Generac 6852 Transfer Switch installed (to power my house from the Pro Power 240V plug)

[Henry Ford]

Also there is a setting on the truck to disable the shutdown timer

Ha ha...I just figured this out as well. Maybe the fob doesn't have to be in the truck?

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[carys98]

The thunderstorms that moved through the east coast this evening knocked out our power about 7:30. This is the first long outage I’ve had since installing the switch and it is working great three hours in. I forgot to turn off the auto shutdown timer and it is still on. Did one of the recent SW updates remove the shutdown timer when ProPower is active?

 

[carys98]

The thunderstorms that moved through the east coast this evening knocked out our power about 7:30. This is the first long outage I’ve had since installing the switch and it is working great three hours in. I forgot to turn off the auto shutdown timer and it is still on. Did one of the recent SW updates remove the shutdown timer when ProPower is active?

Our power came back at 4:43 am and I got up and switched back to the grid at 5:24. Wound up using just under 12 kWh for the approximately 10 hour outage. I did forget to turn off the auto headlights so some of the energy was wasted lighting up the garage. Plus my wife got a good laugh when she checked the security camera video of me wandering around the garage in my underwear this morning.

One other observation. The ground fault detection on this truck is super sensitive. The Generac uses a solenoid to throw the switch and it creates a fault almost every time that trips the breaker in the truck. I have to connect the cable, turn on the ProPower, switch the transfer switch, and then reset the breaker in the truck. It even trips it when I switch back to grid power.

 

[PV2EV]

One note on the 30A Generac MTS is that the max amperage for the bus is 50A, which limits what you can power from the grid (what circuits you can put in the panel). For me that meant I could not have either my water heater or stove top in the MTS, even though I could manually manage the load while running off ProPower. I should have opted for their 50A MTS...

 

[solarity]

One note on the 30A Generac MTS is that the max amperage for the bus is 50A, which limits what you can power from the grid (what circuits you can put in the panel). For me that meant I could not have either my water heater or stove top in the MTS, even though I could manually manage the load while running off ProPower. I should have opted for their 50A MTS...

Aren't both the Generac 30A & 50A MTS both limited to 50A on the utility side according to the specs: https://www.generac.com/generaccorp...wer/homelink/homelink-spec-sheet_0l1648_1.pdf

From what I can see it looks like the following difference:
-$200+
-50A vs 30A inlet
-Conduit size
-Different bus bar to allow for more tandems? i.e. 10 circuits vs 16 circuits on 50A.
-Additional breakers via tandems
-Wiring sized for specific breakers?

The automatic transfer switch PN is the same for both units and they share the same manuals. Is there something missing or am I correct that the 50A version wouldn't have helped as it is still to limited for you on the utility side?

 

[Maquis]

Aren't both the Generac 30A & 50A MTS both limited to 50A on the utility side according to the specs: https://www.generac.com/generaccorp...wer/homelink/homelink-spec-sheet_0l1648_1.pdf

From what I can see it looks like the following difference:
-$200+
-50A vs 30A inlet
-Conduit size
-Different bus bar to allow for more tandems? i.e. 10 circuits vs 16 circuits on 50A.
-Additional breakers via tandems
-Wiring sized for specific breakers?

The automatic transfer switch PN is the same for both units and they share the same manuals. Is there something missing or am I correct that the 50A version wouldn't have helped as it is still to limited for you on the utility side?

It’s useful if you have more than 30A worth of loads that you can manually shed or alternate between when running on the truck.

Maybe you have 3 window ACs and would only be able to run 2 at a time on truck power, for example.

 

[solarity]

On so you wish you had more options/circuits to control what to shed? My goal is only fridge and deep freezer and some plugs. My panel is full as it is, so I am using this as a pricey sub panel that allows for a generator. I need 4 slots free 2x EVSE and 2x for sub panel.

 

[Maquis]

On so you wish you had more options/circuits to control what to shed? My goal is only fridge and deep freezer and some plugs. My panel is full as it is, so I am using this as a pricey sub panel that allows for a generator. I need 4 slots free 2x EVSE and 2x for sub panel.

I’m putting in a standalone transfer switch and separate subpanel. Everything is rated 100A and the subpanel has 20 spaces. I’ll have 2 fridges, freezer, gas furnace, gas range, microwave, some kitchen receptacles, fiber modem, dishwasher, and some lights. I’ll post a write up when I get it done. Everything is done except pulling the wire to the garage.

 

[PV2EV]

Aren't both the Generac 30A & 50A MTS both limited to 50A on the utility side according to the specs: https://www.generac.com/generaccorp...wer/homelink/homelink-spec-sheet_0l1648_1.pdf

From what I can see it looks like the following difference:
-$200+
-50A vs 30A inlet
-Conduit size
-Different bus bar to allow for more tandems? i.e. 10 circuits vs 16 circuits on 50A.
-Additional breakers via tandems
-Wiring sized for specific breakers?

The automatic transfer switch PN is the same for both units and they share the same manuals. Is there something missing or am I correct that the 50A version wouldn't have helped as it is still to limited for you on the utility side?

I was told (or assumed?) the 50A unit had a bigger bus bar an larger mains wiring. I thought the system used a 70A breaker?

 

[solarity]

I was told (or assumed?) the 50A unit had a bigger bus bar an larger mains wiring. I thought the system used a 70A breaker?

I will be the first to admit I misread or misunderstand somethings. I was curious about the larger breaker as well, though every thing I have read seems to indicate the 30a and 50a are the limitations on the generator and both are limited to 50A on the utility supply. I would love for you to prove me wrong.

I think the big difference in the bus bar is the allowance for more tandems in the 50A version. The automatic switch PN is the same and my assumption is the manual switch may be where it is limited?

 

[PV2EV]

I will be the first to admit I misread or misunderstand somethings. I was curious about the larger breaker as well, though every thing I have read seems to indicate the 30a and 50a are the limitations on the generator and both are limited to 50A on the utility supply. I would love for you to prove me wrong.

I think the big difference in the bus bar is the allowance for more tandems in the 50A version. The automatic switch PN is the same and my assumption is the manual switch may be where it is limited?

You appear to be correct. All five models require a 50A main breaker; https://www.generac.com/generaccorporate/media/library/content/all-products/portable-recreational-power/homelink/homelink-spec-sheet_0l1648_1.pdf

 

[Firestop]

I’m putting in a standalone transfer switch and separate subpanel. Everything is rated 100A and the subpanel has 20 spaces. I’ll have 2 fridges, freezer, gas furnace, gas range, microwave, some kitchen receptacles, fiber modem, dishwasher, and some lights. I’ll post a write up when I get it done. Everything is done except pulling the wire to the garage.

Do you mind sharing the details of your configuration? I’ve been in a protracted discussion with my electrician over installation options as you briefly described. Thanks in advance!

 

[Maquis]

Do you mind sharing the details of your configuration? I’ve been in a protracted discussion with my electrician over installation options as you briefly described. Thanks in advance!

You must have missed it!

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...p-power-installation.16542/page-2#post-333649

 

[Firestop]

You must have missed it!

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...p-power-installation.16542/page-2#post-333649

Yep…I’ve been off the forum all summer. Thnx for the link!

 

[Hammick]

Has anyone with gas heat, water and stoves just used an interlock kit on the main panel breaker with a 30a breaker for the PIB?

Our electrical service is 200 amps. In addition to emergency power I want to use the truck to power our home during the 4:00 - 8:00 pm peak time when our electric rates go to .36kwh during the summer. .26kwh in the winter. Rate from Midnight to 6:00 am is .03kwh in summer and .02kwh in winter. So charging our lightning and Ioniq 5 after midnight is almost free. All other times are .09kwh. We are forced to choose a plan by October 1st. The plan I described is for EV owners.

I am retired so I'm mostly home during this time when it's excessively hot here in Kansas City (which seems like most of the time lately). I like to stay busy so setting this up daily isn't a concern for me).

I know I will have to leave the ground disconnected at the PIB to make this work and I could trip the Lightnings 30 amp breaker if we draw over 30 amps. Only thing I haven't thought through is if a 200 main breaker is designed to be turned off repeatedly.

Our main loads from 4:00 - 8:00 pm are:

- main floor AC (Lennox Signature inverter driven true variable)
- main floor gas furnace (Lennox Signature true variable)
- kitchen fridge (Samsung inverter)
- basement fridge (normal compressor but not opened very often)
-freezer (normal compressor but not opened very often)
- Anova precision oven (15 amp)
- Treadmill (15 amp)

Main oven and burners are gas. Hot water heaters are gas. Upstairs two stage AC can be programmed not to run between 4:00 - 8:00 (nobody is up there during that time)

I plan to test this out before I determine if I want the hassle and expense of a transfer switch. Anything I've neglected to consider?

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