mr.Magoo
Well-known member
It's 4, bit overkill since it'll never see 90-100A but it's what came on/with the connector / plug.Is that an 8ga connector set? Or is it 6ga?
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It's 4, bit overkill since it'll never see 90-100A but it's what came on/with the connector / plug.Is that an 8ga connector set? Or is it 6ga?
Perfect, thanks!It's 4, bit overkill since it'll never see 90-100A but it's what came on/with the connector / plug.
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Better overkill than too thin a gauge and a fire hazardIt's 4, bit overkill since it'll never see 90-100A but it's what came on/with the connector / plug.
Spartan Power 4 AWG 8 Foot Battery Cable
https://a.co/d/8rlyPeD
Are you using the DLS90 on a 15A circuit or 20A? I see in the specs that the max AC current is 21.8A which would exceed both circuits.I haven't had a chance to test mine due to the "hold" on powertrain updates, but supposedly the IOTA have a very clean output and at $198 (current price) it's a great deal compared to Schumacher and Clore (not as versatile, but also a 3rd of the price).
I paid $265 for my DLS a few months back as a reference.
The IOTA is kind of "dumb" so it relies on an phone jack plug in "configurator" (I think they call it an IQ module) if you want to use it as a "smart" charger.
IOTA recommended using the little jumper plug that came with the power supply, this will bring the voltage to 14.2V and effectively charge your battery.
I personally feel this is a bit sketchy considering the small size of our battery and I'd be concerned about overcharging it.
So I plan on leaving the jumper out / unplugged, which should leave the unit in power supply mode (what we want) and 13.6V (going by memory, might have been 13.2).
I'm not telling anyone what to do, you do your own research, just a heads up in case you end up getting one.
Also note that while you can get away with using the smaller DLS75, I think it comes with a 20A plug, vs. a 15A on the DLS-90 (kinda a-- backwards, but that's what their specs says anyway and mine (DLS90) have a 15A plug.)
15AAre you using the DLS90 on a 15A circuit or 20A? I see in the specs that the max AC current is 21.8A which would exceed both circuits.
Any more updates on this? I still see this message for the BCM update.I have been doing a number of updates using FDRS over the last few days. I started to do the BCM and got this message. Why can't I update the Body Control Module?
Has anyone else seen this message? I could have sworn I updated BCM when I first started using FDRS.
It has not been fixed yet as far as I know.Any more updates on this? I still see this message for the BCM update.
Hi I was just wondering because I was not sure what to set it at and I did a search but didn't turn up anything 100% but what voltage should I set the power supply too? I just want to be sure I am doing it right, I did all my updates but had a little bit of a sketchy go at it.
I don't know if anyone has posted this before, but I wish I had known how much current is actually used during an update, because, had I known I probably would not have tried to take some shortcuts / skimp on the power supply.
Granted, 64A is on the high side, it hovers around 50A quite a bit, never above 70A that I saw and never below 40A. But lets say the average is 50A, that means that anything less than a 50A power supply and you're eating away at the 12V LVB Battery which is only 35Ah.
For example, if you do two Clore 20A in parallel (for 40A total), you're now using up 10A over what they can supply, so your 12V battery will (in theory) last about 3 hours (IF, big IF, it's in tip top shape and fully charged when you begin) before things start getting really sketchy.
The update I'm doing right now (IPMA module) took about 2.5 hrs and supposedly there are others that take even longer.
So yeah, having seen this I probably wouldn't recommend anyone using anything smaller than 65-75A
Hi I was just wondering because I was not sure what to set it at and I did a search but didn't turn up anything 100% but what voltage should I set the power supply too? I just want to be sure I am doing it right, I did all my updates but had a little bit of a sketchy go at it.
Just confirming with my experience, I had mine set for 13.5 and it never dropped below 13.2 even during the IPMA update. I was using the Clore PL6100.I did all available updates to my truck about 2 weeks ago using FDRS, both to my Lightning and F-150 ICE. The lightning makes a racket for some updates the ICE is a lot quieter.
I set the power supply voltage to 13.7V, during some of the updates the voltage reported in FDRS was as low at 13.2V but remained at 13.7V at the supply, this is just due to the IR drop (Voltage drop due to resistance and current) from power supply to truck measuring point but it means its pulling a lot of current!
I think setting the supply in or about 13.5V should be fine. Again assumes cables from power supply to battery are 2 or 3 gauge, which mine are.
Hey @Mike G I was just wondering if you heard anything about Powertrain Modules starting back up in FDRS. Just curious as I'm sure my truck needed one but of course couldn't do it right now due to the suspension. So I was just curious, and again thank you for all your awesome help.This just in:
....June is a bit further out than I expected the response to be though.....
Not as of this morning.Hey @Mike G I was just wondering if you heard anything about Powertrain Modules starting back up in FDRS. Just curious as I'm sure my truck needed one but of course couldn't do it right now due to the suspension. So I was just curious, and again thank you for all your awesome help.
Ford tells techs to set their powersupply to 13.6V. Just so everybody knows.I did all available updates to my truck about 2 weeks ago using FDRS, both to my Lightning and F-150 ICE. The lightning makes a racket for some updates the ICE is a lot quieter.
I set the power supply voltage to 13.7V, during some of the updates the voltage reported in FDRS was as low at 13.2V but remained at 13.7V at the supply, this is just due to the IR drop (Voltage drop due to resistance and current) from power supply to truck measuring point but it means its pulling a lot of current!
I think setting the supply in or about 13.5V should be fine. Again assumes cables from power supply to battery are 2 or 3 gauge, which mine are.
Did the DLS-90 come with the other anderson connector or did you have that on hand? For sure like your setup, just need to find the other half that you have on your power supply side (The DLS-90 comes tomorrow for me).It's 4, bit overkill since it'll never see 90-100A but it's what came on/with the connector / plug.
Spartan Power 4 AWG 8 Foot Battery Cable
https://a.co/d/8rlyPeD