Ready For The Ford 80A Charge Station Pro

[TaxmanHog]

Quick question does anyone remember the charging cable length? Was it 25'? I need to maske sure I situate the station fight.

Yes, IIRC it is 25 feet

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[Yellow Buddy]

It must be hardwired to a dedicated 100A breaker, possibly with 3 wire (including neutral)

4 Wires. This will be 240V @ 80A (or 120V split phase 80A per leg for 160A @120V). To oversimplify L1-Red, L2-Black, N-White, G-Green.

#4 gauge copper or #2 gauge aluminum wiring (depending on distance and location). The neutral is required?

I typed a response but it might be easier to just link this to avoid debates:
https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

Make sure you follow NEC, that's what your inspector will care about. General wire gauging will give you rough ideas but your installation distance, method, etc. will change your requirements. The calculator will show that.

For wiring when in doubt I generally upsize the wire. The cost of labor to redo it is more expensive than the extra amount spent on copper or aluminum, especially if it's a short run.

 

[Sdctcher]

Yes, IIRC it is 25 feet

See Product Details:

 

[Tony Burgh]

I'll be sure to do that, our old sub-division had 10 duplex townhouses constructed in the past 4 years. It could be getting to the point where they need to reapportion the branch circuits with more cans on the poles!

I haven't seen any kind of upgrade to the distribution yet, but that will be coming in the near future, Mass is pushing gas utilities to phase out heating by 2050, they want all heat-pumps be they air or geothermal which depend on electricity.

4 Wires. This will be 240V @ 80A (or 120V split phase 80A per leg for 160A @120V). To oversimplify L1-Red, L2-Black, N-White, G-Green.



I typed a response but it might be easier to just link this to avoid debates:
https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

Make sure you follow NEC, that's what your inspector will care about. General wire gauging will give you rough ideas but your installation distance, method, etc. will change your requirements. The calculator will show that.

For wiring when in doubt I generally upsize the wire. The cost of labor to redo it is more expensive than the extra amount spent on copper or aluminum, especially if it's a short run.

I’m using 4awg for a 10 foot run on a 60 amp circuit. I used the calculator and it says not to use 4awg on 80 amp circuit even though dV is less than 3%.

 

[corradoborg]

my utility calls it a "load letter"

 

[Sdctcher]

I have been told to just charge my ER Battery with the Ford supplied 30A Mobile Power Cord or purchase a 40A-48A Charger ($300-$800).

If plugged into a 15A-20A (Check your Panel Breaker) 120V Outlet a 15% to Full Charge with the Mobile will take about 40 Hours (3kW/H-4kW/H).

If plugged into a 40A+ 240V (Check your Panel Breaker) NEMA 14-50 Outlet a 15% to Full Charge with the Mobile will take about 20 Hours (7.36kW/H).

Only a 40A+ Plug In Charger would fit my needs except in an emergency.

It would be ridiculous to use the Mobile on the road (even if I could find a place to plug in). Every hour charging would produce 1-2 miles of additional range (120v); or 3-4 miles (240v).

Ford is giving me the Pro Charger Free and I can install it cheaper than I would have to pay for a 40+ Charger (either from Ford or Aftermarket). And I have a ready-made place to install it.

In an interview the other day Ford's Darren Palmer stated that EV purchasers used to be a diehard bunch who researched to death and really knew the technology but many current buyers come without that deep knowledge.

With that in mind see the types of NEMA Outlets below:

 

[Yellow Buddy]

I’m using 4awg for a 10 foot run on a 60 amp circuit. I used the calculator and it says not to use 4awg on 80 amp circuit even though dV is less than 3%.

Correct, because voltage drop isn’t the concern there…

The calculator takes [some] codes into account and will limit you based on it. That’s why if you flip from say a conduit install compared to an overhead/open air install it will give you different gauges.

If you switch to the distance calculator and try to use 4 AWG for 80A it will actually say in the screen: “4 AWG copper may not carry 80.0 amps.”

 

[Yellow Buddy]

I have been told to just charge my ER Battery with the Ford supplied 30A Mobile Power Cord or purchase a 40A-48A Charger ($300-$800).

If plugged into a 15A-20A (Check your Panel Breaker) 120V Outlet a 15% to Full Charge with the Mobile will take about 40 Hours (3kW/H-4kW/H).

If plugged into a 40A+ 240V (Check your Panel Breaker) NEMA 14-50 Outlet a 15% to Full Charge with the Mobile will take about 20 Hours (7.36kW/H).

Only a 40A+ Plug In Charger would fit my needs except in an emergency.

It would be ridiculous to use the Mobile on the road (even if I could find a place to plug in). Every hour charging would produce 1-2 miles of additional range (120v); or 3-4 miles (240v).

Ford is giving me the Pro Charger Free and I can install it cheaper than I would have to pay for a 40+ Charger (either from Ford or Aftermarket). And I have a ready-made place to install it.

In an interview the other day Ford's Darren Palmer stated that EV purchasers used to be a diehard bunch who researched to death and really knew the technology but many current buyers come without that deep knowledge.

With that in mind see the types of NEMA Outlets below:

When I bought my first EV, I installed dedicated chargers. They cost about $300 plus installation at the time. A short while later I installed a NEMA 14-50 and it works just fine. Total cost of the 14-50 was about $50.

The only reason I’d want the pro charger is the bidirectional. If I didn’t need that, knowing what I do now, I’d just install a 14-50 and call it a day.

 

[jefro]

There is about a ZERO chance 97% of the US homes can install a new 100A circuit into their panel and meet code. I dare anyone to prove me wrong.

In Austin one might be able to get a huge discount on power if they install a new drop and meter for just the EVSE. The cost to put in a new 100A panel and get a permit on it may be $6000 currently.

Pretty easy to sneak in a 30A breaker even if you have to dead end some small less used circuit.

 

[EVBill]

There is about a ZERO chance 97% of the US homes can install a new 100A circuit into their panel and meet code. I dare anyone to prove me wrong.

For this reason, I am expecting a lot of Pro Chargers provided with the ER vehicles either will not get installed or will be set with lower output current than what would drive the 100A circuit requirement. Charging a vehicle with 80A continuous, running one to two AC compressors, drying laundry and cooking a pizza in the oven would have you very near the 200A input current limit of most residential services. Putting in a Pro Charger to work at its maximum output will most likely require an additional electrical service be run to a home that would be cost prohibitive.

I already have one 50A/240V outlet in my garage that I have an EVSE connected to for charging my Chevrolet Volt with that is seeing less than 20A pulled through that circuit. I am looking at just adding another 50A/240V outlet to utilize with an EVSE that pulls 40A maximum for charging the ER Lightning I have on order. This will not charge it at the fastest rate possible at home, but keeps it within a reasonable range with other loads on the 200A service panel.

 

[TaxmanHog]

There is about a ZERO chance 97% of the US homes can install a new 100A circuit into their panel and meet code. I dare anyone to prove me wrong.

That is why I am considering the 2nd service drop directly to the garage, I might be spending as much doing the houses service upgrade to 200 or 320 (400) with a branch conduit from house to garage.

My nephew is an electrician, so we will save a lot on labor, just equipment, permits and utility visits to make the tap & drop connections and install meter.

 

[Tony Burgh]

There is about a ZERO chance 97% of the US homes can install a new 100A circuit into their panel and meet code. I dare anyone to prove me wrong.

In Austin one might be able to get a huge discount on power if they install a new drop and meter for just the EVSE. The cost to put in a new 100A panel and get a permit on it may be $6000 currently.

Pretty easy to sneak in a 30A breaker even if you have to dead end some small less used circuit.

Your percentage number may be high but the concept is correct. Also, I don’t think many people will use the DC backfeed to power their homes because of cost to install.
Homes built in the 80’s and beyond probably have 200 amp service and if new higher efficiency HVAC systems have been installed, there may adequate power available to add 100 amp circuit drawing 80 amps.
Now I wonder if anyone will buy my Ford charger.

 

[Yellow Buddy]

Your percentage number may be high but the concept is correct. Also, I don’t think many people will use the DC backfeed to power their homes because of cost to install.
Homes built in the 80’s and beyond probably have 200 amp service and if new higher efficiency HVAC systems have been installed, there may adequate power available to add 100 amp circuit drawing 80 amps.
Now I wonder if anyone will buy my Ford charger.

There will be plenty of SR owners who would still be interested. I’m one if those and will be looking to buy one.

 

[Sdctcher]

For this reason, I am expecting a lot of Pro Chargers provided with the ER vehicles either will not get installed or will be set with lower output current than what would drive the 100A circuit requirement.

From the Ford Charge Station Pro Specs:

"Adjustable power levels to accommodate a range of circuit breakers (20-100 Amps) in situations where power may be limited, to enable compatibility with almost any home electrical system"

"Usable amperage is 80% of home breaker amperage"

Unknown whether the adjustment is automatic or manual.

 

[SteffanG]

4 Wires. This will be 240V @ 80A (or 120V split phase 80A per leg for 160A @120V). To oversimplify L1-Red, L2-Black, N-White, G-Green.

Unless you are using SOOW (which is for temporary/portable installations only) the ground is not counted. And no it doesn't work like that. If you have 3 wires you would never get 80A per leg @ 120V. If it worked like that you would be putting 160A back into the neutral which would severely overload it and probably catch on fire.
You either draw 80A @ 120V or 80A @ 240V (or 80A @ 208V if it is a 3-phase service). It never draws individually 80A. Even in your house where you have a 3-wire feeding 2 separate circuits of plugs, the neutral only takes the un-balanced load between the 2 circuits.

From the Ford Charge Station Pro Specs:

"Adjustable power levels to accommodate a range of circuit breakers (20-100 Amps) in situations where power may be limited, to enable compatibility with almost any home electrical system"

"Usable amperage is 80% of home breaker amperage"

Unknown whether the adjustment is automatic or manual.

It is 100% guaranteed to be manual adjustment. There is no way that the charger can know what the breaker is set to.

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