ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[mr.Magoo]

Did the DLS-90 come with the other anderson connector or did you have that on hand? For sure like your setup, just need to find the other half that you have on your power supply side (The DLS-90 comes tomorrow for me).

It does not, so you'll have to order two cables.

The rubber booties doesn't come with the plugs either, so that's something you'll have to get as well. You could get away with just ordering one (load side) of those since only one connector (the one on the truck) will be exposed to the elements).
While load/source is more of a technicality I would still recommend getting the load bootie as it fits snug around the connector for better protection.

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[pkirby11]

A new versions of FDRS was released yesterday. I was hoping maybe it would address the BCM update issue but I'm beginning to think that it is acting the way Ford intended it too. Kind of a bummer but at least I can do all the other updates. And hey the update for the updates is available so might as well do that now.

 

[FastCote]

Trying to avoid shelling out a ton of money but still keep the LVB at safe levels. Does this look like a viable option for power?:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BMLZ3SP6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3U0J2BJFE26Z7&th=1

(Edit) there is a 60 amp version (currently unavailable) on Amazon.

 

[rugedraw]

Trying to avoid shelling out a ton of money but still keep the LVB at safe levels. Does this look like a viable option for power?:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BMLZ3SP6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3U0J2BJFE26Z7&th=1

(Edit) there is a 60 amp version (currently unavailable) on Amazon.

Unless I am missing something, that seems to be a battery charger; not sure if that has power supply mode. I'm sure the guys on here can help point you in the right direction, though.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Ford refreshed their SYNC revision worksheet recently, sure enough I have a new APIM update ready for me today. Thanks, @Mike G, for the lookup. I believe it is only for '23 models that got the most recent Gateway update. If you have the the most recent Gateway Update and a '23 it's worth a look.

 

[GDN]

Ford refreshed their SYNC revision worksheet recently, sure enough I have a new APIM update ready for me today. Thanks, @Mike G, for the lookup. I believe it is only for '23 models that got the most recent Gateway update. If you have the the most recent Gateway Update and a '23 it's worth a look.

It will be interesting to see what this brings and where it puts the '22's compared to the '23's. Lucky for what I had in 18 months for updates, but if they pull something here and leave the '22's behind for a while (they did this with the ICE trucks a couple years back) I'm not going to be real happy.

 

[Daragh]

Ford refreshed their SYNC revision worksheet recently, sure enough I have a new APIM update ready for me today. Thanks, @Mike G, for the lookup. I believe it is only for '23 models that got the most recent Gateway update. If you have the the most recent Gateway Update and a '23 it's worth a look.

I have a 23 that got a recent gateway update. Ran FDRS this morning and didn't see any available APIM update, BCM still shows due to the need for a user id.

What I did notice is the last sentence saying " A GVMS Warning exists which may result in FDRS not offering necessary apps. To remove ...." see capture below. You can see the listed modules have a green striped box, not a solid green one on the left!

Anybody else seeing this and if so how can it be resolved?

 

[bmwhitetx]

I have a 23 that got a recent gateway update. Ran FDRS this morning and didn't see any available APIM update, BCM still shows due to the need for a user id.

What I did notice is the last sentence saying " A GVMS Warning exists which may result in FDRS not offering necessary apps. To remove ...." see capture below. You can see the listed modules have a green striped box, not a solid green one on the left!

Anybody else seeing this and if so how can it be resolved?

Documented over in this thread and specifically this post.
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...-fdrs-temporarily-suspended.19409/post-397049

 

[GoodSam]

Sorry, have not seen much of the past in this thread, if this has been discussed before, but, for viewing diagnostics or settings or doing tests, how much better is FDRS than the Bezel Diagnostics, which has lots to show?

[to access on 15" screen?] Bezel Diagnostics. turn the radio to AM or FM press and hold volume down and arrow seek left at the same time

[or for my 22 XLT 312a 12" screen w buttons:] push steering wheel rightmost "go forward" (arrow seek right) button and also the Fast Forward button at the same time (of the audio system buttons under the 12" center screen) for ~10 seconds. Does a speaker test first for x seconds or so, then the Bezel Diagnostics access list shows up.)

Is there a listing of all the menu items available in Bezel Diagnostics?

 

[chillaban]

Sorry, have not seen much of the past in this thread, if this has been discussed before, but, for viewing diagnostics or settings or doing tests, how much better is FDRS than the Bezel Diagnostics, which has lots to show?

[or for my 22 XLT 312a 12" screen w buttons:] push steering wheel rightmost "go forward" (arrow seek right) button and also the Fast Forward button at the same time (of the audio system buttons under the 12" center screen) for ~10 seconds. Does a speaker test first for x seconds or so, then the Bezel Diagnostics access list shows up.)

Is there a listing of all the menu items available in Bezel Diagnostics?

most people don’t use FDRS as an extremely expensive diagnostics scanner or settings changer — Forscan is usually a more popular tool for that purpose and works with much cheaper cables too.

We mostly use it for updating firmware earlier than OTA offerings and for some tasks like recalibrating and installing specific modules, and bezel diagnostics can’t do that at all.

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

Sorry, have not seen much of the past in this thread…
Is there a listing of all the menu items available in Bezel Diagnostics?

This would be very useful to have.
Thanks for reminding us of this.

 

[dustintinsley]

What are the correct settings on the recommended battery charger? The PL3230 from the OP. Just want to make sure I have it setup correctly.

 

[ziptbm]

re: battery, i use the schumacher INC100. used it when doing DME flashes on BMWs and it works perfect for this. the problem with the Noco and others is it only puts out 1, 2, or 5 amps (some do 10 i think?). my schumacher will do 10+ regularly even without programming. it does up to 100a in "flash/reprogram" mode for this specific type of work.
once you brick your BMW's most expensive piece of electronics, you don't screw around with subpar maintainers anymore

EDIT: anyone in the austin, TX area that needs some help, feel free to come on by as well.

For those that have the INC100 - what mode do you use when running FDRS updates? Service or Flash Reprogram?

The specifications on their webpage indicates that "Output Current: Service/13.5V,0-70A,Boost/14.4V,0-70A,Flash/13-14.8V,0-70A cont,100A int" - so I'm curious what people who have this use.

 

[bmwhitetx]

What are the correct settings on the recommended battery charger? The PL3230 from the OP. Just want to make sure I have it setup correctly.

Power Supply mode - instructions in owners manual:

Upon making a proper battery connection (see Section F or G as applicable), plug AC power cord into an AC receptacle. All unit LEDs will light momentarily, then only the LEDs corresponding to charging settings should stay lit. The charger is now in Standby Mode. To activate the Power Supply mode, push the VOLTS button until the LED corresponding to Power Supply is lit. Note that this will disable all other controls and settings, such as battery type and charge rate settings. Press the START/STOP button to engage the Power Supply mode.

When the unit is operating in Power Supply mode, the display will show “PS” and the green Charging Complete LED will be lit. In this mode, the charger will supply steady power with a goal of maintaining steady system voltage at 14.1VDC, allowing the current supplied to the battery/system to vary as needed from 0-20 amps.

 

[Mike G]

What are the correct settings on the recommended battery charger? The PL3230 from the OP. Just want to make sure I have it setup correctly.

The manual says:

"Upon making a proper battery connection (see Section F or G as applicable), plug AC power cord into an AC receptacle. All unit LEDs will light momentarily, then only the LEDs corresponding to charging settings should stay lit. The charger is now in Standby Mode. To activate the Power Supply mode, push the VOLTS button until the LED corresponding to Power Supply is lit. Note that this will disable all other controls and settings, such as battery type and charge rate settings. Press the START/STOP button to engage the Power Supply mode.

When the unit is operating in Power Supply mode, the display will show “PS” and the green Charging Complete LED will be lit. In this mode, the charger will supply steady power with a goal of maintaining steady system voltage at 14.1VDC, allowing the current supplied to the battery/system to vary as needed from 0-20 amps. If there is an increase in system need, the charger will react to it and supply as much current, up to 20A, as needed to maintain system voltage. If system voltage drops below 13.2VDC, the amber Charging in Progress LED will light in addition to the green Charging Complete LED to alert you that the charger may not be keeping up with system demand.

Like battery charging, if at any time during Power Supply mode operation, you wish to stop the charger, you can push the START/STOP button to return the unit to Standby Mode."

When I was using my PL2320 I used to put a charge on the battery to get it up to at least 90% SOC before starting any programming. The PL2320 is good for anything that doesn't go longer than about 25 minutes on a GT. You can check your SOC between updates and get your 12V battery back up above 90% before the next round if you think it might dip too low while updating. If while watching the lower right corner of FDRS you ever see your voltage dropping close to 10.0V it's time to cancel and go get more battery, whether it's pulling up another vehicle alongside with jumper cables or some other alternative.

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