I need info on home charging

[Heliian]

Rides smoother than almost any PU I have been in.

The rear independent suspension is a real game changer. Nobody really bothered with it in a full-size half ton before. Most trucks still use leaf springs from the 1900s.

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[averagerider]

Don't let those two CSP's shake you, they are routine for all 2022 and most 2023 trucks, once done there is only a slight possibility that battery modules are troublesome. That said, it's no guarantee that the truck you're considering might have a deeper problem.

Thanks. I understand. ar

 

[averagerider]

The rear independent suspension is a real game changer. Nobody really bothered with it in a full-size half ton before. Most trucks still use leaf springs from the 1900s.

FWIW, the Ram uses coil springs in the rear. The folks at Consumer Reports suggest that coil springs make for a better ride. The Lightning was better.

 

[Heliian]

the Ram uses coil springs in the rear

Still a solid axle, which has its own benefits but ride quality is not one of them.

I was skeptical about having independent all around on such a big vehicle but I'm hooked now.

 

[JRT]

1) call an electrician and say I need a NEMI 14-50 installed in my garage, that is the easiest approach and you can use many different plug in chargers.

2) seriously look at new and and ER, the SR range will not be close to advertised and any temps below 60 count on 30% reductions.

I moved up from a SR 2021 Mach-E and a 2014 Ram 1500 to my XLT ER and am happy with it. There are a few miracle m/kwh people on here, but don't count on it, most are getting 1.9 to 2.1 m/kwh.

 

[averagerider]

1) call an electrician and say I need a NEMI 14-50 installed in my garage, that is the easiest approach and you can use many different plug in chargers.

2) seriously look at new and and ER, the SR range will not be close to advertised and any temps below 60 count on 30% reductions.

I moved up from a SR 2021 Mach-E and a 2014 Ram 1500 to my XLT ER and am happy with it. There are a few miracle m/kwh people on here, but don't count on it, most are getting 1.9 to 2.1 m/kwh.

Thanks for your comments. I may still be in the market. Just has to be the right price, and avoid model year 2022.

 

[vic7780]

Thanks for your comments. I may still be in the market. Just has to be the right price, and avoid model year 2022.

why are you avoiding model year 2022?

 

[RickLightning]

why are you avoiding model year 2022?

Because he doesn't want all the features?

#Scales #Heated Steering #SecuritySystem #Parking

 

[Henry Ford]

why are you avoiding model year 2022?

Yeah, 2022 is the finest vintage of Lightning.

 

[Danface]

One thing to note, the amperage on the Ford Pro chargers that come with the XR's are adjustable so dial it down to setting #2 for now and this would give you an "upgrade path" later.

They're available on this forum for around $500 or so

 

[cdherman]

Just because you have an unused 30 amp breaker you still would need to run new wire to an EVSE. Using the existing 30 amp breaker only saves you about $10 over having to buy a 50 or 60 amp breaker. You still need to install new wiring to the device.

My recommendation for Future Proofing is to buy a Tesla Universal Wall connector and have it hard wired to 60 amps (48 max to the car). https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tesla-...er-up-to-48a-24-white/6557478.p?skuId=6557478 It has a Tesla and a J1772 plug so you can charge almost any EV. In the Future it looks like everyone will be using the Tesla connector so you are future proofed. The Tesla Wall Connector can be configured either as a 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 ,60 amp breaker circuit. It's a one time expense and there may be some Utility company help with the cost.

Charging at home will save you in operating cost over a gas truck. BUT Insurance will be higher so that may offset some of the gas cost savings.

Right now there are some good deals on 2023 Ford Lightnings with $5000-$7500 rebates, dealer discounts and tax credits. The 2024 models will come with a Heat Pump that will help in cold climates by reducing energy needed to heat the cabin. I live in Florida so that isn't an issue for me.

Once you go EV you will never want to go back to gas.

This is correct. J1772 and Tesla together are good future proofing. For home overnight charging 48A will be enough for a very very long time. See below why NOT to use the Ford EVSE.

One thing to note, the amperage on the Ford Pro chargers that come with the XR's are adjustable so dial it down to setting #2 for now and this would give you an "upgrade path" later.

They're available on this forum for around $500 or so

All true BUT BUT BUT.... Because the FCSP has the possible feature of home backup built in, the CCS style plug is used. This is a deal breaker. Why? Because all too soon in life, we will have friends/family/visitors or another vehicle. That CCS plug on the FCSP renders it UNUSEABLE in a standard J1772 vehicle, of which there are many.

I installed the FCSP for my brother. I happened to be driving my RAV4 Prime PHEV. At the end of the install I sort of ignorantly moved to plug in my RAV4 to test. Boom. Reality hit me. I had not grasped this. And do NOT suggest that J1772 is dead. Its not. CCS might be as a DC Fastcharging standard, but lots of J1772 will likley co-exist for a long long time. The FCSP is not a bargain, even at $500. Get the tesla or if you need cheaper, the Emporia is more affordable.

 

[Danface]

This is correct. J1772 and Tesla together are good future proofing. For home overnight charging 48A will be enough for a very very long time. See below why NOT to use the Ford EVSE.



All true BUT BUT BUT.... Because the FCSP has the possible feature of home backup built in, the CCS style plug is used. This is a deal breaker. Why? Because all too soon in life, we will have friends/family/visitors or another vehicle. That CCS plug on the FCSP renders it UNUSEABLE in a standard J1772 vehicle, of which there are many.

I installed the FCSP for my brother. I happened to be driving my RAV4 Prime PHEV. At the end of the install I sort of ignorantly moved to plug in my RAV4 to test. Boom. Reality hit me. I had not grasped this. And do NOT suggest that J1772 is dead. Its not. CCS might be as a DC Fastcharging standard, but lots of J1772 will likley co-exist for a long long time. The FCSP is not a bargain, even at $500. Get the tesla or if you need cheaper, the Emporia is more affordable.

Good point, I had thought of that. so one would need a CCS to J1772 adapter which appears to not exist maybe just take an oscillating tool to the lower part of the plug!!

 

[cdherman]

Good point, I had thought of that. so one would need a CCS to J1772 adapter which appears to not exist maybe just take an oscillating tool to the lower part of the plug!!

That's a very novel thought! I think first, one would want to kill the electricity to the EVSE and make sure the wires to the CCS (DC) plugs are disconnected. Judging by the installation manual, the wires from the CCS plug are connected to stuff inside that is isolated from the AC 240V stuff pretty completely.

But you are right -- in the stetting where only the J1772 is needed, cutting the CCS DC part off makes perfect sense.

The other thought I had was that there are cheap J1772 female to NACS (Tesla) adaptors and cheap NACS female to J1772 male adaptor. Put the two together and you effectively have a J1772 extension that would put the CCS DC stuff far enough away as to no longer interfere. Only problem, is that it might put some torque/leverage on the vehicle J1772 port because of the length and weight.

The idea of modifying the plug is a good one. I may do just that the next time I am at my brother's house. If I do so, I'll take pics. If that works, its a really effective way of obtaining a $500 80A capable charger..........

 

[Danface]

That's a very novel thought! I think first, one would want to kill the electricity to the EVSE and make sure the wires to the CCS (DC) plugs are disconnected. Judging by the installation manual, the wires from the CCS plug are connected to stuff inside that is isolated from the AC 240V stuff pretty completely.

But you are right -- in the stetting where only the J1772 is needed, cutting the CCS DC part off makes perfect sense.

The other thought I had was that there are cheap J1772 female to NACS (Tesla) adaptors and cheap NACS female to J1772 male adaptor. Put the two together and you effectively have a J1772 extension that would put the CCS DC stuff far enough away as to no longer interfere. Only problem, is that it might put some torque/leverage on the vehicle J1772 port because of the length and weight.

The idea of modifying the plug is a good one. I may do just that the next time I am at my brother's house. If I do so, I'll take pics. If that works, its a really effective way of obtaining a $500 80A capable charger..........

I would just flip the breaker on the charger and usese something "easy to wield" to cut off the legs around the DC section of the plug ("Artist" rendering below LOL )

Yeah, I suppose making sure nothing was on the DC side is a good idea!

Agreed on the CCS1 to NACS -> NACS to J1772 rig up but would go with something that would support 80 Amps and, like you said, not be too heavy to seat correctly. The advantage would be once could charge vehicles with NACS.

Prablably would fill the 2 DC holes with a good grade of silicone caulk too.

 

[hturnerfamily]

"I have a spare 30 amp breaker available in my garage."

as to your original question: don't make 'at home' charging harder than it really is... it's not.

A) the "30 amp breaker" you mention is not quite enough info, but I'll give you some basic ideas, for you, and for your electrician.
- having a 'spare' 30amp breaker can be sufficient, or it may NOT be sufficient, it depends on the TYPE of EVSE you purchase to charge your truck.
1) a simple 16-24amp 240v EVSE would work just fine from this 'spare breaker', and they are easily found on many websites. Pricing is not indicative of 'better'... just get one and go with it. All they do is allow Voltage to flow thru the EVSE module to your truck. Your truck doesn't decide how much to use, the EVSE does.
2) a more robust and common 240v EVSE is 30amps, like the Ford Mobile EVSE, or many, many found online. This, though, is going to require MORE than just a 30amp 240v breaker, since it will be providing 30 amps, and could therefore more easily trip the breaker, becoming a nuisance.
3) a great option, though, is a 240v ADJUSTABLE 30amp EVSE, which allows you to CHANGE the amperage to BELOW 30amps, such as 24amps, giving you the ability to use this at your HOME, with your 'spare' 30amp breaker, but the ability to dial it back up later, if you install a NEMA14-50, etc.

B) replacing the 'spare' breaker with a 50amp 240v set is not difficult, but your electrician needs to check to see if the WIRING already in place will handle 30amps from the EVSE. If not, then the decision is 'how much' and even more important, 'how difficult' will it be to replace that wiring with beefier 8awg or 6awg wiring.
- you don't HAVE to run 50amp wiring, such as 6awg, to a 50amp 240v outlet... 8awg is sufficient if it is for 30amps, and you note that on the outlet.
- 6awg wiring will handle even MORE than 50amps, but it is the lowest 'awg' to sufficiently meet that requirement. It is larger and harder to handle, and more costly, of course.


An electrician's job is to take care of your needs, and to stay within the boundaries of 'code', and local 'permitting', etc., so you can see that they will charge accordingly. Some of us have enough experience and DIY skills to take this on easily, but sometimes it's also due to how 'easy' or how 'hard' it might be. My own situation is such that it has been very easy for me to simply run 8awg or 6awg wiring from my main panel, where I have PLENTY of space and power, to wherever I need an Outlet. That is NOT the case for most folks, or it's not quite as easy.

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