My truck came like that. There's apparently a process to align it, but you have to have FDRS or Forscan or something to DIY. Need to take it in and have a tech align your cameras. I need to do the same but good luck finding a service department that doesn't want to just hold your truck on their lot for a week before they'll even look at it.
Update on the update. After watching the lights dance for over 5 hours, and the LVB bouncing from 5V-8V, I pulled the positive cable and let the LVB charge overnight. Came back the next morning and did another install of the IPMA. This went through without the light show.
5V !!!??? Holy cow ! And here I thought mine was bad at 9V
My charger is a 120V plugin that was delivering 20-25 A throughout the process.5V !!!??? Holy cow ! And here I thought mine was bad at 9V
I just did the drivers camera module and the strange thing is that the download (from the internet) took 2 seconds or so, but the update took roughly an hour and 15min during which my battery reached 9V and at that point I was very concerned that I might brick the truck. Needless to say, I'm shopping for a 100A power-supply right now, that was way too close for comfort.
Plus I think my LVB is toast, it's been showing some weird behavior the past couple of days.
I've done two full upgrade sessions with a Clore 20A earlier and that was fine although it went down to about 11.2-11.3, so I figured if I get a 25A instead I should be good. That worked beautifully (11.8-12V) earlier this year but I suppose the combination of a tired LVB and 30F degree weather is pushing it's limits.
Based on the DTC's you truck just recorded, your findings are well justified. I see you tried to update the IPMA again a second time. I don't have access to FDRS now, but I am assuming the IPMA update is still available for you in FDRS? Vehicle history shows the second IPMA update did not go through due to a unknown battery check error.
IPMA no longer available under software updates. And please educate me on PMI.
In the toolbox tab, click the IPMA module on the left and this menu showing everything that can be done to that module as far as FDRS procedures will populate on the right. Download and run the PMI. It will ask you if the original module is installed, and you select "no" in this case. If you select yes, it will load the original as-built data and that you do not want. If you select no, it will look for the correct files needed to properly config the IPMA based on the current software state of your truck.
Thank you much! It will be a couple of weeks before I have the time to do this on a weekend, but will let you know.In the toolbox tab, click the IPMA module on the left and this menu showing everything that can be done to that module as far as FDRS procedures will populate on the right. Download and run the PMI. It will ask you if the original module is installed, and you select "no" in this case. If you select yes, it will load the original as-built data and that you do not want. If you select no, it will look for the correct files needed to properly config the IPMA based on the current software state of your truck.
The PMI will take just as long as the updating the module, so three hours in this case. Do it when you have time to do it, and this will fix the issue.
What are you using here (link if possible) and how easy is it to figure out to put it in the proper mode? I know cells and batteries, but I'm pretty useless when it comes to automotive work.
I don't know if anyone has posted this before, but I wish I had known how much current is actually used during an update, because, had I known I probably would not have tried to take some shortcuts / skimp on the power supply.
Granted, 64A is on the high side, it hovers around 50A quite a bit, never above 70A that I saw and never below 40A. But lets say the average is 50A, that means that anything less than a 50A power supply and you're eating away at the 12V LVB Battery which is only 35Ah.
For example, if you do two Clore 20A in parallel (for 40A total), you're now using up 10A over what they can supply, so your 12V battery will (in theory) last about 3 hours (IF, big IF, it's in tip top shape and fully charged when you begin) before things start getting really sketchy.
The update I'm doing right now (IPMA module) have been running 1.5 hours with another 30min (or so to go) and supposedly there are others that take even longer.
So yeah, having seen this I probably wouldn't recommend anyone using anything smaller than 65-75A
It's a Schumacher INC 100
Definitely not cheap, but after what I went through with the last update, well worth it! And since I know I have to go through another 3 hour update as suggested by @rugedraw, I have it on order.
