Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[Mike G]

Ooof I got to work and realized I left my Mongoose cable at home. It doesn’t seem like it’s willing to prepare an update drive without Mongoose right?

Nope. It needs to connect to the truck to generate the certificate before downloading the rest of the files.

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[Mike G]

I am weak. I'll admit it. I couldn't wait for the OTA.

Woke up this morning and checked FDRS to find that my Mach-E had the same new APIM update (6.2.0 for the car, but 6.3.0 for the truck) and after hitting the Check Updates button on the car's Sync screen I was immediately rewarded with "downloading 6.2.0"....



Why can't they do that with the truck?

So after that finished successfully I went over to the truck and stuck the USB drive in that I had created yesterday, and after what seemed like 20 minutes (6GB is a lot) it finally told me to turn off the truck and wait 10 mins with the door open. And then come back.

I did that and one of the things I noticed (really the only thing so far) is that instead of the bottom line of the "Sync About" screen saying something about Hands-free driving mode available through 12-12-2073 (or the end of time, whichever comes first), it now says "BlueCruise Map Version: MU5T-14H394-AAP". So that will be a new thing to keep track of as it changes over the months. I guess.

Other than that, the Sync version is now 980 as was reported for ICE trucks getting the same update. That's really all there is right now until they push out whatever is next (TCU?) in the pedestrian stroll towards the direction of BC 1.3. Next week another dribble maybe?

 

[chillaban]

I am weak. I'll admit it. I couldn't wait for the OTA.

Woke up this morning and checked FDRS to find that my Mach-E had the same new APIM update (6.2.0 for the car, but 6.3.0 for the truck) and after hitting the Check Updates button on the car's Sync screen I was immediately rewarded with "downloading 6.2.0"....



Why can't they do that with the truck?

So after that finished successfully I went over to the truck and stuck the USB drive in that I had created yesterday, and after what seemed like 20 minutes (6GB is a lot) it finally told me to turn off the truck and wait 10 mins with the door open. And then come back.

I did that and one of the things I noticed (really the only thing so far) is that instead of the bottom line of the "Sync About" screen saying something about Hands-free driving mode available through 12-12-2073 (or the end of time, whichever comes first), it now says "BlueCruise Map Version: MU5T-14H394-AAP". So that will be a new thing to keep track of as it changes over the months. I guess.

Other than that, the Sync version is now 980 as was reported for ICE trucks getting the same update. That's really all there is right now until they push out whatever is next (TCU?) in the pedestrian stroll towards the direction of BC 1.3. Next week another dribble maybe?

Can you test if CarPlay now shows EV route planning and range estimates? That was supposed to be OTA 6.3.0 according to documentation from months ago, it would line up with this APIM update.

 

[Mike G]

Can you test if CarPlay now shows EV route planning and range estimates? That was supposed to be OTA 6.3.0 according to documentation from months ago, it would line up with this APIM update.

I read that before but I'm not gonna lie I don't know what that means. Like using your phone to do route planning or something? I normally just use the truck's nav.

Tell me what to check and I'll go see what's what.

 

[chillaban]

I read that before but I'm not gonna lie I don't know what that means. Like using your phone to do route planning or something? I normally just use the truck's nav.

Tell me what to check and I'll go see what's what.

If you have an iPhone and connect it via CarPlay, then use Apple Maps to route somewhere.

if it’s a long distance it should now suggest charging stops. Even if it’s a short distance, one of the things it’ll show now is estimated battery percentage at time of arrival.

(This has been a Mach E feature for a long time, but the Lightning still doesn’t support it)

 

[Mike G]

If you have an iPhone and connect it via CarPlay, then use Apple Maps to route somewhere.

if it’s a long distance it should now suggest charging stops. Even if it’s a short distance, one of the things it’ll show now is estimated battery percentage at time of arrival.

(This has been a Mach E feature for a long time, but the Lightning still doesn’t support it)

Okay I'll give that a try. Haven't used Apple Maps for anything in a long time.

 

[chillaban]

Hey hey I see 6.3.0 downlowding. Big release notes, no EV routing mentioned….

 

[rugedraw]

You mind sharing your VIN so I can take a look at it? PM is fine if you prefer to keep it private.

 

[rugedraw]

VIN blocked out for your privacy. It's an APIM update. 3 files changed including the strategy.

 

[chillaban]

VIN blocked out for your privacy. It's an APIM update. 3 files changed including the strategy.

Thanks for looking this up! Makes sense that it's an APIM update given that it was the only pending update in FDRS. Neat to see all of this in PTS.

So I guess they totally do support "wifi required" just like Tesla, but anecdotally I was on wifi this entire time and the update only fetched over the TCU cellular connection, pulled less than 20MB total from wifi.

So at least for all the updates I know of to date, wifi has not been a factor -- you get them over cellular so finding a place with AT&T coverage is more important.

 

[Mike G]

 

[sstevetx]

I had a gateway module update and after that an APIM showed up which I did as well. It was about 6GB for on the USB, so it took a while. I'm not sure what it changed, but it did set my autofold mirror setting to off. I turned it back on and it works fine. It also reset my dashboard, but I just had to go into the dash settings and got it back to normal. All my other settings appear to have been retained.

I did run into an issue which is entirely my fault. A bluetooth OBD reader told me my SOC of my 12v was around 70% and I wanted to first try the OTA, so I decided to charge the 12v battery. I park outside and didn't want to leave my frunk open, so I charged directly to the battery terminals. and shut the frunk. After that, I noticed my LVB SOC was going down throughout the day. I thought it was a problem with the Car Scanner app at first. While running the updates it kept complaining about a low 12v battery and the level kept going down. I think it stopped halfway though the APIM because I had no message of it completing or running after a while. FDRS said I had 7% 12v battery left after that. I took the battery out and connected the charger to the battery. It showed 13v and est 100% charge. I realized it was that sensor on the negative terminal that was having issues. After leaving the battery out for 10 minutes and then re-installing, it read the correct voltage. Lesson learned...don't be an idiot and leave the battery terminals alone . Hopefully my mistake will help someone else.

 

[bmwhitetx]

You should be fine charging directly at the battery location. But make sure you connect the (-) clamp downstream of the BMS sensor (that black box on the terminal). Clamp to the point circled in blue (top side of sensor), not red (actual negative terminal):

By the way the studs on that sensor and the positive terminal are 6mm and long enough that if you get some 6mm nuts and something like this, you can wire in a harness that will always be available. No battery clamps needed. And you can install the harness without removing the terminals. Just be careful when touching the positive terminal that you aren't grounded!

[Pic from MAHauler's post]

 

[sstevetx]

Thank you, that is really good info. I actually have one of those harnesses from my old car and a trickle charger that fits that type of plug. I may just hook that up now.

 

[bmwhitetx]

Thank you, that is really good info. I actually have one of those harnesses from my old car and a trickle charger that fits that type of plug. I may just hook that up now.

I plan to do the same. Just remember the correct points. I shouldn’t have used red to highlight. EDIT (better pic): Use the points circled in blue. For positive you need to remove that red plastic cover and you’ll find a stud. Don’t use the ones that I marked with a red X.
Sorry if you already know this. Just want to make sure!

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