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MrLoganRoss

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Sorry “APIM”. And spoke to soon. When APIM finished, a new GWM popped up, so hopefully that’s the last. I need to update the Mache also before my 2 day license expires.
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ChrisCon

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You guys are fast.. I thought I would be breaking the news of the TRM update.. I did mine. It took 1 minute. I didn't even have a chance to plug in the battery tender. Can't imagine much changed due to the speed of the update.
 

duncanmaio

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Interesting. If it's just a config thing, then it can be done with FORScan.

@ziptbm The key is somewhere here. Right now, you are showing a 2 there. Maybe try 3 for stretched? Make sure you reboot the APIM after making the change. If it works, you save $50. If it doesn't, you can just put it back to what it was.

1723849008637-nc.jpg
Making this change in Forscan worked. Changed xxxx xxx* xx-- from "2" to "3".

I also lost "cameras at speed" and restored those settings as well - will check on the way home to see if that worked.
 

jhawkbear

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So I ordered a mongoose and the charger that was recommended in the original post. However, now that I'm reading some of these newer posts, everyone is saying that the power supply isn't good enough.
I'm still on 4.3.x, but now I'm scared to try updating anything if I have the wrong power supply.
Can someone give me a link to a budget one that I should get. Or am I good with the 20A one for now?
This truck and software has become the biggest headache and pain in the ass.
 
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Zprime29

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So I ordered a mongoose and the charger that was recommended in the original post. However, now that I'm reading some of these newer posts, everyone is saying that the power supply isn't good enough.
I'm still on 4.3.x, but now I'm scared to try updating anything if I have the wrong power supply.
Can someone give me a link to a budget one that I should get. Or am I good with the 20A one for now?
This truck and software has become the biggest headache and pain in the ass.
I'm nearly in your boat. My dealer is going to "look into it" when I go in on Sept 9th for 30k service. After that, assuming nothing done, I'll be getting a mongoose. I'm still exploring power supply options myself. Also still on the 4.X software.

20A supply can handle most, but not all of the updates. I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPB55NM which was recommended by someone earlier in the thread. It looks like a nice alternative, there are a few used ones for half off, very tempting.
 

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jhawkbear

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I'm nearly in your boat. My dealer is going to "look into it" when I go in on Sept 9th for 30k service. After that, assuming nothing done, I'll be getting a mongoose. I'm still exploring power supply options myself. Also still on the 4.X software.

20A supply can handle most, but not all of the updates. I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPB55NM which was recommended by someone earlier in the thread. It looks like a nice alternative, there are a few used ones for half off, very tempting.
That's not a bad deal. I think I might just use the 20A that I ordered, and if I see it dropping too low, I'll hook up to my wife's car with jumper cables.
I'm HOPING (but not hopeful) that if I can get a couple updates done through FDRS, then maybe the OTA process will pick back up again. My last OTA was in June 2023, so it's been 14 months.
 

Zprime29

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That's not a bad deal. I think I might just use the 20A that I ordered, and if I see it dropping too low, I'll hook up to my wife's car with jumper cables.
I'm HOPING (but not hopeful) that if I can get a couple updates done through FDRS, then maybe the OTA process will pick back up again. My last OTA was in June 2023, so it's been 14 months.
I think it's the IPM update that takes several hours and requires a beefier supply. It would be interesting to see if just updating a few jump starts the process again. We've somehow fallen through the safety net and Ford forgot we exist so running an update might put us back on the queue. I might ask the dealer just to push a single quick update if they don't find anything wrong.
 

pkirby11

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You, like the rest of us, are still waiting for a new gateway update to solve all of our powertrain problems. This is the one we've been waiting on since April or May?

That's why FSA 23B57 is still on hold, and that's why we don't have the new Sync (1122) like your Mach-E has now (because we need a gateway software update for that too)...and obviously we probably need the new gateway for BC 1.3 to get turned on.

We've got two weeks left in August at this point. Let's just hope they don't kick the can down the road again like they did back at the end of June.

PTS_28-Jun-24-1.png
Hey Mike, just wondering if Ford has kicked this can down the road yet? :D

Just wondering as again now there is close to a week left in August. Thanks!
 

Mike G

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Hey Mike, just wondering if Ford has kicked this can down the road yet? :D

Just wondering as again now there is close to a week left in August. Thanks!
Nothing's changed as of this morning.
Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS Lightning_GVMS_Blocks


But I'm sure they're doing their very best to fix this 4 month old problem by the end of this month.
 

jhawkbear

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I see alot of people talking about clearing the DTCs. But how exactly do I do that?
I'm sure it's something easy, but I don't want to just fiddle around with things that I know nothing about.
I did the IPMA update last night and got stuck in the configuration loop. And now when I run the configuration, it fails. And I have dozens of DTCs.
 

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majorgearhead

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So I ordered a mongoose and the charger that was recommended in the original post. However, now that I'm reading some of these newer posts, everyone is saying that the power supply isn't good enough.
I'm still on 4.3.x, but now I'm scared to try updating anything if I have the wrong power supply.
Can someone give me a link to a budget one that I should get. Or am I good with the 20A one for now?
This truck and software has become the biggest headache and pain in the ass.
I will say the one recommended in the beginning post is very insufficient for module programming. If you have any long-running module programs, then this will not supply enough current to tide the overall draw and you will dip dangerously into a low voltage state. This is a perfect power supply for ICE vehicles which don't run battery coolant pumps during updates, but as it stands our Lightnings can draw nearly 60A current during a module program, which means that even if you had two of the above, you would still be at a deficit.

I opted for: https://a.co/d/5EqYOjl

It has a normal 15A plug and can more than provide the current needed to do module programming (Peak 100A output at 13-14.8v selectable) sometimes peaking close to 60A. Way more expensive, but FDRS is not for the faint of heart.
 

Mike G

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I see alot of people talking about clearing the DTCs. But how exactly do I do that?
I'm sure it's something easy, but I don't want to just fiddle around with things that I know nothing about.
I did the IPMA update last night and got stuck in the configuration loop. And now when I run the configuration, it fails. And I have dozens of DTCs.

When you first start FDRS (with "Key on, Engine Off", AKA "accessory mode") you'll come to this screen. Before flipping over to see how many updates you have, first click the View CMDTCs button, and then when presented with the list, and after a brief review, just select the option to clear and retest. Do this before attempting any updates. Do this after doing an update to clear any errors resulting from FDRS telling other modules on the network to 'stop talking' while the previous update was getting programmed, and do this at the end after updating all modules to ensure you're leaving the vehicle in a 'clean green' state before disconnecting.

Doing a clear and retest between updating modules is particularly important because after FDRS says "Application Finished, click OK" and you're returned to the list of available updates, and you think you're ready to start the next one...the left side panel may be showing you all 'green' module tiles, when actually due to the intentional interruption of network communications many of those modules are actually in an error state (orange). So double-checking by doing a clear and retest before starting the next update will ensure you're once again starting off with a green board.
Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS CMDTC1

Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS CMDTC2

Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS CMDTC3

Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS CMDTC4
 

jhawkbear

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When you first start FDRS (with "Key on, Engine Off", AKA "accessory mode") you'll come to this screen. Before flipping over to see how many updates you have, first click the View CMDTCs button, and then when presented with the list, and after a brief review, just select the option to clear and retest. Do this before attempting any updates. Do this after doing an update to clear any errors resulting from FDRS telling other modules on the network to 'stop talking' while the previous update was getting programmed, and do this at the end after updating all modules to ensure you're leaving the vehicle in a 'clean green' state before disconnecting.

Doing a clear and retest between updating modules is particularly important because after FDRS says "Application Finished, click OK" and you're returned to the list of available updates, and you think you're ready to start the next one...the left side panel may be showing you all 'green' module tiles, when actually due to the intentional interruption of network communications many of those modules are actually in an error state (orange). So double-checking by doing a clear and retest before starting the next update will ensure you're once again starting off with a green board.
CMDTC1.png

CMDTC2.png

CMDTC3.png

CMDTC4.png
This is perfect!
Thank you!
 
 





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