Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[USA414]

FWIW I also did the IPMA update with two Clore 2320's and it was a nail-biter for the entire 2.5 hours as the voltage hovered around 9.1-9.8V the whole time. Never again.

I was pretty nervous seeing the voltage that low, and then my heart dropped when FDRS crashed roughly 2.5 hours in. I immediately purchased a 75 amp power supply with an adjustable voltage setting. After some research, I determined that I wanted to keep the LVB at 13.8v (AGM float), so I hooked everything up, initially started with the power supply set to 13.8v, and then took multimeter measurements from the jump points, LVB terminals, and also checking in FDRS. I landed on running the power supply at 14.1v, which is shown in FDRS as 13.6v, but I get a perfect 13.8v reading from my multimeter at the terminals of the LVB. Maybe a bit of an over index, but I never want to deal with that again.

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[PJnc284]

FWIW I also did the IPMA update with two Clore 2320's and it was a nail-biter for the entire 2.5 hours as the voltage hovered around 9.1-9.8V the whole time. Never again.

I had initially ordered two of the cl2320s but didn't even take them out of the boxes after reading some of the posts here about the truck pulling over 60 amps. Initiated a return on amazon and ordered a PowerMax 75amp. Only about $100 more than two cl2320s which was well worth not dealing with the puckering. Had it set to 13.8v and was pulling 55-58 amps for a solid 2 hours. Lowest voltage i saw was 12.4 for a minute or two.

 

[mattskr]

I immediately purchased a 75 amp power supply with an adjustable voltage setting.

I had initially ordered two of the cl2320s but didn't even take them out of the boxes after reading some of the posts here about the truck pulling over 60 amps. Initiated a return on amazon and ordered a PowerMax 75amp. Only about $100 more than two cl2320s which was well worth not dealing with the puckering. Had it set to 13.8v and was pulling 55-58 amps for a solid 2 hours. Lowest voltage i saw was 12.4 for a minute or two.

Are you guys talking about this: https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-75LK-Converter-Indicator-Compatible/dp/B01MT636SX

If so I'll order one.

 

[USA414]

Are you guys talking about this: https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-75LK-Converter-Indicator-Compatible/dp/B01MT636SX

If so I'll order one.

Pretty much, but this is the exact one I purchased with cables
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8MQQC

 

[PJnc284]

Pretty much, but this is the exact one I purchased with cables
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8MQQC

yeah that's the one I have. Best part is it works with a regular 15 amp outlet.

 

[USA414]

yeah that's the one I have. Best part is it works with a regular 15 amp outlet.

That's exactly why I got the 75 amp model as opposed to the 100 amp

 

[ChrisCon]

I guess it's all how you look at it, but if you need FDRS to apply these, then they are not consistent updates from Ford. They can queue them and put them out there all day long, but if they can't get them bundled and pushed to all trucks OTA, then they are useless and not considered consistent updates. There have only been a couple that made it OTA since earlier this year.

I agree . We shouldn't live in a world where I had to buy a laptop ( if you go back pages , I used move my desktop to my truck since I'm an Apple guy and that was my only PC ), pay $800 a year and then pay $500ish for a cable to have karaoke and icons. Ford is living in the dark ages due to the fact that they are out sourcing so many of the electronics that they live in middleware hell. Should have kept the Rivian alliance just to have the ECUs. It's sad .


I just updated to iOS 18.1 beta 6 on my all devices at the same time and it cost me $0 and they are all running the same software with a couple clicks . Ford should aim to emulate Apple, Rivian ,Tesla this way .

But the actual truck stuff of this truck and my last ice f150 and my raptor before that are close to perfect to the point where I'll put up with this nonsense and get excited over a driver side door module update that may make no material difference to me over the life of the truck.

Such is the life of an early adopter.

Edit: and now seriously considering buying the powermax posted above to possibly have a horn that makes a farting sound in the inevitable APIM update in 2026. Which will be announced with great fanfare and then delayed to 2027.

 

[Scorpio3d]

I agree . We shouldn't live in a world where I had to buy a laptop ( if you go back pages , I used move my desktop to my truck since I'm an Apple guy and that was my only PC ), pay $800 a year and then pay $500ish for a cable to have karaoke and icons. Ford is living in the dark ages due to the fact that they are out sourcing so many of the electronics that they live in middleware hell. Should have kept the Rivian alliance just to have the ECUs. It's sad .


I just updated to iOS 18.1 beta 6 on my all devices at the same time and it cost me $0 and they are all running the same software with a couple clicks . Ford should aim to emulate Apple, Rivian ,Tesla this way .

But the actual truck stuff of this truck and my last ice f150 and my raptor before that are close to perfect to the point where I'll put up with this nonsense and get excited over a driver side door module update that may make no material difference to me over the life of the truck.

Such is the life of an early adopter.

Ford does seem to be doing a better job rolling these out for most people based on the other threads I have seen about updates.
Those of us that have purchased what is needed to do the FDRS (or Forscan)updates on our own just want to be on the bleeding edge. These are not things that are required for our truck they are (mostly)just cool updates and we want them, now! So yes, we pay the price to be on the bleeding edge!

 

[ChrisCon]

Ford does seem to be doing a better job rolling these out for most people based on the other threads I have seen about updates.
Those of us that have purchased what is needed to do the FDRS (or Forscan)updates on our own just want to be on the bleeding edge. These are not things that are required for our truck they are (mostly)just cool updates and we want them, now! So yes, we pay the price to be on the bleeding edge!

Very true! Some people play golf or collect things they enjoy. My expensive hobby is having every single item in my house running beta or the latest gm software/firmware . I see you LG washer and dyer, silently judging me because I keep forcing this upon you .

 

[MrLoganRoss]

It’s a little extra, but never an issue with this power supply: https://a.co/d/0ERQRWL

 

[USA414]

It’s a little extra, but never an issue with this power supply: https://a.co/d/0ERQRWL

I was very close, but didn’t want to deal with always needing to feed the unit from a NEMA 5-20R, 20 amp outlet.

 

[PJnc284]

Schumacher has one that's 100 amps and think I read that it uses a regular 15 amp outlet. Almost went the route but figured 75amps should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756NVGHV/

 

[Jim Lewis]

Schumacher has one that's 100 amps and think I read that it uses a regular 15 amp outlet.

didn’t want to deal with always needing to feed the unit from a NEMA 5-20R, 20 amp outlet.

If it's safe to use a 100-amp Schumacher in a regular 15-amp outlet, it's safe to use the 100-amp Clore PL6100 in a 15-amp outlet, too, with a $7 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWWQX8G/

I have all 20-amp circuits, but it's common for builders in the U.S. to cut corners and put in only 15-amp outlets on 20-amp circuits, believing that most people aren't going to use 20-amp current-drawing devices (and won't be able to because they were only given 15-amp outlet plugs! ). https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...software-updates-using-fdrs.11029/post-404107

From the current draws reported for various updates on this forum, one is never going to come close to drawing 100 amps, so neither the Schumacher nor the Clore should burn down your house plugged into a 15-amp outlet, whether directly or via an adapter.

+1 for the pricey Clore PL6100. I have one and love it in my limited use of the device. It does have a few behavioral idiosyncrasies, though.

 

[shelnian]

If it's safe to use a 100-amp Schumacher in a regular 15-amp outlet, it's safe to use the 100-amp Clore PL6100 in a 15-amp outlet, too, with a $7 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWWQX8G/

I have all 20-amp circuits, but it's common for builders in the U.S. to cut corners and put in only 15-amp outlets on 20-amp circuits, believing that most people aren't going to use 20-amp current-drawing devices (and won't be able to because they were only given 15-amp outlet plugs! ). https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...software-updates-using-fdrs.11029/post-404107

From the current draws reported for various updates on this forum, one is never going to come close to drawing 100 amps, so neither the Schumacher nor the Clore should burn down your house plugged into a 15-amp outlet, whether directly or via an adapter.

+1 for the pricey Clore PL6100. I have one and love it in my limited use of the device. It does have a few behavioral idiosyncrasies, though.

I bought this power supply for $72 (used) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPB55NM and these https://www.amazon.com/30A-50A-Alligator-Automotive-Charging-Terminal/dp/B0B5XKRJPM
I set output to about 13.7 to 13.8V and the highest current draw I have witnessed was 45A on the PS current meter during an update. Lowest LVB voltage I witnessed on the FDRS screen was 12.4V for a few seconds during an update.
Didn't want this cheap PS crashing an update so I performed a burn-in by leaving the PS "ON" for a week and then charging an old 12V battery for 3 or 4 hours. Noted no PS abnormalities during Lightning and Mach-E updates that took about 6 or 7 hours combined. Updates included the power train module updates, on both, which I noted had the highest and longest current draw of all the modules updated. So with these and the VCM2 clone I bought for about $200 brought my total equipment cost to about $300 since I already had a laptop, extension cords, and USB drive.

 

[Robob]

I have the 100a Clore unit and I had an extra PSU power cord from one of my 1000w computer PSU. So I just used that power cable for the unit, I will never turn it up close to its maximum draw, nor do I use it for charging any batteries. It’s worked fine so far.
or you can buy a new cord like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRET6YE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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