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Plug Will NOT Disengage From FCSP FIXED POST 87

marc_hanna

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I tried to see how this would happen on my unit and I think it’s a little easier than you think. If I were in a hurry and I stuck it in there at the wrong angle and too quickly, I think the additional resistance to make it get stuck like that would hardly be noticeable. In my little test, I realized I was dangerously close to recreating the situation, so I stopped. I think it is an honest mistake and a borderline design flaw.
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rdr854

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I tried to see how this would happen on my unit and I think it’s a little easier than you think. If I were in a hurry and I stuck it in there at the wrong angle and too quickly, I think the additional resistance to make it get stuck like that would hardly be noticeable. In my little test, I realized I was dangerously close to recreating the situation, so I stopped. I think it is an honest mistake and a borderline design flaw.
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rdr854

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Henry Ford

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You're going to need a tamper resistant 5 point torx bit in the range of t10- t15 that has a long reach, conventional bits mount on a 1/4 driver might not reach, you would need a screw driver length version to reach in to the depth these fasteners are seated.

1720371225215-3m.png


1720371350491-5g.png
In addition, the screws closest to the charger will be really difficult to access with a bit. Maybe with an Allen style L-wrench but that is one very specific tool. I'm saying the great Harbor Freight doesn't even have that. 😆
 

TaxmanHog

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JRT

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I tried playing around with mine this morning, I'd have to use some brut force to make it jam like this. I installed mine so it is pretty simple to pull the cover, also the latch on the cover has a clear open in the bottom, so maybe even able to twist the removed cover and use a thin long screw driver to push to up the latchat the same time.

I hope they help you out but this is for sure some user error, which happens.
 

TaxmanHog

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There's no space to use a bit on the screws nearest to the charger. Maybe you could use a wrench with one.🤷
1/4" ratchet wrench at the hex end of the torx driver?

Removing 5 of the 6 might be just enough to get the locking lever out of position.
 

Sneakypetie78

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The more I learn about the ford charge station pro, the happier I am that it's still sealed in the original shipping box and not in use on my wall. It seems that the ONLY situation where it makes sense to use it is if you paid the extra $10k+ to also do the full home backup. Otherwise almost any other L2 charger on the market seems like a better idea.
Except good luck finding another charger that'll pump out 80A. That's how this is unique, and comes (came) free with ER batteries. This is a clear case of bad user error, and not common.
 

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Green1

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Except good luck finding another charger that'll pump out 80A. That's how this is unique, and comes (came) free with ER batteries. This is a clear case of bad user error, and not common.
This is only one of a myriad of problems with it. Not at all an isolated incident. As for good luck finding a charger that'll pump out 80 amps. Many level 2 chargers can do 80 amps. And almost nobody actually needs 80 amps. Very few people arrive home with a completely dead battery, and need to leave with a completely full one less than 7 hours later.

For the vast majority of people any of a dozen 40 amp chargers will be significantly cheaper to buy and install than the 80 amp one is for installation alone, will be way more reliable than this thing, Will be more than enough for their daily charging, and many of them have all sorts of functionality that is completely missing in the ford product.

There really are only two use cases for this product:
1) You're going to spend the extra $10,000 or more to do the whole home backup thing.
2) you can't afford a better 80 amp charger, AND need to be able to go from empty to full in under 7 hours.

I would say neither of those situations are exactly common use cases.
 

chl

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1/4" ratchet wrench at the hex end of the torx driver?

Removing 5 of the 6 might be just enough to get the locking lever out of position.
That is what I used - my hex wrench set came with an extension, it was even magnetic which was nice to hold the Torx screws as I pulled them out of the cavites (only a couple need the extension). I already had a Torx set when I had to screw around with some other things.

It is a T20 Torx head you need for the FCSP cover.

EDIT: seems to be smaller than a T5 for the handle - my set only goes to T5 and it is too big...it is so small I can't really even tell if it is a Torx or a star or what.
 
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chl

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This is only one of a myriad of problems with it. Not at all an isolated incident. As for good luck finding a charger that'll pump out 80 amps. Many level 2 chargers can do 80 amps. And almost nobody actually needs 80 amps. Very few people arrive home with a completely dead battery, and need to leave with a completely full one less than 7 hours later.

For the vast majority of people any of a dozen 40 amp chargers will be significantly cheaper to buy and install than the 80 amp one is for installation alone, will be way more reliable than this thing, Will be more than enough for their daily charging, and many of them have all sorts of functionality that is completely missing in the ford product.

There really are only two use cases for this product:
1) You're going to spend the extra $10,000 or more to do the whole home backup thing.
2) you can't afford a better 80 amp charger, AND need to be able to go from empty to full in under 7 hours.

I would say neither of those situations are exactly common use cases.
Good points...

But....

I got my FCSP new in the box from someone selling it on eBay for $600 with tax so about 1/2 the list price.

I will not be charging at 80A, I can't right now because I currently have an SR battery limited to 40-something or other amps, but I wanted the FCSP for the home integration, when the price is right.

The current $10k or so price is not worth it right now, I think the price will come down.
Before anyone flames me for that prediction, I also predicted the Lightning price would come down.

EV battery prices are also coming down as the supply chain readjusts after the COVID reopening,

https://cleantechnica.com/2024/03/18/ev-battery-prices-dropping-a-lot-this-year-next/

My long range plan is home integration with solar (PV).

Functionally, the circuitry is basically a control module, an inverter and a transfer switch.

This is a diagram of the SunRun version without the photovoltaic circuits (solar) (or other battery storage - except a dark start 12v battery) connected.

Ford F-150 Lightning Plug Will NOT Disengage From FCSP FIXED POST 87 Integration System CSP-SunRun wirin


So far I haven't seen any other EVSE's that doubles as a home integration battery backup interface.

In the mean time (before I jump on a home integration system) I will use the 240V 30A out from the Lightning bed via a Generac neutral switching transfer switch in case of an outage with just the basic house circuits connected (as I did with my gasoline generator and my old transfer switch).

If a better EVSE with home integration comes along, that can work with the Lightning, I hope news of it shows up on this forum!
 
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Green1

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Good points...

But....

I got my FCSP new in the box from someone selling it on eBay for $600 with tax so about 1/2 the list price.

I will not be charging at 80A, I can't right now because I currently have an SR battery limited to 40-something or other amps, but I wanted the FCSP for the home integration, when the price is right.

The current $10k or so price is not worth it right now, I think the price will come down.
Before anyone flames me for that prediction, I also predicted the Lightning price would come down.

EV battery prices are also coming down as the supply chain readjusts after the COVID reopening,

https://cleantechnica.com/2024/03/18/ev-battery-prices-dropping-a-lot-this-year-next/

My long range plan is home integration with solar (PV).

Functionally, the circuitry is basically a control module, an inverter and a transfer switch.

This is a diagram of the SunRun version without the photovoltaic circuits (solar) (or other battery storage connected).

Integration System CSP-SunRun wiring.jpg


So far I haven't seen any other EVSE's that double as a home integration battery backup interface.

In the mean time (before I jump on a home integration system) I will use the 240V 30A out from the Lightning bed via a Generac neutral switching transfer switch in case of an outage with just the basic house circuits connected (as I did with my gasoline generator and my old transfer switch).

If a better EVSE with home integration comes along, that can work with the Lightning, I hope news of it shows up on this forum!
So basically you are saying that you fit into the one use case that I said counted, that you plan to spend money on bidirectional charging.
If that is the case, this is the only charger you can use. Doesn't matter if it's any good, it's the only one out there.
And if you look at my posts I did consistently say that if you were planning on doing the bidirectional charging, this charger does make sense for you. I just believe that there is no other use case where it does.
 
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TaxmanHog

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That is what I used - my hex wrench set came with an extension, it was even magnetic which was nice to hold the Torx screws as I pulled them out of the cavites (only a couple need the extension). I already had a Torx set when I had to screw around with some other things.

It is a T20 Torx head you need for the FCSP cover.
You disassembled the cable head???

Ford F-150 Lightning Plug Will NOT Disengage From FCSP FIXED POST 87 1720462631200-97
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