Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[sstevetx]

I already had a single PL2320, so I originally went the route of buying a 2nd to do my updates. It worked great at first, but there were a few pucker moments later down the road when I got down in the 9v range on certain updates. Earlier this year I bought a PL6100 when it was on sale and I really like this model. I don't currently have a 20a outlet in my garage, so I bought a NEMA 14-50p adapter with 4x 5-20R outlets and a 20a breaker (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX8GC1QH). I just unplug my Emporia and plug this in when I do updates. Both ends of the adapter are ETL listed and the cable is UL listed. No guarantees, but it makes me feel better about it. I'll wire up a dedicated 20a at some point.

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[PJnc284]

Oof I didn't like seeing 12.4. I might've had an accident if I saw 9 pop up.

 

[ChrisCon]

Just a heads up -- If you have a TRM update you might want to hold off on it. I woke up this morning to "trailer brake module fault and blind spot fault. Fired up FDRS and it showed my truck couldn't communicate with the TRM module. Ran through the communication tests on FDRS and none worked. Disconnected LVB, reconnected and everything is fine. Since this happened overnight and has never happened before in the 2+years that I have had the truck, I have to assume it was TRM update I did on Sunday.

 

[Mike G]

Just a heads up -- If you have a TRM update you might want to hold off on it. I woke up this morning to "trailer brake module fault and blind spot fault. Fired up FDRS and it showed my truck couldn't communicate with the TRM module. Ran through the communication tests on FDRS and none worked. Disconnected LVB, reconnected and everything is fine. Since this happened overnight and has never happened before in the 2+years that I have had the truck, I have to assume it was TRM update I did on Sunday.

I just did the TRM and TCU this morning (along with re-trying the RFA with predictable results...).

I haven't gotten any warnings yet. But now that I have a 12V battery cutoff switch..if that becomes necessary then it's an easy fix.

 

[rugedraw]

I just did the TRM and TCU this morning (along with re-trying the RFA with predictable results...).

I haven't gotten any warnings yet. But now that I have a 12V battery cutoff switch..if that becomes necessary then it's an easy fix.

I've been thinking about doing this. I have a Naviks HDMI interface module running through my APIM which tends to get locked up in a funky state every now and then and the only way to kick its ass back into gear is disconnecting the battery.

I know there are plenty of ways to do this, but what did you to yours?

 

[shelnian]

I just did the TRM and TCU this morning (along with re-trying the RFA with predictable results...).

I haven't gotten any warnings yet. But now that I have a 12V battery cutoff switch..if that becomes necessary then it's an easy fix.

What cutoff switch did you install?

 

[Mike G]

This one.

I did have to pull the cable retainers out of the battery tray to give me some extra slack. The switch is also a bit offset as you can see to clear the battery access cover.

If I find a better one I'll be changing this one out. I'd like to find one where the input and output posts were closer together so that the cabling wasn't as displaced as it is now. But it does work fine the way it is.

 

[Zprime29]

Amazon currently has a coupon for $75 off any mongoose, expiry is 11 Oct 24

Price used to be $540, it went up a month or two ago. $500 probably as good as it's gonna get. Have they ever had a black Friday/cyber Monday sale on these?

 

[Mike G]

Amazon currently has a coupon for $75 off any mongoose, expiry is 11 Oct 24

Price used to be $540, it went up a month or two ago. $500 probably as good as it's gonna get. Have they ever had a black Friday/cyber Monday sale on these?

camelcamelcamel says the lowest they've ever tracked this on Amazon was $495 on Oct 30, 2021.

 

[sstevetx]

There was a Reddit post asking this 4 years ago and Mongoose said they don't do Black Friday deals. I don't know if that has changed since then. Looking at the Amazon price history they were $495 until mid 2022 when they jumped to $540 (https://3cmls.co/US/B097NHQ7ZW) . Looks like they jumped to $575 around a month ago. Not sure if that was in preparation for this $75 off sale or not. I paid $540 for mine about a year ago on Amazon

EDIT: Quickdraw Mike outcameled me

 

[shelnian]

This one.

I did have to pull the cable retainers out of the battery tray to give me some extra slack. The switch is also a bit offset as you can see to clear the battery access cover.

If I find a better one I'll be changing this one out. I'd like to find one where the input and output posts were closer together so that the cabling wasn't as displaced as it is now. But it does work fine the way it is.

Do you have to install the switch at the battery post or can you get away with disconnecting at the module input and installing something like this https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B0BZD1KDF8

 

[Mike G]

Do you have to install the switch at the battery post or can you get away with disconnecting at the module input and installing something like this https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B0BZD1KDF8

You could use that one and disconnect after the sensor I suppose. I don't know if it would make a difference electrically. Might be worth a try. These things thankfully don't cost a lot so experimenting is inexpensive, and I can always use the extras on stuff like my tractor or mower, etc.

 

[rugedraw]

I just ordered this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2K7CV69?psc=1&smid=A3C7OAME0RGX8V&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

Has a 20% coupon you can apply, so it cost me $40. It arrives Friday so I'll slap it on on Sunday and report back.

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