Question for 240V Portable Charger Users

[MM in SouthTX]

I have, though, seen this 'yellow' color highlighted one time, and I simply unplugged the unit from the outlet, reset the 'collar' of the 240v adapter into the base of the unit, replugged, and have had no issues since.

This seems to have worked. I had tried unplugging from the 240 receptacle (rebooting) a couple of times without success. Perhaps a weak connection with the 240V collar. Thanks!

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[Pioneer74]

I'm not trying to draw 48a. Only thing I plug in there is the 32a charger. Not sure I get the issue with the code. Is it that the breaker should not be higher amp than the receptacle, so that it trips if overloaded?

Yes. By code you have to have the NEMA 14-50 receptacle on its own branch circuit, and the protection rating cannot exceed the rating of the receptacle.

The 80% is for the continuous load calculation. You have a 50 amp branch circuit. The continuous load rating would be 40 amps. (50A x 80% = 40A)

 

[Pioneer74]

This seems to have worked. I had tried unplugging from the 240 receptacle (rebooting) a couple of times without success. Perhaps a weak connection with the 240V collar. Thanks!

I would also check the tightness of the connections on the receptacle. Also look for signs of overheating and arcing, especially if an industrial rated receptacle wasn't used.

 

[MM in SouthTX]

I would also check the tightness of the connections on the receptacle. Also look for signs of overheating and arcing, especially if an industrial rated receptacle wasn't used.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Pioneer74]

Thanks for your help.

You're welcome.

 

[Maquis]

While we’re on the topic of electrical safety, here are a couple pictures showing the difference between a true industrial 14-50 receptacle and those sold in the big box stores. Notice the full contact area for the blades vs partial, and the saddle clamps for wire terminals vs simple set screws.

 

[hturnerfamily]

Many, many Mach-E owners, with another year of usage, have had failed chargers.

Hardwired over plug wins in safety any day. And is faster.

As to your 3 cheap vs 1 expensive, I have shown the math before:

$399 cheap unit vs

$600 expensive unit, less $500 rebate from utility, less 30% tax credit...

I have no idea where you would get $399 from, as there are MANY MANY EVSE units available in MANY locations from MANY manufacturers for $150-$175...
I have no idea where you would get ANY data that 'proves' that just because an EVSE is 'hard wired' that it is somehow 'safer' than one that you plug in, or that STAYS plugged in. An electrical connection is an electrical connection, all things otherwise equal.
I have no idea where you would get the idea that somehow a hard-wired EVSE is 'faster' than any other method - the EVSE is designed for it's rated 'speed', or amperage, regardless... being a 'mobile' unit or a 'hard wired' units makes no difference.
I have no idea where you would 'assume' that just because 'some' owners may report, or assume themselves, that their Ford EVSE has 'failed', when it could be other factors. The VAST Majority of owners enjoy using their's every day.
You have drank the 'kool aid'.... Jim Jones would be proud.

 

[RickLightning]

A plugged in charger can be a max of 40amps. Going above 40amps requires hardwiring. Going above 40amps, by definition, is faster than 40amps...

Yes, if using the proper industrial outlet, with the Ford Mobile Charger MOUNTED on the wall so it doesn't pull on the plug, and the plug firmly seated, it may last just like a hardwired connection. Many unplug them frequently and therefore they won't last as long.

Most won't buy a cheap charger from AXPoof, with no certifications or ratings, made in China, but suit yourself.

Don't know how you have inside information that the VAST majority of owners charge, at 240v, with their Ford Mobile Chargers, but there are posts on forums and Facebook of many owners finding the units failed, and the dealers replace them under warranty.

 

[RickLightning]

I thought 80% of the draw was the rule. 60 x .8 is 48. So, off by two? I haven't read the rules myself...but since the draw is only 32a, you are correct. That is not the issue.

80% ==> 50 x 80% = 40 Must be 80% of draw.
125% ==> 40 x 125% = 50 Circuit needs to be 125% bigger

Depends which way you look at it.

 

[Dan's Lightning]

I've never used the Ford Mobile charger cause I bought the Tesla mobile charger and an adapter! The Tesla mobile charger is a bit more powerful couple more amps and every bit helps when using a mobile charger. Also the Tesla mobile charger I bought the adapters kit that has ever imaginable connection type, way better than Fords. There was a thread about this with links to buy it all, which I did. If I can find it I will post it here..

 

[djwildstar]

My portable charger stays plugged in to a 240V outlet on a 60a dedicated circuit. It is my only home charging device for the past year. Lately, more and more, I am noticing that I don't consistently get the 6 kW charge speed that I should get. Instead I get 3 kW. The display shows part orange instead of the solid blue light. It will sometimes flip back and forth between 6 and 3 kW.

It looks like the charger is overheating, and either shutting down or limiting power to keep itself within its temperature limits. Double-check (unplug and re-plugh) that the charger plug is seated in the outlet, and the plug adapter is fully seated into the charger body. Failing that, see if you can get it replaced under warranty.

The charger is a Webasto Go unit with Ford branding on it, and perhaps some Ford-specific tweaks to the firmware. GM uses the same unit for some of its EVs. There are fairly consistent reports of exactly these symptoms, so it seems like it is a fairly common failure mode.

Since you already have a 60A circuit for EV charging, you should definitely consider getting a hardwired charger for use on a daily basis, and keep the Ford mobile charger for use on the road if and when you need it. A reputable charger and professional installation should run less than $1000, and you should be able to get discounts or tax breaks to offset some or all of the cost. On a 60A circuit, you can safely charge at up to 11.5kW (48A), which is noticeably faster than the Ford mobile charger, too.

 

[queuewho]

I've never used the Ford Mobile charger cause I bought the Tesla mobile charger and an adapter! The Tesla mobile charger is a bit more powerful couple more amps and every bit helps when using a mobile charger. Also the Tesla mobile charger I bought the adapters kit that has ever imaginable connection type, way better than Fords. There was a thread about this with links to buy it all, which I did. If I can find it I will post it here..

This is actually a great investment... EVs are here to stay and so is NACS. Also, all those plug types are standards that won't be going away either. You're covered for every eventuality with that kit.

 

[Pioneer74]

I

Crocs and socks.

Seriously tho, I'd love to have that setup with all the adaptors.

 

[jdmackes]

I ended up getting the J+ booster 2 mobile charger for my lightning. I had looked at the tesla one, but I think after getting the adapters and everything it cost more, or roughly the same as the J+. the J+ is nice because you can lower the power draw if you want, and the unit is super sturdy. It also offers adapters for what I needed (nema 6-20 shop plug that I had in my garage already). Granted, I don't use it on a daily basis, I have a hard wired unit that I got from my power company for that, but it has been solid when I've needed to use it.

 

[Heliian]

many Mach-E owners, with another year of usage, have had failed chargers.

They had problems on the initial batch, they have made several improvements over the years, there are multiple part numbers now. I have a newer unit and it works flawlessly, like most other newer users.

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