Plug Will NOT Disengage From Ford Charge Station Pro

[rdr854]

Photo? Video would be even better.

Lots of photos below. I suspect the root cause is a combination of operator error on my part and a design flaw that allows the insertion of the top hook before the bottom of the plug is fully inserted. As a result, the bottom of the plug drops approximately 1/16" below the bottom edge of the hole for the plug. I tried using a thin straight-blade screwdriver to see if I could coax it into the hole and I could only get one side in at a time (and thus, no -joy!!).

Off to hunt for a Level 2 Charger that has air conditioning available.

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[rdr854]

By chance is this mounted outside subject dust accumulated under locking lever that could have jammed it, or a Prankster glued it?

It is mounted outside and fortunately, no vandalism.

 

[Green1]

The more I learn about the ford charge station pro, the happier I am that it's still sealed in the original shipping box and not in use on my wall. It seems that the ONLY situation where it makes sense to use it is if you paid the extra $10k+ to also do the full home backup. Otherwise almost any other L2 charger on the market seems like a better idea.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Lots of photos below. I suspect the root cause is a combination of operator error on my part and a design flaw that allows the insertion of the top hook before the bottom of the plug is fully inserted. As a result, the bottom of the plug drops approximately 1/16" below the bottom edge of the hole for the plug. I tried using a thin straight-blade screwdriver to see if I could coax it into the hole and I could only get one side in at a time (and thus, no -joy!!).

Lesson for the rest of us, load the lower half first or parallel with the latch, but NEVER latch first at a steep angle.

 

[rdr854]

Lesson for the rest of us, load the lower half first or parallel with the latch, but NEVER latch first at a steep angle.

And unfortunately, Ford customer service was no help. Warranty apparently does not cover a design flaw and no help offered for a replacement cord or installation. I’m going to talk to my dealership service director and see if there is anything he can help with.

I will also call the Siemens BEV folks (actually before I go the dealer route).

This is just very frustrating.

Sitting at the local CJDR dealership charging. Of course they wanted me to trade for a TRX. I told them I’d rather remain married.

 

[EdRudy]

You can come over to my house and top off if needed. I am all done charging for the day.

 

[RickLightning]

I suspect that Siemens might have a solution when they open on Monday.

I would never buy a Ford-branded non-vehicle product that I depend on for the very issue of SUPPORT. Ford isn't equipped to, and 3rd party isn't staffed to.

I assume you have depressed the button as much as it will go, while angling the bottom in tighter, and lifting up trying to get the top latch to release, right?

 

[chl]

Lots of photos below. I suspect the root cause is a combination of operator error on my part and a design flaw that allows the insertion of the top hook before the bottom of the plug is fully inserted. As a result, the bottom of the plug drops approximately 1/16" below the bottom edge of the hole for the plug. I tried using a thin straight-blade screwdriver to see if I could coax it into the hole and I could only get one side in at a time (and thus, no -joy!!).

Off to hunt for a Level 2 Charger that has air conditioning available.

I see what you mean, at an odd angle.

I would try to see if it could be sort of lifted up a bit WITHOUT pressing the button (which raises the top profile of the plug) and maybe backed out a tad, so the bottom edge of the plug can slide in.

WD40 might help (it is safe to use on plastic in case someone is going to suggest otherwise, and on electrical contacts).

My garage is a tight space so I couldn't squeeze by the CSP if I used the built-in handle holder cavity, so I just hang it over the top and have a separate plastic cover (from etsy) covering the monster CCS1 plug.

 

[RickLightning]

I would turn off the breaker before playing...

Have you tried a thin metal shoehorn (with the power off)?

 

[chl]

Lots of photos below. I suspect the root cause is a combination of operator error on my part and a design flaw that allows the insertion of the top hook before the bottom of the plug is fully inserted. As a result, the bottom of the plug drops approximately 1/16" below the bottom edge of the hole for the plug. I tried using a thin straight-blade screwdriver to see if I could coax it into the hole and I could only get one side in at a time (and thus, no -joy!!).

Off to hunt for a Level 2 Charger that has air conditioning available.

I see what you mean, at an odd angle.

I would try to see if it could be sort of lifted up a bit WITHOUT pressing the button (which raises the top profile of the plug) so the bottom edge of the plug can slide in.
WD40 might help (it is safe to use on most plastics in case someone is going to suggest otherwise, and on electrical contacts - not polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastics though or sensitive electronics). TURN OFF POWER BEFORE SPRAYING IT ON IN CASE SOME GETS INSIDE SOMEHOW. (It shouldn't since it is suppose to be a weather-proof cover.) Avoid getting it on any of the internal circuits!

EDIT: if you can get your hands on some wire lube, that would be even better - no chance of harming the rubber cord outer layer or any other insulated wires if you use wire lube instead of WD40.

My garage is a tight space so I couldn't squeeze by the CSP if I used the built-in handle holder cavity, so I just hang it over the top and have a separate plastic cover (from etsy) covering the monster CCS1 plug.

EDIT: I tried to get my handle in at that angle and get stuck, but it went in easily no matter what the attack angle was. From your first pic, it looks like the top of the handle button lever is up, like it didn't get past the latch plastic but is wedged between the top of the cavity and the latch plastic.

I could not get my plug to do that. It always went in at the bottom.

I don't see how the pivot arm part of the button could have gotten bent, seems pretty sturdy to me.

Here's a possible solution if all else fails - if you can remove the black cover which has the plug mounting cavity, you might be able to flex it a bit to aid in removing the plug.

Under the black cover is the wired circuit so must turn off power before proceeding further to be safe.

1) open/pop the breaker on the FCSP - probably a 100A breaker - should be labeled in your house breaker panel (or other wise disconnect power from the FCSP)
2) make sure the power is off - the light will go out.
3) get a T20 torx head bit.screwdriver with an extension
4) remove the white decorative cover with FORD on it as instructed in the installation manual - it pops off by "Using both hands, Place thumbs on inner black cover and fingers into the hand-pulls located on sides of the unit to unsnap and remove the decorative cover and place aside."
5) remove black structural cover by unscrewing the 9 Torx head screws located around the perimeter of the black structural cover which has the plug mount cavity in it.

Maybe then the plug can be wiggled out - the black cover might give a little more when removed.

Maybe Seimens will have another idea though.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Maybe you could remove all the fasteners on the plugg to free the lever from the handle base

KILL the POWER!!!!!

 

[rdr854]

I would turn off the breaker before playing...

Have you tried a thin metal shoehorn (with the power off)?

I would turn off the breaker before playing...

Have you tried a thin metal shoehorn (with the power off)?

I’ll have to see if I can find one and then flatten the curve for the foot

 

[rdr854]

You can come over to my house and top off if needed. I am all done charging for the day.

Thank you. I might just do that tomorrow if that works for you. Maybe Mission BBQ for lunch (have to ask the wives ).

 

[Henry Ford]

After looking at mine I'm saying use force, like a lot of force!

If it were me I'd try pushing it in first. Use your body weight, use a soft mallet on the bottom while using your body weight.

Next, pull! Back and forth, side to side. Use the mallet again.

I think it will come out. In my opinion the next most likely thing to happen is the plastic piece that holds it in breaks. I don't think that's a major issue though because you can just loop it over the charger and let it hang. That's what I do most of the time anyway.

 

[EdRudy]

You could also remove the white cover and disassemble the case. The screws are torx T20's. There are 9 of them around the edges.

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