt that the stereo can be enormously improved with aftermarket components. However before giving up on the "B&O" system from the factory, try going into the audio settings and changing the sound mode to "Surround." In the default "stereo" setting it sounds like everything comes from one weak center channel. In "surround" mode, it's better enough that I don't feel like it's worth spending money to mess with it.

Either mode has overpowering sound coming out of the center channel. Stereo isn't stereo and surround is anything but. I could get better quality sound with a Bluetooth speaker sitting on my dash, which ironically, is just about what it sounds like.

Whomever is in charge of designing and approving of these "premium" sound systems at Ford should be embarrassed. As should B&O for allowing Ford to attach their name to it.

 

[GDN]

I went back and forth between stereo and surrounds several times. It’s not that. I could live with the sound stage in either setting. My issue is with the DSP. If we could control that it would be fine. There’s like a sweet spot in the volume where things sound decent (maybe 12 if I recall), but it’s not loud enough. When you crank it louder the dsp limits frequencies (all around) and the subwoofer all but cuts off. I see why a lot of people go with just adding an aftermarket sub, but I know that wouldn’t be enough for me. I normally do all my installs myself, but I paid a local shop yesterday to do it. I’m providing all the components and they’re doing the install with a custom amp rack. They explained the b&o amp(dsp) would have to stay, but the fix86 would be there to flatten and clean everything up. They have to order a harness and as soon as that comes in they’ll do the work. I’ll ask them to take pictures along the way. I imagine it will happen sometime next week.

Do you have your own amps to add? If so then you need this - https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp6a-a2b.html

This pulls you a flat signal from the audio and retains the default truck sounds and bluetooth functionality through the speakers. Then you can add your own amps, speakers and subs.

 

[GDN]

Either mode has overpowering sound coming out of the center channel. Stereo isn't stereo and surround is anything but. I could get better quality sound with a Bluetooth speaker sitting on my dash, which ironically, is just about what it sounds like.

Whomever is in charge of designing and approving of these "premium" sound systems at Ford should be embarrassed. As should B&O for allowing Ford to attach their name to it.

You nailed it. I truly don't know how Ford and B&O are not fully embarrassed by this system in such an expensive truck, and B&O letting their name go on it. For likely little to no more money or maybe just even $500 more into components they could kick butt all day. It's almost like they must take money from aftermarket stereo companies just to put a system like this in.

 

[Greased Lightning]

@GDN im using the JL fix86. It does that and more. The computer interface with crossovers and 10 band EQ is really cool on the fix86. I’ve used it in passed installs with OEM integration and it works flawlessly.

https://www.jlaudio.com/products/fix-86-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98103

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